deanshark

x98LS400x; The video I posted wasn't to show any marks or anything, it's not even an LS. I just wanted to show the "ziptie" trick to hold the belt tight.
The link that 3UZFTE posted is perfect, it shows where the marks are supposed to be. It also shows (in steps #5 and #6) the plug connector which you had unplugged. Like I said before "It's the Camshaft sensor plug connector".
I think you might be confusing some people when you say "I pull the plug wires from drivers side and there's no difference" B/c most people would pull the wire off from the spark plug side, not the distributor side. If it was running right before you did the T-belt and not now then it's deffinately something you did putting it back together. Changing parts, even if they should have been changed, isn't gonna make one bit of difference for this new problem, especially the fuel filter. I would almost guarantee that you are one tooth off on the drivers side cam pulley b/c there was no difference if the cam sensor was plugged in or not and you have no spark at the drivers side distributor. Your best bet would be to use a timing light to see if the timing is off and then you'll know if you have to reset the timing. It's easier then checking the marks b/c you already said it was right and then said it was wrong. Good luck, you'll get it soon.

deanshark

How the hell will that eliminate the tensioning issues? If you set the crank 10* After Top Dead Center then the cams will also be 10* ATDC and the timing marks wont line up which will just confuse him some more. (It will still have the same tension that it did) If his timing is off a tooth now then he's already having trouble with the marks so if it's 10* ATDC it will be about 6 teeth different. His head would be spinning trying to figure out your method that makes no sence.
1killerls; Do it right, set the timing at TDC. Just use all the tutorials you can find for reference. Use the link that 3UZFTE posted.

1killerls

just bought a inductive timing light, it definitely was like 10 degrees off....guess this guy gets to take the belt off again. is 10 degrees about a tooth off?

1killerls

before i redo it.

deanshark

Base timing on the LS is 8-12* Before Top Dead Center, so if it's at 10* BTDC then your timing is right. Plus all your marks are lined up right. So it's gotta be something else. If you take the coil wire off the distributor (drivers side) and hold it a bit away from the valve cover and crank the engine, do you get a spark from the coil wire? For safety purposes take the other coil wire off the other distributor so the car doesn't start. If there's no spark then your coil is bad. If you have spark then you should check the resistence on the cam position sensor with an ohm meter. The specs are;
Cold 835-1400 Ohms
Hot 1060-1645 Ohms

Wait a minute here, I just watched that video clip, it seems to be ok to me. Also, after plugging in the cam sensor connector are you still not getting spark from the drivers side distributor or are we just wasting our time here trying to think why it's not sparking?

1killerls

there is spark, ive been shocked enough. so my timing is legit? I will check my cam sensor.

deanshark

Yes, your timing is right. So you have spark from the coil into the distributor, where does the spark disappear? Is your rotor put on backwards? (some guys have put them on 180* off) Do you have spark at the plugs? (very small spark or none) If you pull the plug wire off the plug, do you have spark from the plug wires? Use a spare spark plug to check for spark from the wire. I just don't understand how the hell your cars RPM can get up like that if it's only running on 4 cylinders.

1killerls

god i feel like such an idiot. i was wondering why i was getting spark put it wasnt affecting the motor....my driver side rotor was 180 degrees off....its truly a rookie mistake. I appreciate everyone help. This forum is truly a great forum.

fluxedup

How the hell will that eliminate the tensioning issues? If you set the crank 10* After Top Dead Center then the cams will also be 10* ATDC and the timing marks wont line up which will just confuse him some more. (It will still have the same tension that it did) If his timing is off a tooth now then he's alread


since when is 10 degrees advanced occuring after top dead center? When all 3 marks on the belt are lined up and all timing marks are dead on, as the belt is rotated and comes under tension the 2nd cam will end up 1 tooth off . try it and see what happens. if you start with the crank pulley advanced they will all line up when the engine has been rotated through 360 degrees and the belt is fully tensioned.
If you disagree, try it and you will see.

This worked using a Gates belt.

1killerls

Thanks guys i fixed it. My rotor was turn the oppoisite way on the driver side. One i flipped it, it was back to 100%

1killerls

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz6EIfO4lCw after the flip

before the flip

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBXCZp8E4ho

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

good to see the problem resolved

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

sounds....quiet lol.

deanshark

Glad ya got it done. I was thinking that at first but then I remembered with mine (both times) they have grooves and notches so they didn't go in backwards. But I guess not all of them do, that's why I did just mention it, just incase. Don't feel bad about it, lots of people have done it. **it happens.

fluxedup; Not all belts have the markings on them, so any amount of moving the crank mark would screw up a non-proffesional. (without the belt marks) It just seems like common sence when installing the new belt start by putting on crank, then L cam, and with the R cam you need to rotate it clockwise about a half tooth then put on belt, and let it spring back to the timing mark. That takes up the tension and you're not one tooth off of the timing mark on the pulley. You'll be able to see if the timing marks on the engine and pulleys don't line up as soon as you put the belt on.
I still don't get what you're saying about how to turn the crank advanced 10* and everything will line up, but maybe with ALL the belts I've done I did them ALL wrong but never had one problem. If you line everything up correctly, and install the belt correctly, everything will be correct. Right?
But hey, everybody has thier own way of doing things, even if they don't make sence to other people. As long as they work for you.

x98LS400x

deanshark, I believe that fluxedup is saying that when you have everything lined up perfectly it's difficult to get the belt on right due to the tension issue, but if you turn the crank a bit the belt won't have to be so tight. Once the belt is in place putting the zip ties on so it doesn't move at all you can turn the crank back to mark and the belt should be nice and tight and the timing should be right.

It makes sense to me but describing it so that it's clear seems to be a bit difficult.

In any case the problem is solved.

I just bought my 98 LS 400 yesterday so I guess I'll be checking in here for a while.