Time to do her right with bodywork and paint ( 1991 )
10-13-11, 05:50 AM
#16
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Just a quick update..after staying up till ridiculous hours I have concluded that I need to man up and buy a paint sprayer and do this right myself. Two stage Black. I have the compressor..I am looking at paint sprayers and doing a lot of reading...
This cannot be that hard.
I will keep you all updated and hopefully someone can let me know any advice for a first time sprayer.
This cannot be that hard.
I will keep you all updated and hopefully someone can let me know any advice for a first time sprayer.
10-13-11, 08:41 PM
#17
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Single stage black is usually Blacker/Darker than Base/Clear, so its great for black.
Primer only needs to be applied to areas with bodywork or bare metal.
Exterior i would use sandpaper for the entire thing. 400-600grit will be fine. Sand until it isn't shiny anymore. Same goes for inner jambs, scuff with pad until most of the shine is gone. You can also sand the inners if your more comfortable with that.
A 2 part primer would be the best (one that gets mixed with a hardener and sprayed out of a gun) because it is more durable and has better filling abilities.
If your limited to primers out of a can, its better than nothing.\
I would suggest paying the extra $60 for sealer coat.
Primer only needs to be applied to areas with bodywork or bare metal.
Exterior i would use sandpaper for the entire thing. 400-600grit will be fine. Sand until it isn't shiny anymore. Same goes for inner jambs, scuff with pad until most of the shine is gone. You can also sand the inners if your more comfortable with that.
A 2 part primer would be the best (one that gets mixed with a hardener and sprayed out of a gun) because it is more durable and has better filling abilities.
If your limited to primers out of a can, its better than nothing.\
I would suggest paying the extra $60 for sealer coat.
I see so many different blacks...I am thinking about using the LS460's Obsidian Black paint code
10-16-11, 02:00 AM
#19
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Just an update:
I went to lowes and picked up my supplies.
600 feet of plastic sheeting
8 rolls of 3M masking tape
400, 600, 120 grit sandpaper
Kobalt HVLP Paint sprayer with 1000cc gravity fed
Evercoat body filler
total about $160-$170
I set to work that day with the day 1 task to sand out any rust spots and or cut them out with a dremel and use body filler then sand them down to be as smooth as the body
That took about 6 hours total and I still wont know if the bodywork is right until I prime the car
Now on to the masking and de greasing and cleaning
I went and removed all my badges from the car and degreassed and cleaned it.
Then I spent the next 5 hours masking the entire thing from the chrome trim to under the hood to the mirrors and the windows with two layers of plastic sheeting. This was a huge pain and I still have to make the wheel wells and exhaust once I am ready to paint
Sorry for the low quality pictures but it was after a long day on on a camera phone
I will be priming it this week and taking more pictures as the project continues.
Currently I am thinking about taking my black concept and making it the original Silver ( toyota 176 ) ...The car came from the factory as a two tone but I wanted to change it to black after fixing rust spots...This plan was perfect until I realized that as a first time sprayer/painter that I would be in over my head trying to make the WHOLE car black and I would never be happy with the results unless I took all the panels off and did them one by one....this is too daunting of a task for me so I am painting the car a ONE tone silver...so I will hopefully like how it turns out and let you all know.
My budget for the project is $450 for a prime and then 2 stage paint job with all total costs and probably about three or four days of man hours
Thanks
-Pat
I went to lowes and picked up my supplies.
600 feet of plastic sheeting
8 rolls of 3M masking tape
400, 600, 120 grit sandpaper
Kobalt HVLP Paint sprayer with 1000cc gravity fed
Evercoat body filler
total about $160-$170
I set to work that day with the day 1 task to sand out any rust spots and or cut them out with a dremel and use body filler then sand them down to be as smooth as the body
That took about 6 hours total and I still wont know if the bodywork is right until I prime the car
Now on to the masking and de greasing and cleaning
I went and removed all my badges from the car and degreassed and cleaned it.
