New car alarm
10-30-02, 01:12 PM
#1
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New car alarm
I lost the keyless entry key and it will cost the same amount of $ to replace the key or install a new and better function alarm system such as opening the trunk and roll up the windows. What is your suggestion. What will happen to the old alarm system if I install a new one. Will they work together or the installer will disable the old one.
10-30-02, 03:56 PM
#2
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Normally when installing an aftermarket alarm system you disable the factory alarm system and use the aftermarket one. When installing something like a keyless entry+ remote starter you have to by pass the factory alarm system. If you're planning on doing this yourself and have no experience with this type of work I wouldnt recommend doing it unless you have an older LS. Its kind of a pain to look for all the wire and splice them and everything. Its possible but its kinda time consuming. Long as you disable the factory alarm you will be fine.
10-30-02, 04:34 PM
#3
Instructor
This was lifted from Autotoys.com http://www.autotoys.com/homehtm.htm
LEXUS security system installation performed on an AUTOTOYS.COM STAFF MEMBER vehicle. This security installation is very complex and should be left only to professionals or advanced installers. Highlights the new 1998 LEXUS GS400 with all options.
Shown to the left is the fully prewired security module. We used a 732 DEI module, Hornet in this vehicle. 3 channels and on board shock sensor. You will notice that we have all wires going to ONE location in set lengths including the doorlock, led and valet switch wires on the right of the module.
We also loomed the entire harness (shown in arrows) and then used 3M tape to surround the loom.
This is where we tapped the ignition wires for the alarm and the power. The start kill connection was also made here.
We had to run wires into the driver´s door because of the multiplex module (which contains the security system, doorlock and power window wires)
This car has all wires ran through grommets and then again what wires do not run through grommets come through heavy plastic sheets which are taped down with heavy tape. The red wires above show the 4 wires (which we taped up) and run in a factory opening from inside the vehicle to the inside of the driver´s door. We also attached wire ties to the new wire harness.
We used t-taps to tap the doorlock harness coming out of the driver´s doorlock switch. The wires are (-) for unlock and lock
Our taps at the doorlock multiplex module
Before removing the driver´s hush panel, the automatic climate control sensor had to be disconnected. First the hose shown on top then the electrical connector shown on the bottom.
The green arrow shows where the transponder is for the built in vehicle theft deterrent system which works off the factory ignition keys. This has to be bypassed to make the remote start work in this vehicle. The red arrows show where 2 other 10 mm bolts have to be removed before the hush panel can be removed. The trim around the ignition key simply is held in by CLIPS, it pulls outwards towards the back of the vehicle and comes off.
Another 10 mm bolt has to be removed under parking brake release.
The doorlock actuator works with the driver´s door handle The whole assembly should be unbolted from the door panel via the 2 Phillips head #2 screws holding it. We do NOT recommend removing the actuator wires or the cables from the assembly itself.
Green arrows shown where our connections for the doorlock and security system is made. The bottom arrow shows the 4” midbass (nakamichi system)
We installed a MINI piezo siren close to the air intakes where it could not be reached from the outside of the vehicle. This when combined with the siren the alarm comes with gives a very unique and loud shriek that cannot be ignored.
While we was back there installing the piezo siren, we checked the high beams for proper sizing (since the manual does not specify it) - It is 9005 bulbs. The headlights on this vehicle is HID (high intensity discharge) and it could not be changed.
At the time of this writing, none of the tech departments of (unnamed) major manufacturers of security products in the US had any definite information on this vehicle on the locks and security interface.
