Overnight, my car won't start, turns over fine, just will not start
02-12-12, 12:32 PM
#16
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I just remebered that for the past month or so the car would idle really high upon start and then settle down after a couple of minutes, also the fan started to come on upon start, Don't know if this has anything to do with the non starting problem. had the radiator and fan replaced about 4 months ago if that is relevant.
02-13-12, 07:18 PM
#18
Driver School Candidate
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OK, I am getting no spark at the igniton coil. going to try and replace the crankshaft position sensor and the ignition coils. Will up date tommorow night
02-14-12, 12:33 AM
#20
Lexus Champion
Something no one here has mentioned, but I have seen it before on an LS400 multiple times, is a large vacuum leak - and not only could this be the more obvious type such as a vacuum hose with a large crack or disconnected (come loose), or......
it could be a sneaky air leak........such as........say the Idle Air Control Valve (very common problem area in the LS400) has become stuck in the fully open position, then it is not going to want to start at all, ESPECIALLY in colder weather!!! - The full open position is only applicable if you live in Dubai or Phoenix - lol
it could be a sneaky air leak........such as........say the Idle Air Control Valve (very common problem area in the LS400) has become stuck in the fully open position, then it is not going to want to start at all, ESPECIALLY in colder weather!!! - The full open position is only applicable if you live in Dubai or Phoenix - lol
02-14-12, 10:22 PM
#23
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If you have determined that you have no spark, why are you starting with one of the most expensive parts? There are troubleshooting lists in these forums. I am new to Lexus - my other car is a Porshe - but I am experienced with tracking down starting problems.
Is it really turning over at the usual speed, or is it a little slower? You may to clean the battery connections. There is a relay/selonoid linked to the starter that allows power to the ignition. There are coils, logic circuits, computers, relays and sensors galore that all have to work in order to get spark to the plugs in a modern engine.
There are fuses, relays and connections that come apart and other electical parts to fail - some of them are fairly cheap to work around..
Example: I drove my car to a buddy's farm to work on it with his nice equpment. After doing a bit of cleaning and basic maintenance it would not start....nothing but the starter grinding. Turned out the CPS connector had come apart mostly because it was 25 years old and had been moved during the cleaning. We cleaned the connector, carefully connected each line and tightly bound it in place. It's been running just fine for 2 years.
Always check electrical connections before assuming that an expensive part needs to be replaced. Every sensor, every relay, and every funse has an electical value that can be checked with a multitester - and that iformation is available with some research.
If you are going to maintain your own car, you need to invest in a Shop Manual set. These should give you all the info you need, including troubleshooting proceedures.
Is it really turning over at the usual speed, or is it a little slower? You may to clean the battery connections. There is a relay/selonoid linked to the starter that allows power to the ignition. There are coils, logic circuits, computers, relays and sensors galore that all have to work in order to get spark to the plugs in a modern engine.
There are fuses, relays and connections that come apart and other electical parts to fail - some of them are fairly cheap to work around..
Example: I drove my car to a buddy's farm to work on it with his nice equpment. After doing a bit of cleaning and basic maintenance it would not start....nothing but the starter grinding. Turned out the CPS connector had come apart mostly because it was 25 years old and had been moved during the cleaning. We cleaned the connector, carefully connected each line and tightly bound it in place. It's been running just fine for 2 years.
Always check electrical connections before assuming that an expensive part needs to be replaced. Every sensor, every relay, and every funse has an electical value that can be checked with a multitester - and that iformation is available with some research.
If you are going to maintain your own car, you need to invest in a Shop Manual set. These should give you all the info you need, including troubleshooting proceedures.
Last edited by mehall; 02-14-12 at 10:23 PM. Reason: spelling
02-15-12, 05:13 PM
#25
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Sorry...I din't mean to comd down on you. The way I read the posts, it seemed that you were replacing parts as a troubleshooting method.
Your questions and comments about needing a tow truck to drag the car to a mechanic indicated that you weren't comfortable doing this work.
If you've tested the sensor and it failed, of course you should replace it.
Where did you get the part? Inquiring minds want to know - especially if you got a good deal.
Your questions and comments about needing a tow truck to drag the car to a mechanic indicated that you weren't comfortable doing this work.
If you've tested the sensor and it failed, of course you should replace it.
Where did you get the part? Inquiring minds want to know - especially if you got a good deal.
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