PjLex

Yeah, this is my first timing belt job. I had a older Honda Crx, and had a timing belt bust while I was driving it. Totally screwed the head up. So, I think the experience is still ringing in my head. So I wanted to get the best parts I could. So maybe I spent more then I "technically" had to.
The two tutorials are amazing, thanks for the link.
I have seen Rockauto.com advertise in some major newspapers but have never ordered from them. Do you really order all your parts with them? Do you swear by their parts?
I'll see how the experience is with ordering parts from Sewell and the parts quality.
I might try to order from rockauto.com in the future just to test them out.

deanshark

I get most of my parts from rockauto, unless I need it the same day. I've never had a problem with them or the parts I bought from them. But I don't go for the cheapest parts, just the cheaper "good" parts. I've been doing this for over 30 years so I know what brand is what which makes it easier for me to order. I always go with the 2 day shipping and it's always come in within the 2 days. If you research the parts a little you'll know what's good, and more importantly, what's not good.

Sewell

iTrader: (9)

Preston - you're order is scheduled to leave today!

Darrel

PjLex

I have gotten down to just having the timing belt, water pump, timing belt plastic cover and the crank pulley on. I took some pictures for everyone to see. I noticed some oil in the LH timing belt cover and more underneath the timing belt on same side. Does it look like I have an oil leak to anyone? Or is this average? Again my car is 98 ls400 w/ 208,000 miles. The Rh timing belt cover is cleaner than the LH. Both have a light coating of grime.
Basically I am wondering if I Also need to repair some seal Before I replace the timing belt and water pump, etc? Or if it is an issue at all?
All advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Preston J.

PjLex

Here are some pictures of the LH timing belt cover, inside and outside. Please read previous question. I might have a possible oil leak within or around the LH timing belt cover. I want advice on it. Thanks, Preston

deanshark

Good job so far. I hate to be the one to tell you but it looks like the L cam seal is leaking, (from what I can see in the pic) b/c there is oil behind and under the pulley. I'm not there to see it close up but I don't think there's anywhere else the oil could be coming from. Also, it deffinately looks like the crankshaft seal is leaking but that's something should be changed anyway, it's easy enough. Unless that's the grease from the idler pulley. The pics are nice, post one of the crank seal area after you get the crank pulley and t-belt cover off. The cam seals are hard and a PITA b/c the cams need to be removed. You're lucky the idler pulleys didn't seize up with no grease in them. There shouldn't be any oil at all anywhere near the timing belt so you should fix whatever is leaking in that area b/c if you don't, we all know, it's just gonna get worse. No sense skimping now on a few bucks and a couple more hours labor. Read up alot on the cam seals, 2 or 3 times.

PjLex

Thanks for the quick response Mr. Shark, really appreciate it! Here are the updated photos. I am wondering if i should take off the water pump and the timing belt so I can see more? Also I wonder is it possible that it is leaking from the water pump and going down?

deanshark

Quick response is b/c I just sat down here to cool off. (A/C) It looks like some of that oil could be bearing grease from the water pump (which you're changing anyway) but the crank seal is leaking. That's way too much oil in there. It looks like there's a little water, or coolant, in there but that might just be from when you took off the upper hoses. Now that I see more I can see the difference between the L and R cams and I think even more the L cam seal is bad. The R is almost spotless, the way everything in there should look when you take off the timing covers.

PjLex

Yeah, I didn't fully drain the engine coolant so a lot of coolant ran down the front as I was disassembling. I am sure that is some of it, but not all of it.
You know of any good links to replacing the cam seals and crankshaft seals? It seems as if the crankshaft will be the easier of the two. How difficult is the Camshaft seal to replace?

Thanks for the advice shark man.


Preston J.

deanshark

The crankshaft seal is easy to get to. Ya just need to take off the timing gear with the same pulley puller you used for the crank pulley but it needs different size bolts for the gear. Then you just pry out the seal with a screwdriver or whatever, I used a paint can opener tool for mine. Don't scratch the shaft. Grease the inner part of the seal on installation. The cam seals are hard, Ya gotta take off the valve covers and then take out the cams. (which I've never done) Everything needs to be done a certain way and, of course, perfect. I get scared when it comes to the cams on an interference engine so that's one thing I wont give advice on. I haven't seen a tutorial on the cam seals, but I'm sure if you search the forum ya might find something or someone who has done it. Or check youtube. I think "billydpowe" has done them on one of his 99s.

randal

I am not convinced that the LH cam seal is leaking. The front crank seal does look like it is leaking. And it looks like some of the oil from the crank leak may have gotten on the belt and was thrown into other areas.

Take a flashlight and carefully examine the area right behind each cam spocket and see if the LH looks wet. If so, then you do need a new seal. If you do one, you might as well do the other?

Also, when you get the new belt and are ready to install, make sure you do not let the new belt get any oil, antifreeze or other contaminants on it. Make sure the floor(in case you accidentally drop it), hands and everything on the engine is very clean. Not surgical room clean but fairly clean and dry. If you get the new belt significantly contaminated while putting it on, you can plan to just throw it away and buy another. I am sure you do not want to do that. No undue tight bending/flexing of the new belt. Just a word of precaution.

deanshark

Nah I disagree randal, although it is possible that the oil from a leaking crank seal got on the belt and spit in other places but if that was the case then the R cam pulley would be covered with oil b/c of the way the belt spins. On the L cam you can see all the oil on the metal plate behind and below the cam pulley and also you can see oil coming out from under that plate on the bottom. I'd bet when that plate comes off there's gonna be a boat load of oil caked to the back of it. And if you look at everything all the oil is on the bottom, as if it's leaking downward. There's no oil above the pulley as if the valve cover was leaking in there, plus the timing cover has a gasket so nothing can get in. But yes, make sure it is leaking before just tearing it apart. Again, be very careful when you do it.

PjLex

okay, so I am working on replacing the Crankshaft oil seal. I ordered Felpro part kit number TCS 45916. Once I got the kit I was surprised to see what was in it. It says it has Oil pump "o" ring, Oil pump seal, and Camshaft seal. The camshaft seal is what surprised me. I thought I had to order the part separately.
Anyway I used a puller and got the crankshaft cogs out. And now just have to get the old crankshaft oil seal out. Any Idea about how to get it out best?
I am going to do the crankshaft oil seal first and then the camshaft oil seal.
THANKS for all the advice so far!! Preston

deanshark

Umm, wrong part, sorta. I've never done anything with the oil pump, which is what that "kit" is for. All you needed was the crankshaft seal, not the pump gasket and sealer, or O-ring. To take the crank seal out, like I mentioned before, use a screwdriver and pry it out but don't scratch the shaft. Or, there's a tool for it. The cheap one is about $8 from any parts strore.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

NO NO NO, not the CAM seals... just the crank seal