Then I spent the next 5 hours masking the entire thing from the chrome trim to under the hood to the mirrors and the windows with two layers of plastic sheeting. This was a huge pain and I still have to make the wheel wells and exhaust once I am ready to paint
Sorry for the low quality pictures but it was after a long day on on a camera phone
I will be priming it this week and taking more pictures as the project continues.
Currently I am thinking about taking my black concept and making it the original Silver ( toyota 176 ) ...The car came from the factory as a two tone but I wanted to change it to black after fixing rust spots...This plan was perfect until I realized that as a first time sprayer/painter that I would be in over my head trying to make the WHOLE car black and I would never be happy with the results unless I took all the panels off and did them one by one....this is too daunting of a task for me so I am painting the car a ONE tone silver...so I will hopefully like how it turns out and let you all know.
My budget for the project is $450 for a prime and then 2 stage paint job with all total costs and probably about three or four days of man hours
Thanks
-Pat
10-16-11, 08:10 AM
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Should take off the front headlights and front bumper corner lights. They are so easy to do, probably faster than it takes to mask it, and you wont risk having the edges peel.
Since your spraying metallic/silver now, make sure all the finish work is in 600 grit so scratches wont show.
Oh, one last note, if your planning to spray it at home, wet the garage floor. It will help a lot with dust control.
Since your spraying metallic/silver now, make sure all the finish work is in 600 grit so scratches wont show.
Oh, one last note, if your planning to spray it at home, wet the garage floor. It will help a lot with dust control.
10-16-11, 10:20 PM
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Thank you for the advice
I finished the whole car in 600 grit just to scuff it up
tomorrow I am buying the paint and primer and clear coat from Sherwin Williams
I got nervous today so I decided to test out the paint gun with colored water on some cardboard and think it will be harder than I thought though water and paint are NOT the same at all.
Just to be careful I bought a trunk lid from a junkyard for an old honda civic and sanded it down today and will prime/paint it before I do my car just to practice...
I think making the car One tone silver and putting clear bumper lights on will make the car look MUCH less dated
pictures and updates coming after I paint
-Pat
I finished the whole car in 600 grit just to scuff it up
tomorrow I am buying the paint and primer and clear coat from Sherwin Williams
I got nervous today so I decided to test out the paint gun with colored water on some cardboard and think it will be harder than I thought though water and paint are NOT the same at all.
Just to be careful I bought a trunk lid from a junkyard for an old honda civic and sanded it down today and will prime/paint it before I do my car just to practice...
I think making the car One tone silver and putting clear bumper lights on will make the car look MUCH less dated
pictures and updates coming after I paint
-Pat
10-17-11, 07:21 AM
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For waterbase you dont have to hammer it on. Do a medium coat so its semi-wet looking, prevents runs. Its easier for beginers to do that. Let it flash off until you can touch it, then continue to the next coat.
10-17-11, 05:20 PM
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Hey all
I absolutely am still going to paint it. I have not started yet..the car is just taped up for prep work
I did however get the paint/primer/clear from Sherwin Williams today for a grand total of $216 for paint. By the way the guys at SW were incredible and very helpful for me being a first timer and they did not give me the run around.
Toyota 176
half gallon by 4th dimension paint
I prepped that trunk lid I bought for a civic and sanded her down and cleaned her up and did the primer. Wow did I make a mess! I don't have a dedicated booth so next time I need to plan ahead and use more drop clothes and a more enclosed area.... paint specs on the drive 25 feet from where I was painting....
The primer went on smooth and very well. it looked great. No problem even on my first try.
I am getting cocky now thinking DAMN! I am so glad I can do this.
I waited about 15 minutes for it to dry ( not long enough I don't think )
Then I broke out the base coat and mixed a 2:1 ratio of it and strained it into my paint gun through a filter. No matter what i did the paint didn't seem mixed well enough. it is not water based paint!!!!!!!!!!!