Below is the wires we figured out on our GS400 through testing including full factory alarm interface (arm and disarm) and window rollup/down:
Doorpin wire - GREEN wire (-) at the underdash hush panel light (2 pin harness)
Lock wire (-) light green black at the driver´s door switch
Unlock wire (-) light green/red wire at the driver´s door switch
Purple/yellow (-) trunk release -- low milliamps ok- at switch
Parking light (+) green wire in white connector at the top of the fuse box in driver´s kick panel
12v: White with blue stripe at key switch harness
IGN Black yellow and Black / white
Starter kill wire (thin black wire--see picture)
Heater wire: Blue/yellow
Brake wire (+) located at brake switch harness
Tach: At any one of the individual coil packs
Factory arm: Needs a strong GROUND in connection with door lock wire (-) (DIODE FROM EACH OTHER, DIODE DIODE DIODE!) Pink/black wire at doorlock mmx module to harness to the right.
Factory Disarm: Gray wire and Pink/Green wire to the right most plug on MMX module in driver´s door. Requires strong ground, DIODE FROM EACH OTHER. We wired up a relay from the alarm and dioded all connections to the door unlock switch wire and these 2 wires. This effectively disarms the alarm when you unlock the doors from the alarm remote control. We also double pulsed the gray and pink green wires together to unlock both doors and disarm the alarm at the same time without having to interface the driver´s door unlock switch wire. Since we wanted to keep the system to unlock the driver´s door only on disarm, we used the procedure listed in the beginning of this paragraph. You can then unlock ALL doors after disarm by pressing the WINDOW ROLL DOWN button as described below just momentarily (the windows will not roll down, there is a time delay).
WINDOW AND SUNROOF ROLL DOWN (all doors unlock): Send a strong ground to the GRAY and PINK/GREEN wires in the MMX module in the plug to the right. Make sure you diode and isolate each circuit from one another. We hooked up a relay and used channel 3 to roll down the windows and sunroof this way, very effective and easy. Our guess is if you send a pulse to the arm wire AFTER arming the system, it should roll up the windows, we did not hook this up or know if it will work since we ran out of channels on our security system. 1- Disarm/Arm 2-Trunk 3-Window Roll Down
We installed a LED under the hush panel for valet mode indication and put a VARAD 4000 scanning LED module in the center right behind the rear passenger seats.
LEXUS security system installation performed on an AUTOTOYS.COM STAFF MEMBER vehicle. This security installation is very complex and should be left only to professionals or advanced installers. Highlights the new 1998 LEXUS GS400 with all options.
Shown to the left is the fully prewired security module. We used a 732 DEI module, Hornet in this vehicle. 3 channels and on board shock sensor. You will notice that we have all wires going to ONE location in set lengths including the doorlock, led and valet switch wires on the right of the module.
We also loomed the entire harness (shown in arrows) and then used 3M tape to surround the loom.
This is where we tapped the ignition wires for the alarm and the power. The start kill connection was also made here.
We had to run wires into the driver´s door because of the multiplex module (which contains the security system, doorlock and power window wires)
This car has all wires ran through grommets and then again what wires do not run through grommets come through heavy plastic sheets which are taped down with heavy tape. The red wires above show the 4 wires (which we taped up) and run in a factory opening from inside the vehicle to the inside of the driver´s door. We also attached wire ties to the new wire harness.
We used t-taps to tap the doorlock harness coming out of the driver´s doorlock switch. The wires are (-) for unlock and lock
Our taps at the doorlock multiplex module
Before removing the driver´s hush panel, the automatic climate control sensor had to be disconnected. First the hose shown on top then the electrical connector shown on the bottom.
The green arrow shows where the transponder is for the built in vehicle theft deterrent system which works off the factory ignition keys. This has to be bypassed to make the remote start work in this vehicle. The red arrows show where 2 other 10 mm bolts have to be removed before the hush panel can be removed. The trim around the ignition key simply is held in by CLIPS, it pulls outwards towards the back of the vehicle and comes off.
Another 10 mm bolt has to be removed under parking brake release.
The doorlock actuator works with the driver´s door handle The whole assembly should be unbolted from the door panel via the 2 Phillips head #2 screws holding it. We do NOT recommend removing the actuator wires or the cables from the assembly itself.
