midwest2

What is the trick to getting the bolt out of the bushing end of the strut bar? I have the nut off but the bolt is siezed inside the bushing. Anyone ever have this problem?

midwest2

As I contemplate this over pizza and a beer, I'm thinking a sawzall and new bolts are in my future.

radiokilla

The strut bar or the sway bar? Strut bar is in the engine bay and connects the shock towers together. The sway bar would be underneath your car.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

you're talking about a strut tower bar.

believe the OP is referring to the Strut Rod (bar) that is basically a caster arm.

OP you need to put the year of your car in the title or in your post, and be more clear about what you're talking about.

i've always used some PB blaster a punch and a mallet.

midwest2

Sorry I wasnt more clear although I have seen this strut rod called many things. I don't believe a "strut bar" connecting shock towers has any bushings??

Anyway, I have a 96 LS400. The bolts are stuck in the bushing in the strut rod bar (under the car, up front, 1 per side with removable bushings) I have banged the hell out of it to no avail.

deanshark

What if you tried to use a C clamp on the strut "bar" bolt to try and squeeze it out. Same concept as if you're compressing a brake caliper. Whatever you do, don't ruin the threads on the end of the bolt or you'll be buying a new one anyway. Soak it with PB Blaster and let it sit for a while and then soak it again, then try banging it out with a punch and hammer. I don't see anyway of cutting the bolt without screwing up the bar itself. Or, soak it with PB and use a breaker bar to try and twist the bolt. That way might twist the whole bushing to come out and then you can just cut the bushing off the bolt.

midwest2

I have been using wd40 instead of pb blaster. I will go get some of that. I have used a breaker bar on it but can only get about 1/4 turn in either direction before the tension in the rubber bushing stops the bolt. It is really siezed in, and is probably a symptom of midwest winters where this car has lived.

I threaded the nut back on the end of the bolt and banged it enough with a small sledge hammer that the nut is getting deformed----it's stuck that good.

When I looked I believe there is room to get a sawzal blade on the bolt without hurting anything. Hopefully the local dealer has replacement bolts in stock.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

if you can turn it at all it's not seized, it's pinned. take a (small) bottle jack or pry bar and relieve some of the tension on the bolt by jacking the spindle up ever so slightly.

then turn the bolt out.

and replace that damaged nut.

deanshark

Yeah PB Blaster is way better then WD40. That's a $15 bolt from the dealer. If you were to use a sawzal on it you would have to cut both sides of the bolt but you're not gonna be able to cut the head off the bolt b/c the blade wont get in there. And even if it does without screwing up the strut bar, the bolt wont be cut far enough in for the strut bar to come out. You're gonna have to bang it out somehow. Even with the nut on it you can still screw up the threads of the bolt when you hit it, be careful.

midwest2

I believe there is a metal sleeve that surrounds the bolt inside the bushing and that is what it's seized to. The bar is flopping in the wind with no tension.

midwest2

Actually my dealer wants $25 for that bolt. I will cut both sides of the bolt inside the bracket that the strut rod bolts to. I agree there is no room to cut just the head off the outside, but there is room for a skinny sawzall blade on the inside. I agree with the threads getting jacked-up, I need to replace them either way. Thanks for the help.

midwest2

$31 from Sewell including delivery.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

uhh i'd take tension off it then beat the $#!& out of it with an impact wrench (in reverse) to try and pull it out first.

JimsGX

I've had this happen on the rear... Your correct that the bolt is fused to the steel sleeve in the center of the bushing. Your best bet is to have the replacement parts, bring it to a shop and have them torch the old bolt off. I went the sawzall route with mine, but be forwarned that the bolts are hardened, so you won't cut through them with a sawsall as easy as you might think... Do-able, just may take a while... I had to do both sides of four bolts in the rear... (8 cuts).

Jim

midwest2

I could easily cut one side of the bolt, but the other side was just not possible to get to. You are right, it had to be cut off with a torch. I rented one and cut them off and now all is well. What a pain in the a$$ that job was. I hope I never have to do the rears.

By the way, the car is much better over bumps, particularly when the brakes are applied.