So here I am putting on my first coat of the base and I go oh ****....this is not easy...the color is a metallic silver and it seems like a hard color to do smoothly
Half the side of the trunk lid looks right..the other half with more surface area looks splotchy like the color is not smooth metallic silver even though I am 99% sure I covered the whole thing right.
I am very frustrated at this point as to what I did wrong!
so I sit down and regroup my thoughts and think it could be a few things.
--I could have not mixed the ratio of solvent/paint right....
--I could have too much or too little air coming out of my gun....
--I need more than 1 coat to look smooth color wise
--the paint they gave me was not mixed well ( I highly doubt this )
-- I am just very bad with paint technique
SO I pack it up for the day and will resand it in the morning and try again....
Needless to say folks, this is not as easy as I had hoped even after all the research I did. SO Practice makes perfect!!!
I just am at a loss why the primer went on so damn well and looked so good when the base coat just isn't a consistent silver all over
I will report back with my updates...
Patrick from Cincinnati
I absolutely am still going to paint it. I have not started yet..the car is just taped up for prep work
I did however get the paint/primer/clear from Sherwin Williams today for a grand total of $216 for paint. By the way the guys at SW were incredible and very helpful for me being a first timer and they did not give me the run around.
Toyota 176
half gallon by 4th dimension paint
I prepped that trunk lid I bought for a civic and sanded her down and cleaned her up and did the primer. Wow did I make a mess! I don't have a dedicated booth so next time I need to plan ahead and use more drop clothes and a more enclosed area.... paint specs on the drive 25 feet from where I was painting....
The primer went on smooth and very well. it looked great. No problem even on my first try.
I am getting cocky now thinking DAMN! I am so glad I can do this.
I waited about 15 minutes for it to dry ( not long enough I don't think )
Then I broke out the base coat and mixed a 2:1 ratio of it and strained it into my paint gun through a filter. No matter what i did the paint didn't seem mixed well enough. it is not water based paint!!!!!!!!!!!
So here I am putting on my first coat of the base and I go oh ****....this is not easy...the color is a metallic silver and it seems like a hard color to do smoothly
Half the side of the trunk lid looks right..the other half with more surface area looks splotchy like the color is not smooth metallic silver even though I am 99% sure I covered the whole thing right.
I am very frustrated at this point as to what I did wrong!
so I sit down and regroup my thoughts and think it could be a few things.--I could have not mixed the ratio of solvent/paint right....
--I could have too much or too little air coming out of my gun....
--I need more than 1 coat to look smooth color wise
--the paint they gave me was not mixed well ( I highly doubt this )
-- I am just very bad with paint technique
SO I pack it up for the day and will resand it in the morning and try again....
Needless to say folks, this is not as easy as I had hoped even after all the research I did. SO Practice makes perfect!!!
I just am at a loss why the primer went on so damn well and looked so good when the base coat just isn't a consistent silver all over
I will report back with my updates...
Patrick from Cincinnati
10-17-11, 05:45 PM
#29
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it is base coat and THEN a separate clear coat
the base coat is giving me problems right now and I do not know why
I know paint with high metallic is hard to do smoothly but come on..this is really hard...
the base coat is giving me problems right now and I do not know why
I know paint with high metallic is hard to do smoothly but come on..this is really hard...
10-17-11, 06:27 PM
#30
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ok try this. Once you think its all covered it still looks blotchy and wierd right?
Do you have a regulator? Drop the pressure a bit. Say you were spraying at 30psi, drop it to 20. pull back to about 1feet away from the panel. shoot a slow dry coat .
edit: Also a good gun comes in play for metallics. A cheap gun will not atomize well enough sometimes and you will have trouble with it.
Do you have a regulator? Drop the pressure a bit. Say you were spraying at 30psi, drop it to 20. pull back to about 1feet away from the panel. shoot a slow dry coat .
edit: Also a good gun comes in play for metallics. A cheap gun will not atomize well enough sometimes and you will have trouble with it.