When you do, could you please let me know if there's enough clearance to unbolt the entire mount from the block(driver's side), without removing the rack or dropping the subframe?

 

on my other 99, Jon removed the RH mount first and let it sag while he removed the left one and then went back and put the right one in (oh, and that was also when he broke the heater control valve) He recommends removal of the HCV before you jack up the engine.

I'l try to get some photos and good info for you..... are you fixing to do yours?

 

Just ordered the tranny mount for my 99 from Sewell ~$40.... I've got that low level rumble at idle that others have mentioned...with 140k on it, I'm sure it's due. We'll see if it makes a difference.

 

Yeah mine are shot and i'm tired of holding off on them. going to do them when I hit my next OCI.

 

OK PD, Jon did not lower any rack or crossmember, he took the HCV loose, jacked the engine up, removed the RH mount, and tried to get the left one out, had to go back and install the new right one
first (my engine was totally loose, including the tranny mount and was very low in the cradle) with it in, he went back to the LH side jacked it up and removed and replaced the old two piece support with the new one.. then done the tranny mount. started to remount the HCV and one of the nipples broke off... had to get another one. so IF you cant be extra careful with the HCV, get another one, just in case... he then replaced the VCG, and with 230K, this engine had NO/ZERO sludge in it, I was surprised... just a gold tone color on everything. the VCG come off in pieces and it needed the grommets and tube seals also. BUT ... BUT when we finished and road tested it, the stupid P0125 code came back... so I still dont know what to replace to cure it.
I am thinking: I bought the 14.99 (masterpro), and they have a BWD for 24.99, get it and take the other one back and see if that will make the gauge read higher.......

 

Makes me want to go check if my HCV is okay.. I assume it is i just dont remember using my heat since it was months ago..

 

so is this how the engine mounts were replaced?
- RH side
- LH side
- lastly the trans mount

would it be easier to loosen the tranny mount when doing the engine mounts? good idea about the HCV. what does the FSM say about engine mount replacement?

 

I cant believe what you said about loosening the tranny mount.... have you ever seen one????
just look at the photos of mine...... and you want to loosen it?????
have another beer...

 

iirc the FSM doesn't have anything in specific about doing a mount only change, they are only mentioned when pulling the engine. Am a bit sleepy though so I may be wrong atm.

Thanks for the heads up Billy, I'll re-update after I order mounts and find the time to throw them in.

 

hehe i would if i had some. i understand the trans mount is pretty tiny (even worse if it was original due to being more worn), but what i was thinking is that by loosening the trans mount it would give more wiggle room to do the engine mounts, of course one at a time. possibly loosening the trans mount would also save it from excessive stretching? just a thought.

thanks PD, i really need to invest in a FSM for general info.

 

I understood your reasoning, I was just having a little fun with you....
as far as I know the three were oem, and the right side was beat smooth, where all the torque is.

 

That's pretty much how mine looked. After replacing all that now I need to change the stupid drive shaft doughnuts. Rubberbubberflubber

 

rubber everything = @ 100mph on a dyno. SMOOTH!

 

Been having similar vibration issues with my 00 LS400 at 65mph - heres how things went:

- checked tierods and ball joints- everything looked solid.

- rotated tires, noticed less vibration in steering wheel

- had tires road-force balanced - 2 tires were out of balance. 15g and 25g. they also did a tire rotation based on the road force balance machine recommendations

- vibrations back in steering wheel at 65 :cry

- front brakes done because they needed it anyways- rotors cleaned/turned and everything was in spec

- replaced trans mount - no change in vibes (4 bolts broke off during the process )


Technician that did the wheel balance noticed feathering wear on some of my tires and believes the tire wear is causing vibes still.

I decided to do the Trans mount since it seems like a common issue and my car is now over 100k anyways. As stated above I had 4 bolts snap right off. 2 of them held the heat shield in place (not a big deal) but the other 2 held the mount to the transmission (PITA!!!). steel and aluminum dont go together!


Vibrations are minor but still persist. Looks like ill wait and possibly replace tires around winter unless someone thinks there is something else wrong.

 

I have a 00 120k and after putting new tires on ls430 wheels i get the same vibration in the gas pedal, floor and steering wheel. I had the tires roadforce balanced and they said one was out of round. I replaced that tire and i still feel slight vibration. I took car to lexus and they checked my suspension and mounts and said everything was good. the vibration is not too bad, but i can def feel it in my leg. I used to have 20's and never had this problem. still not sure what i could be.