LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

1992 ls400 diamond white pearl

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Old 07-31-11, 12:53 AM
  #16  
emarknot
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but you are perfectly safe to drive your car.

dont be scared.youre safe.......just have it fixed as soon as you can.


and the preload will reguire the the chain gear rotated counter clockwise...and again...i cant be more specific till Monday

but you are fine to drive around.....just no racing and quarter mile run times

Last edited by emarknot; 07-31-11 at 12:57 AM. Reason: kalfassed spell.che,k
Old 07-31-11, 07:45 AM
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deanshark
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Originally Posted by dtLS400
He said he marked them from where they came off and put it back on the same way,
He (the mechanic) might have been talking about "marking" the shims for the valves. But putting the same shims in after the valve job will, almost deffinately, make it out of adjustment. If he didn't adjust them afterwards it will give you a tick.
On to other questions; How far did you drive the car after it was completely out of coolant? You said "it cooled for a few hours and then drove home and added coolant the next day". Did the power steering fluid leak onto your alternator? (common problem) If so, you might have problems in the future with that. Welcome to the wonderful world of Lexus.

emarknot; customers and noises 1/8" grooves in both front rotors and customer says "It just started sqeaking yesterday" Yeah, right.
Old 07-31-11, 08:35 AM
  #18  
dtLS400
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Thanks for the input infamous deanshark.

About the coolant, it was a 30 mile drive to my destination, about 3/4 the way I noticed the temp gauge pegged in the red.( doin about 90+) slowed her down and finished got to where was going. I let it sit for 4-5 hours, finally drive it back home stopping everytime the gauge read hot, took me about an hour o two hours to get home that way, i pulled out thermostat and checked it if it failed but no. I put water and held the rpms at 1000, for about a minute of holding it a constant spray of water would escape trhrough tr overflow.
Old 07-31-11, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by dtLS400
Thanks for the input infamous deanshark.

About the coolant, it was a 30 mile drive to my destination, about 3/4 the way I noticed the temp gauge pegged in the red.( doin about 90+) slowed her down and finished got to where was going. I let it sit for 4-5 hours, finally drive it back home stopping everytime the gauge read hot, took me about an hour o two hours to get home that way, i pulled out thermostat and checked it if it failed but no. I put water and held the rpms at 1000, for about a minute of holding it a constant spray of water would escape trhrough tr overflow.


1/8 groove? oh...thats nothing.........had a guy once....true story...brought in a car for a grind that "just started yesterday"
pull the wheels, front rotor surfaces are fine, l/f inner surface fine......r/f inner surface....wudvdschalkshdbrianabc !!!!!!!!! literally down to the vanes !!!!

just started my a-- ! then the guy had a problem with needing pads,rotors and calipers.
and really had a coniption fit when he HAD to sign a liability waiver so he could drive the car away...

some people scare me.

sorry for the hi-jack

Last edited by emarknot; 07-31-11 at 08:46 AM. Reason: spelling
Old 07-31-11, 08:50 AM
  #20  
deanshark
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Originally Posted by dtLS400
Thanks for the input infamous deanshark.

About the coolant, it was a 30 mile drive to my destination, about 3/4 the way I noticed the temp gauge pegged in the red.( doin about 90+) slowed her down and finished got to where was going. I let it sit for 4-5 hours, finally drive it back home stopping everytime the gauge read hot, took me about an hour o two hours to get home that way, i pulled out thermostat and checked it if it failed but no. I put water and held the rpms at 1000, for about a minute of holding it a constant spray of water would escape trhrough tr overflow.
Are you sure you didn't warp the heads with the hot, cold, hot, cold? If you didn't warp them you are damn lucky dude.
Old 08-01-11, 09:52 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by emarknot
cam preload isnt a markable issue. its a separate gear, on the cam, that drives a chain to the secondary cam.

and by that I mean, we have a 4 cam motor..but its not a true 4 cam motor.

its a master cam, that drives the secondary cam, by a "gear" on the primary cam. the primary cam is the only one with a gear, if you were to do a timing belt, you would have only 2 cam pulleys to contend with. so why 2 cam pulleys on a 4 cam motor?

because again...just trying to sink it in.......the cam that has a t-belt pulley, is the primary cam...there is a chain that runs the secondary cam.....secondary meaning a cam with no t-belt pulley...............and if the primary cam gear isnt preloded properly,the secondary cam is out of wack...thus being your tick.

in.general, its all out of wack, but the preload gear keeps it all together.
as lomg as the secondary cam is in place, ONLY the primary cam needs to be removed,preload the gear,re-installed......all should be good.


it will be monday before I can get any specs

sorry to sound confusing
emarknot thanks,

i get what you're saying, when i took off the Leftside valve cover after removing the bolts that held the cams down i was able to pull off the second/smaller of the two cams. the second cam slid right off as if it were only held there by pressure.(i marked its position before i removed). i stopped there when i saw that the primary cam couldnt be removed as easy, it was on the belt...(no ****).. i put everything back the way it came out and started her .. no ticking.. this way before i had my mechanic work on it
Old 08-01-11, 09:58 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by deanshark
Are you sure you didn't warp the heads with the hot, cold, hot, cold? If you didn't warp them you are damn lucky dude.
heads arent warped, i dont think. no symptoms of warped heads immediately. ive been driving her around and its been months...?
Old 08-01-11, 01:18 PM
  #23  
emarknot
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so you fixed it?
Old 08-01-11, 02:10 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by emarknot
so you fixed it?
i did all that before i took it to the shop and had it worked on
Old 08-01-11, 04:19 PM
  #25  
emarknot
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ok.i was like.....huh?.......for a second there
Old 08-01-11, 05:45 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by emarknot
ok.i was like.....huh?.......for a second there
So my mechanic must have not preloaded the cam and make sure the valve clearances were up to spec then...
Old 08-01-11, 06:59 PM
  #27  
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seems like it. or as deanshark suggested, the job was done incorrectly.

but not everybody knows about the preload issue.

knew a tech....did valve stem seals on a 3sfe engine and it was ticking afterwards.
I said.'you preload the primary cam?

he was like wtf? are you dumb?
his friend was complaing more and more, so he made some calls.

sure enough, it was ticking because he did not preload the cam gear.


pretty common thing .
Old 08-08-11, 08:45 AM
  #28  
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I spoke to the mechanic that did the work on my ls and he said that he did preload the cam, the ticking he said was the shims not up to spec, (clearance was off). My question is how bad is the ticking hurting the car. To me, it makes my car sound like a diesel.
Old 08-08-11, 11:59 AM
  #29  
emarknot
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well, since he says the cam gear was preloaded, and he knows its the valve shims, he needs to re-do the job. and I cannot believe he gave you the car back with the job improperly completed.
not doubting you, jut cannot believe he would do something like that.

gas consuption and performance is certainly affected..

actually, I just dont really know what to say at this point. he didnt do it right the first, so having him re-do.....probably a dumb idea.

unless im missing something
Old 08-08-11, 12:02 PM
  #30  
emarknot
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I still want to say its the preload.

if "knows" what the tick is, did he really preload the cam gear?

I just talked to a buddy of mine, and he feels the same way


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