SWEETSOUND2001

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How did the car feel with 5psi?

Lvangundy

NICE

How does it feel??

healerhand

Gang,

Finally i got the Apexi SAFC working properly. The tech who hooked it up used FLAP ECU diagram. LS uses Karman ECU. After tunning for two days by myself. The car runs pretty good. I am seeing about 5 psi at around 2.5k. I think the actuators are set up to open at 5 psi. The car hesistiated for a while and after couple days of playing around with the SAFC its running alot better now.

I will take my car in to upgrade the fuel system. ie. Walbro 255 l/h, Aeromotive Universal fuel regulator, 440 or 550 cc RC Engineering Injectors (hold and peak), FMU, MSD DIS 4 and tunning.

I would like to run 15 psi with alcohol/water injection. I have some new pictures that i will post in a few days.

As we speak, my car is in the shop for full 3" exhuast with Mirror finished Magnaflow muffer. No cat or resonator. Jus DP and Muffler.

david

v8huntr

hey man

how are you?

sounds like your car is getting together. do you have timing retard? safc is very easy unit to tune but it doesn't control timing. i would think twice about 15psi even with water or alcohol injection. aeromotive FPR is very good unit and it's also universal. don't go too big on injectors because you might hvae hard time controlling them just with safc. wish you luck on tuning.

p.s
are you going to make this in kit form? how much?

healerhand

Hello V8,

I will be using MSD DIS-4 for timing retardation. The beside increase ignition, it also control timing. I think 550cc will be too big, 440 cc would be fine.

Kit form? Not sure, but all the bugs work out, it might happen. I hate to sell someone a kit that is not working properly.

Got my car back just now. 2 3" straight mandrel bend pipes with Magnaflow SS 3" muffler. Its louder than stock, but not that much. It has a nice racy tone to it, but as loud as my mustang. Its not cheap. Custom job was $600.

v8huntr

hi

how is your fuel system coming together? whenever you are ready i can have your car tuned. fyi i would go with little bigger injectors this way you have extra room for more hp in future. plus you don't want to run them at close to 100% duty cycle. just give me a call whenever you are ready to tune your car.

chris

ps
i have installed NOS with propane system in my car and man it's fast. i'll be retarding the timing in my car soon. tuning is fun...

SC300T

So I guess the oil buring issue with the turbos has been resolved?
Looks like the project is going well for you... Good Luck. IMO 440cc injectors are plenty for that power level. The 2JZ guys run 440s (6) up to 450rwhp. Having 8 440s should give you enough supply for a bit more than that.

healerhand

Hell Chris and Scott,

The oil issue is not solve yet. I got a restrictor valve and i also installed a bypass line back to the oil pan, the turbos still smoking. I am waiting for a pair of 1/8" to 4 -AN adapter with .065" opening. After I install the set of adapter and the turbos still smoke, i will need to redo my oil catch can system.

The turbos are low already and i hate to install a oil catch can below the turbos. I will try all means to make the oil system work without the catch can.

As for tuning, chris you are the man. I called Racers' Group and spoke to someone else other than Tony. They are located in Sonoma which is about few hours north of San Fransisco. That mean its about 10-11 hours drive. Do u know any place closer in Southern Cali?

v8huntr

11hours...wow i didn't know shop was that far from you. i'm sure i could locate another shop to install daztek but i feel lot more comfortable if you could leave your car to tony. i could do everything but i'm in east coast. i know it's long drive but tony is very good tuner.

healerhand

The oil problem is solved. I got two .065" restrictors along with oil bypass line. The turbos doesnt smoke anymore. I also got a breather valve/filter for the crank pressure release.

The car runs and boost up to 5 psi. The car is NOT running perfect yet. It has a long way to go. I just hope Chris would much closer to me. Racers' Group is far too. If i drop my car off to RG, then i have to fly back until the car is done.

Last weekend i drove my car to San Diego which is about 2 hours drive during very heavy rain. The turbos and K&N filters were very wet, i experience no problem at all. This my conclusion. The car is capable driving in VERY HEAVY RAIN, but i just dont drive over water greater than 4 inches.

JBrady

David, I have been thinking on your problem. I encourage you to re-clock the turbos so that the oil inlet is straight on top and the drain is straight on the bottom. This will maximize the turbos internal flow. The flat flange face oil drain on the bottom of the center section should not be the lowest point. The compressor housing is probably the lowest with the turbine housing next. The problem appears to be that your current thick flange with the 90 degree AN fitting is TOO bulky and becomes the lowest point if you clock the turbos correctly.

I suggest you fabricate compact drain/sumps. Cut two 2"x3" (estimated) rectanges from 1/8" steel plate. In one drill holes for attachment to the turbo drain and a matching hole for the drain opening with the 3" length perpendicular to the turbo shaft. Make the drain opening as large or even slightly larger than the turbos opening. Select the proper size allen bolt for the attachment holes and select a slightly larger diameter ID steel tube and weld short sections, say 0.625", to the flange so that the allen bolts will recess inside each.

Take the other rectangle and drill matching holes for the attachment flange but of a diameter that matches the OD of the short tubes. Use this to fabricate a steel box around the flange and bolt tube openings that is as large as you can for the area you have keeping the assembly size when attached to the turbos so that it will NOT be the lowest point. I am imagining a 2"x3"x0.75" box with one side being the flange to the turbo and the other having 2 small sealed openings through which you insert the attaching allen bolts. On one end of this box you weld a AN fitting to attached to your pump drain hose.

If this is not understandable I will try to draw a diagram and post it. Keep in mind that this is only a concept and the actual dimensions need to be measured for the available space of the turbo and its center section. The idea of course is to create a open area or "sump" for the drain oil to return from its foamy state to a liquid state without impeeding flow or compromising ground clearance.

JBrady

Here is a quick diagram.

healerhand

I was suggested by friends to make a thin (1" thick) oil sump. John, would please post some drawing? Remember, this is a prototype. Mistakes will and have been made. Suggestions and ideas are welcome.

healerhand

I have this oil sump made with two half boxes. They were welded together with 6 AN inlet and 8 AN outlet fittings . The problem with this sump is that its too thick. Its about 2.5" thick. In order for the turbos to drain properly, its has to be placed under the turbos.

JBrady

David, did you understand my drawing? Your sump would connect to the existing drain configuration which may be too bulky and become the lowest point when you properly clock the turbos. Mine would bolt directly to the turbo and be anywhere from 3/4 to 1" thick. The drain plug would be welded to one of the ends and your hose attached to it.

After thinking about it... a slight mod internally to my design would make for a better purging flow. Inside the box, aprox 1/4" from the AN fitting point, place a baffle that goes accross the box leaving apx 1/8" gap to the floor of the box. This would cause the suction of the pump to draw oil from the bottom and not just air and oil. Should make the box work very well. The oil coming out of the turbo would be able to spread out and return to liquid form and not impede the drain and the pump could be drawing this from the shallow slot formed inside by the baffle.

See this drawing. Ask or call me if you have any questions.