LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

Megan EZ's on UCF20/UCF21

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Old 11-11-11, 07:33 PM
  #61  
RA40
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215/35/18...wow, that's ~2" smaller diameter. On some conservative 245/40's you'd have the tire with no gap if not a bit of it tucking, same in front as you have it now.
Old 11-17-11, 07:56 AM
  #62  
Kingsoup
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More review from I on these babies. Although the ride quality is pretty stiff on the 18's, the big 17 235/55/17 snow tires I have, have given the ride some cush it needed bad, its still a bit crazy on high speed bumps with its short stroke, but you get used to it, the handling is really seriously improved from the stock air suspension.

I never wanted to lower my car that much, in fact I wanted it a bit higher, I have the fronts in this Pic at max high and the rears at max low. I don't understand why the rears have like 6in of thread space, all of which make it a super monster truck, I'm not sure this thing was made for the Lexus, more of a generic body with lexus ends on it. But they are the cheapest around, so I guess there's yerr problem. I would think guys who want the tucked, or slammed look are not going to be pleased with the rears though, maybe those changes they suggested will get the drop you need. As it stands its pretty much perfect, but I wanted more clearance then most I think. I have them as high as possible to fit my giant snow tires.

Old 11-17-11, 10:58 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Kingsoup
More review from I on these babies. Although the ride quality is pretty stiff on the 18's, the big 17 235/55/17 snow tires I have, have given the ride some cush it needed bad, its still a bit crazy on high speed bumps with its short stroke, but you get used to it, the handling is really seriously improved from the stock air suspension.

I never wanted to lower my car that much, in fact I wanted it a bit higher, I have the fronts in this Pic at max high and the rears at max low. I don't understand why the rears have like 6in of thread space, all of which make it a super monster truck, I'm not sure this thing was made for the Lexus, more of a generic body with lexus ends on it. But they are the cheapest around, so I guess there's yerr problem. I would think guys who want the tucked, or slammed look are not going to be pleased with the rears though, maybe those changes they suggested will get the drop you need. As it stands its pretty much perfect, but I wanted more clearance then most I think. I have them as high as possible to fit my giant snow tires.
Thanks for the review. I've been on the fence about wanting these and my biggest concern is the ride. I'd probably run 16's with them at the height that you have. Can you be more specific about how harsh the ride is on bumps? Does the significant other have any issue with the ride?

Do you have any larger pics of your car?
Old 11-17-11, 11:23 AM
  #64  
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the ride is pretty nice, i'm running max stiff for both fronts and rears and it's not as stiff as compared to other coilovers. i've ridden in my cousin's sc300 on pbm's.. which were way more stiffer. the ride is pretty comfortable even at max stiff. it needs to be stiffer imo. the handling is so much better than stock though.

hopefully megan will address this issue and fix it.
Old 01-06-12, 10:20 AM
  #65  
johnnyg66
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Nice to see your take on these coilovers. I have had mine on since Aug and at this point i may be taking them off and going back to KYB. I just think for me the ride can be to harsh and man don't forget to slow down enough over speed bumps. I have played with the height at first didn't want to slam just lower it.

Good to see you got yours where you want them.
Old 01-09-12, 09:11 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by xtremex626
so everything just got finished. as you guys said.. the back is poorly designed. the tube on the bottom that twists up/down from the threads is too short.. why didnt megan make a longer tube so it can cover more threads? i literally have a 4-5 inch gap between my threads in the rears, and that's maxed out. i haven't messed with the preloads yet since i have to get my car up and running for school....

when everything was finished.. the fronts were still slammed.. rears were noticeably high.. so i was raked like a teggy. i had to readjust the fronts about an inch and a half higher so it balanced out. now everything is all leveled. im still pretty low because im on low pro's. if i put my stock 16's back on, i'd be tucking.

till' i find out how to make the rears slam, i'll be riding at this height. might be a stupid question..

this is maxed out without messing with the preload:



up close:



this damn collar/tube whatever crap is too short -_-



need to figure out a way to make the threads go higher

Could it be an option to take of the threaded portion and cut an inch off t so that we can twist it down lower?
Old 01-09-12, 04:15 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by bauceLS400
Could it be an option to take of the threaded portion and cut an inch off t so that we can twist it down lower?
no since that's the pressurized shock...
Old 01-09-12, 06:03 PM
  #68  
Dubbayoo
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Do you guys typically lower the car first then choose wheels to fit, vice versa or both at the same time?
Old 01-09-12, 06:12 PM
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wheels first, mod car to fit.
Old 01-09-12, 06:51 PM
  #70  
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suspension first then wheels...thats stupid to ride 4x4 with wheels poking out.
Old 01-09-12, 10:12 PM
  #71  
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yeah to clarify, buy wheels, and use them to fit the suspension/fitment/fender work.

but you can't put them on until the suspension's done.
Old 01-10-12, 06:01 AM
  #72  
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If I knew then what I know now, I personally would have taken my car to a body shop and told them to roll and pull the crap out of the fenders/quarters without any 'major' bodywork and THEN I would have bought wheels I liked and re-barreled them to fit my body work.
I think bodywork is the catalyst for everyhting else. If you know you're only comfortable with a roll then do that first and wheels second. If you know you're wiling to do whatever it takes then still do the bodywork first (unless its a radius) to your comroft level and budget and then buy/build the wheels to suit.
Wheels are easily swapped or rebuilt. Bodywork isn't.
Old 01-13-12, 11:54 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by johnnyg66
Nice to see your take on these coilovers. I have had mine on since Aug and at this point i may be taking them off and going back to KYB. I just think for me the ride can be to harsh and man don't forget to slow down enough over speed bumps.
Hard to believe you feel Megans are "harsh". Have you even rode in a car with a modified suspension? I was very surprised as how soft these coilovers were after installing em in my friends 92 LS, especially when the advertised rates are 12/8kg. It feels like springs almost, and he has 18" wheels with low profile tires. Not "harsh" by any means
Old 01-13-12, 01:47 PM
  #74  
xtremex626
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yeah.. i don't know what's the fuss about the megan ez streets being too "harsh" or "stiff" for the 90-00 LS'. heck.. it's not even "stiff" enough for me. it's still comfortable even when i'm maxed out on the stiffness.

i had an '03 acura tl-s with the same exact spring rates as these megan ez's (12kg f/ 8kg r), and those are alot more stiffer than these.

for the price of these, i'm not complaining one bit since they do have dampening settings. and as an update, i've decided to keep these coilovers instead of selling them. i've messed with the preloads in the rear, drooping the springs about 2cm.
Old 01-13-12, 04:23 PM
  #75  
johnnyg66
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I guess harsh is the wrong word. I have played with all dampening settings. Its either too bouncy or little stiff. I guess i want more of a float. I have changed all but strut rod bushings on the front. Overall the EZ are not bad and i am still undecided on keeping them on and going to KYB.

I still have 15s on but have a good lead and price for ls430 5 spokes i want to get.


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