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The terms "strut bar" and "strut rod" seems to be used to describe similar parts. I drove a generation one LS400 (1990) from new to 183,500 miles and never had a problem with it's strut bar/rod bushings. The strut bar/rod bushings on the generation two LS400 are a different matter and usually need replacement every 50,000 to 75,000 miles..
Where did you find the bushings? I can't seem to find genuine Lexus bushings and the dealer wants $350 for a pair of the bars with bushings installed. I did find a pair of arms on ebay for $225 but not sure if they are rubber or polyurethane bushings.
Where did you find the bushings? I can't seem to find genuine Lexus bushings and the dealer wants $350 for a pair of the bars with bushings installed. I did find a pair of arms on ebay for $225 but not sure if they are rubber or polyurethane bushings.
Where did you find the bushings? I can't seem to find genuine Lexus bushings and the dealer wants $350 for a pair of the bars with bushings installed. I did find a pair of arms on ebay for $225 but not sure if they are rubber or polyurethane bushings.
Ok. 12 ton too weak! . I am happy then that I splurged 50$ or so and made a simple chinese hydraulic jack and threaded rods and
some wood press with 20 ton capacity. No problem getting them out and in. Have used it for other stuff also like bearings.
This is how the strut rod bushings look like on the inside. I had to press out the center out of the old one to use that outer sleeve to press in the new one in, since you cannot put pressure on the protruding center sleeve or will ruin the bushing.
Note where tabs are the bushing is solid hard rubber and the front and rear ( when installed) have some channels, with liquid, I guess.
New bushing have tabs marked in yellow and in the opposite side the tabs are reversed. I guess it doesn’t matter whether the tabs are at 6 or 12 0’clock. Correct me if I am wrong.
Where did you find the bushings? I can't seem to find genuine Lexus bushings and the dealer wants $350 for a pair of the bars with bushings installed. I did find a pair of arms on ebay for $225 but not sure if they are rubber or polyurethane bushings.
i'll confirm this procedure is the same for all 95-00 LS400s.
I've posted up tips/tricks in other threads but i'll repost them here.
-Use a jack to manipulate the spindle to make removing/reinstalling the strut rod into the LCA.
-make sure you put the strut rods into their respective sides, THE ARMS ARE NOT THE SAME. they are marked L and R. The bushings are the same for both arms.
-Torque big bolts TO SPEC! otherwise your alignment WILL come loose or something important will work its way off... a $20 torque wrench is better than your wrist, i almost guarantee it.
-the OEM bushings HAVE TO BE PROPERLY CLOCKED! Refer to manual, I believe the "tabs" in the bushing have to be 90* perpendicular to the arm, pointing down. -DO NOT TIGHTEN the adjusters until the car is ON THE GROUND!! You need load on the arms so they reach their resting position before you torque down the caster arms or you may experience bushing accelerated ear/tearing.
-Avoid poly bushings, or at least know what you're getting yourself in to.
+a 24-36" 1/2 or 3/8" drive breaker bar WILL save your life.
I've read the whole thread and have 2 unanswered questions... is the part # 48674-40051 good for 98-2000 LS as well or just 97 and older? Also, what is the part # for the control arm bushing?
I've read the whole thread and have 2 unanswered questions... is the part # 48674-40051 good for 98-2000 LS as well or just 97 and older? Also, what is the part # for the control arm bushing?
07-02-17, 03:48 PM
