ezsls400

i think the mechanic saw dollr signs but after i grilled him a lil bit about changing the t belt for nothing if thee engine was shot, he said "just put the belt on correctly and u'll be fine." so i'm doin that now. i got the tutorial from lexls.com, that should suffice rite guys? i just got my water pump done so can i still use the same one??

deanshark

I had to redo my T-belt after only 14K miles b/c it jumped and the only thing I didn't change was the water pump, so I would say yes use the same WP if it's recently new. If you had the WP done recently why didn't you change the T-belt and everything else while it was off? If all you need to do is reset the timing, and you're not changing ALL the parts that you should, (I don't know why you wouldn't) there is a way to do it w/o taking off everything. But with your lack of mechanics skills, (nothing wrong with that) I don't think you would be able to pull it off without making it worse. Follow the DIY b/c it's in writing and with pics and change all the parts you are supposed to and you should be all set. I just still don't understand why nothing but the water pump was changed last time.

ezsls400

dude said he didnt mess with the water pump. the t belt was done about 20k ago, so the evrything was done then. i still believe the water pump is good...the timing belt was tore at the spot it jumped.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

consider for a moment WHY it would tear if the t-belt was done 20k miles ago.....

if the water pump and idler pullies weren't changed they are prolly due.

if you keep trying to cheap out so adamantly against all our advice don't be surprised when your "oh ****" thread goes unanswered....

deanshark

Why are my posts longer then everyone elses? aggrivation?
So now you're saying the WP wasn't changed but the belt was? You need to change the WP and everything else involved. Take our advice and don't cheap out now, you'll pay for it in the near future. The problem is something other then the belt itself, like the WP, tensioner, idlers, cam and crank seals. When mine jumped (after only 14K miles) it was 1 of 2 things, my cam seals leaked and got oil on the belt or, the tensioner was bad with not enough tension. Or both combined.
My opinion at this point; bring it to a shop, a different shop, and have them check to see if the engine got messed up before you put any more money into it. Why change everything if it's not gonna run afterwards? If it's not messed up then have them do the T-belt with ALL the components involved. The cheapest way would be to find a shop that will do "labor only" and buy the "Gates" T-belt kit from rockauto for $181 and have the shop do it, or have someone with you that knows how to do it. You also need to change the cam and crank seals. (less then $15) Obviously you don't have the skills to do it alone. Like I said, "nothing wrong with that" but maybe you should quit while you're ahead. (or not too far behind) The thing that makes me say this is; You said "i broke down the top part of the engine to where i can see the top of the timing belt. how would i know that it slipped?" And after I explained to you how (5 minutes of labor spinning crankshaft) you brought it to the shop.

python

iTrader: (4)

hmmmmmm...