LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

How to turn the camshaft pulley to match timing mark on the belt?

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Old 07-09-11, 10:39 AM
  #46  
deanshark
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Yeah that tool will help you hold it when you torque the bolt, (I think it's something like 80 ft lbs) and spin it but you could adjust/spin the pulley with just the bolt if ya have to. You like new/special tools, don't ya? Why not, right? The problem and questions you have about the cams and valves and stuff is why I bought my 93, b/c it's a non-interference. I was reading more and what I read is as long as the crank is still at 50* ATDC you can move the cams counter clockwise to get the marks to line up, which sounds right to me. So the tension you feel on it should only be the spring compressing (like deanbrown3 said) But you should know that for sure before ya take my word on it. I know with my 93 when I spun the cam counter clockwise it took alot of force, and it was a springy force.
Old 07-09-11, 10:42 AM
  #47  
lex2001
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Don't turn the cams counter clockwise. There is some resistance turning them clockwise but that is ok. Just turn them clockwise until they are back on the timing marks. An awesome idea I saw in a youtube video was using zip ties to hold the belt onto the cams once you have it on the marks so it doesn't pop off when you put tension on it while trying to get it on the crankshaft.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7D_8u...feature=relmfu
Old 07-09-11, 11:18 AM
  #48  
deanbrown
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This is what my service manual says about turning it. but this may be if it has not moved too far.
Attached Thumbnails How to turn the camshaft pulley to match timing mark on the belt?-turnitcounterclockwide.jpg  
Old 07-09-11, 11:23 AM
  #49  
deanshark
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He's confused already, along with others, and now you're gonna show him a 3.0 V6 in an RX instead of a 4.0 LS400. It doesn't help with his problem at all. If you use the zip tie to hold the belt, be careful when tightening it b/c sliding the zip tie (to tighten) can cut into the timing belt. I saw a few more videos from that guy and man, I wouldn't let him within 1000 feet from my car.
Old 07-09-11, 11:26 AM
  #50  
deanbrown
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Originally Posted by lex2001
Don't turn the cams counter clockwise. There is some resistance turning them clockwise but that is ok. Just turn them clockwise until they are back on the timing marks. An awesome idea I saw in a youtube video was using zip ties to hold the belt onto the cams once you have it on the marks so it doesn't pop off when you put tension on it while trying to get it on the crankshaft.
Nice video BTW! That engine is obscenely clean compared to mine, which is totally covered every square mm with thick black ******.
Old 07-09-11, 11:30 AM
  #51  
deanbrown
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Originally Posted by deanshark
He's confused already, along with others, and now you're gonna show him a 3.0 V6 in an RX instead of a 4.0 LS400. It doesn't help with his problem at all. If you use the zip tie to hold the belt, be careful when tightening it b/c sliding the zip tie (to tighten) can cut into the timing belt. I saw a few more videos from that guy and man, I wouldn't let him within 1000 feet from my car.
Dean - couple of dumb questions here, to someone who seems to know what is what:

1. Do you need to drain the engine oil to change the crank seal?

2. Can you or can you not, on my 96, turn the cams clockwise any number of turns? Can you also turn them counterclockwise?

I'm just getting ready to do the 3 seals.
Old 07-09-11, 12:17 PM
  #52  
deanshark
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Originally Posted by deanbrown3
Dean - couple of dumb questions here, to someone who seems to know what is what:

1. Do you need to drain the engine oil to change the crank seal?

2. Can you or can you not, on my 96, turn the cams clockwise any number of turns? Can you also turn them counterclockwise?

I'm just getting ready to do the 3 seals.
Thanks for thinking I know things. I know alot, from working on cars for 30 yrs, but I don't know everything. I'll be the first to admit that. But anyway, I'm confused too about the cams going either way. I've never done a T-belt on an interference motor, like I said before, that's why I bought a 93. But I do know if the crank is set to the 50* ATDC there's a little play so if the cams do move, nothing happens. But Idk how far they can move, if it's just a little or all the way around. When I did my 3 seals I didn't drain the oil, nothing came out. I would think, as long as your car was sitting for a while, the oil would drain down into the oil pan.
Old 07-09-11, 12:22 PM
  #53  
dashan
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So, I can't wait for the SCH cam pulley holder to arrive.
I pried the spoke (is the name correct? learned a new word) of cam pulley wheel against the engine block with a big screw driver, tied the wheel with wires to the water inlet pipe to stop the spin of the cam pulley. I tied the timing belt to the cam pulley, then fight with the right cam pulley and the belt, and the timing belt was on.
CR mark to crank mark.
L line mark to left cam pulley mark.
R line mark to right cam pulley mark.
Will install the tensioner and rotate the engine by hand after a break and lunch (lesson learned).
Thanks every member for advice.
Attached Thumbnails How to turn the camshaft pulley to match timing mark on the belt?-1.jpg  

Last edited by dashan; 07-10-11 at 09:52 AM.
Old 07-09-11, 12:29 PM
  #54  
deanbrown
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dashan - I bought the OTC version of that cam tool, for $56, and the first time I used it one of the long pins pulled out of its thread and its fcuked. What I had to do was squeeze the tool behind the cam and then screw the pins in again from that side, so it was closer to the spokes. The tool I got can only use the long pins, since the spokes are too far inside the pulley. Hope your version is made better than mine!
Old 06-13-17, 09:13 AM
  #55  
scboat400
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I would love your help I'm in Phoenix having troubles crankshaft while trying to put on the timing belt. Are you on the Az Lexus club?
Old 06-16-17, 04:52 AM
  #56  
sha4000
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This thread is 6 years old. You should start a new thread asking for help.
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