Megan EZ's on UCF20/UCF21
11-10-11, 11:51 PM
#48
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: ca
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The fronts will give you more suspension travel for any given ride height. Meaning, your uca will have more clearance before it bottoms out on the shock tower, given you have the ride height set the same before and after installing them. Im pretty sure at that height your upper control arms are hitting once and awhile at least.
11-11-11, 06:57 AM
#50
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: ca
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Yea, you're right. Posting before bed, not a good idea. Although, I'm sure he would still benefit from the adjustment of the roll center.
11-11-11, 01:26 PM
#55
no problem. here is what megan said regarding my complaint:
guess i'll start "drooping" the rear springs.. i hope this thread helps any potential megan ez buyers out. not exactly sure if the megan lp's are the same, but i've looked into it and it doesn't seem to have the same problem that the megan ez's have (came by a thread of a guy selling his lp's for the ls, saw the pics, and alot of the threads were covered), despite the fact that the settings are almost identical.
Greetings,
I see nothing wrong with the installation. Regarding the "issue being well-known," it may be well-known on the forums, but if we do not hear about it, we would never know. Thank you for letting us know.
At this point, you need to start lowering the two locking perches up top. We can call this spring sag. For the general public, they might understand it as negative preload (especially when "spring sag" can be confused with the physical property of metal fatigue of the spring over time). If you think this is of concern, it is not. The shock travel available is dependent on wheel travel as well. If you were to remove the spring and reinstall the coil-over as well as the OEM wheel setup, you would find that the shock would start to contact the bumpstop at the same time the wheel/tire will run into a travel limitation.
If you lower the perches, yes you will lose shock travel, but you don't have that much travel to begin with anyway since it is limited by available wheel/tire travel. Lower that down and you will find the solution to your problem.
If you think the "negative preload" is bad, I run it like this on my own car that I daily drive and drive at the track. Race cars will have this very same characteristic because this is the ideal (and advanced) way of setting up suspension. On my car, the spring is loose by 30mm in the rear and 15mm in the front.
Our coil-overs are adjustable, not just for people who are trying to slam the car as low as possible, but also for people who appreciate suspension that works, where shock travel is maximized to prevent excessive bottoming out. In other words, I set my suspension up so that the tires scrub the fender slightly before the shock bottoms out. The tire scrubbing is the mere warning for me that I am close to bottoming out the suspension. If I were to raise it (which would be more ideal for track use, suspension geometry, etc) then the tires would not be hitting the frame.
We merely state to start with 0 preload to maintain full travel, because dropping the perches loses travel, but as long as the shock travel is optimally tuned to your setup (wheel/tire combinations will affect your available wheel travel), it does not cause detrimental effects.
Race cars end up using tender or helper springs if they are concerned with the spring not aligning properly if the suspension were to fully decompress, though they are not entirely necessary.
I see nothing wrong with the installation. Regarding the "issue being well-known," it may be well-known on the forums, but if we do not hear about it, we would never know. Thank you for letting us know.
At this point, you need to start lowering the two locking perches up top. We can call this spring sag. For the general public, they might understand it as negative preload (especially when "spring sag" can be confused with the physical property of metal fatigue of the spring over time). If you think this is of concern, it is not. The shock travel available is dependent on wheel travel as well. If you were to remove the spring and reinstall the coil-over as well as the OEM wheel setup, you would find that the shock would start to contact the bumpstop at the same time the wheel/tire will run into a travel limitation.
If you lower the perches, yes you will lose shock travel, but you don't have that much travel to begin with anyway since it is limited by available wheel/tire travel. Lower that down and you will find the solution to your problem.
If you think the "negative preload" is bad, I run it like this on my own car that I daily drive and drive at the track. Race cars will have this very same characteristic because this is the ideal (and advanced) way of setting up suspension. On my car, the spring is loose by 30mm in the rear and 15mm in the front.
Our coil-overs are adjustable, not just for people who are trying to slam the car as low as possible, but also for people who appreciate suspension that works, where shock travel is maximized to prevent excessive bottoming out. In other words, I set my suspension up so that the tires scrub the fender slightly before the shock bottoms out. The tire scrubbing is the mere warning for me that I am close to bottoming out the suspension. If I were to raise it (which would be more ideal for track use, suspension geometry, etc) then the tires would not be hitting the frame.
We merely state to start with 0 preload to maintain full travel, because dropping the perches loses travel, but as long as the shock travel is optimally tuned to your setup (wheel/tire combinations will affect your available wheel travel), it does not cause detrimental effects.
Race cars end up using tender or helper springs if they are concerned with the spring not aligning properly if the suspension were to fully decompress, though they are not entirely necessary.
Last edited by xtremex626; 11-11-11 at 01:33 PM.
11-11-11, 05:29 PM
#58
you might need to droop the spring AND get the youzealand. Thats roughly 2" right there. Then you'll be tucking a little bit of tire, but not yet "slammed"
I know you got the tires free, but the tires look like rubber bands wrapped around those oem wheels lol. I'm sure its temporary tho
I know you got the tires free, but the tires look like rubber bands wrapped around those oem wheels lol. I'm sure its temporary tho
11-11-11, 06:24 PM
#60
the tire size is 215/35/18
you might need to droop the spring AND get the youzealand. Thats roughly 2" right there. Then you'll be tucking a little bit of tire, but not yet "slammed"
I know you got the tires free, but the tires look like rubber bands wrapped around those oem wheels lol. I'm sure its temporary tho
I know you got the tires free, but the tires look like rubber bands wrapped around those oem wheels lol. I'm sure its temporary tho
Last edited by xtremex626; 11-11-11 at 06:28 PM.