Green arrows shown where our connections for the doorlock and security system is made. The bottom arrow shows the 4” midbass (nakamichi system)
We installed a MINI piezo siren close to the air intakes where it could not be reached from the outside of the vehicle. This when combined with the siren the alarm comes with gives a very unique and loud shriek that cannot be ignored.
While we was back there installing the piezo siren, we checked the high beams for proper sizing (since the manual does not specify it) - It is 9005 bulbs. The headlights on this vehicle is HID (high intensity discharge) and it could not be changed.
At the time of this writing, none of the tech departments of (unnamed) major manufacturers of security products in the US had any definite information on this vehicle on the locks and security interface.
Below is the wires we figured out on our GS400 through testing including full factory alarm interface (arm and disarm) and window rollup/down:
Doorpin wire - GREEN wire (-) at the underdash hush panel light (2 pin harness)
Lock wire (-) light green black at the driver´s door switch
Unlock wire (-) light green/red wire at the driver´s door switch
Purple/yellow (-) trunk release -- low milliamps ok- at switch
Parking light (+) green wire in white connector at the top of the fuse box in driver´s kick panel
12v: White with blue stripe at key switch harness
IGN Black yellow and Black / white
Starter kill wire (thin black wire--see picture)
Heater wire: Blue/yellow
Brake wire (+) located at brake switch harness
Tach: At any one of the individual coil packs
Factory arm: Needs a strong GROUND in connection with door lock wire (-) (DIODE FROM EACH OTHER, DIODE DIODE DIODE!) Pink/black wire at doorlock mmx module to harness to the right.
Factory Disarm: Gray wire and Pink/Green wire to the right most plug on MMX module in driver´s door. Requires strong ground, DIODE FROM EACH OTHER. We wired up a relay from the alarm and dioded all connections to the door unlock switch wire and these 2 wires. This effectively disarms the alarm when you unlock the doors from the alarm remote control. We also double pulsed the gray and pink green wires together to unlock both doors and disarm the alarm at the same time without having to interface the driver´s door unlock switch wire. Since we wanted to keep the system to unlock the driver´s door only on disarm, we used the procedure listed in the beginning of this paragraph. You can then unlock ALL doors after disarm by pressing the WINDOW ROLL DOWN button as described below just momentarily (the windows will not roll down, there is a time delay).
WINDOW AND SUNROOF ROLL DOWN (all doors unlock): Send a strong ground to the GRAY and PINK/GREEN wires in the MMX module in the plug to the right. Make sure you diode and isolate each circuit from one another. We hooked up a relay and used channel 3 to roll down the windows and sunroof this way, very effective and easy. Our guess is if you send a pulse to the arm wire AFTER arming the system, it should roll up the windows, we did not hook this up or know if it will work since we ran out of channels on our security system. 1- Disarm/Arm 2-Trunk 3-Window Roll Down
We installed a LED under the hush panel for valet mode indication and put a VARAD 4000 scanning LED module in the center right behind the rear passenger seats.
10-30-02, 10:34 PM
#4
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I am not planning to do it myself. I just worry the new aftermarket system will crash with the existing one. If the installer knows how to disable the old one then I think it's okay right. Any alarm system recommended for around $600 installed.
10-31-02, 03:10 AM
#5
Originally posted by jimmit
Normally when installing an aftermarket alarm system you disable the factory alarm system and use the aftermarket one. When installing something like a keyless entry+ remote starter you have to by pass the factory alarm system. If you're planning on doing this yourself and have no experience with this type of work I wouldnt recommend doing it unless you have an older LS. Its kind of a pain to look for all the wire and splice them and everything. Its possible but its kinda time consuming. Long as you disable the factory alarm you will be fine.
Normally when installing an aftermarket alarm system you disable the factory alarm system and use the aftermarket one. When installing something like a keyless entry+ remote starter you have to by pass the factory alarm system. If you're planning on doing this yourself and have no experience with this type of work I wouldnt recommend doing it unless you have an older LS. Its kind of a pain to look for all the wire and splice them and everything. Its possible but its kinda time consuming. Long as you disable the factory alarm you will be fine.
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