Putting car on a dyno
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Putting car on a dyno
Hey! All you first gen LS owners..now you'll be able to see what an under-performing LS does on the dyno!
Seriously though, this Friday the 8th I'll be taking my car down to R&D dyno (Gardena) to have it ran to see what kind of power I'm producing. Doing three runs for $75. I'll be swapping the K&N out for the stock filter.
Does anyone have any suggestions on which order I should put the k&n and stock air filter in? Also, does anyone have a spare stock intake box that they are willing to donate for Jbrady's air box mod? I'd like to throw this in there also for comparison instead of 2 stock (or 2 k&N) runs and 1 stock (2K&N runs) filter test. I'd need to get it sometime this week (sorry for late notice anyone- I 'll try Steve Ganz also)
I forgot which thread, but someone mentioned I should be geting around xxx HP? (was it you jbrady??)
Seriously though, this Friday the 8th I'll be taking my car down to R&D dyno (Gardena) to have it ran to see what kind of power I'm producing. Doing three runs for $75. I'll be swapping the K&N out for the stock filter.
Does anyone have any suggestions on which order I should put the k&n and stock air filter in? Also, does anyone have a spare stock intake box that they are willing to donate for Jbrady's air box mod? I'd like to throw this in there also for comparison instead of 2 stock (or 2 k&N) runs and 1 stock (2K&N runs) filter test. I'd need to get it sometime this week (sorry for late notice anyone- I 'll try Steve Ganz also)
I forgot which thread, but someone mentioned I should be geting around xxx HP? (was it you jbrady??)
Last edited by Lvangundy; 11-05-02 at 12:29 PM.
#4
Lexus Champion
From what I have seen of others that have dyno'd... I would think 180rwhp/190rwtq is about right for a properly running, stock, 90-94 LS400. That is obviously a big loss from the rated 250hp/260tq.
The difference is drivetrain loss. Drivetrain loss is a combination of torque converter loss, automatic tranny oil drag and viscosity loss, gear-to-gear efficiency loss, U-joint loss, differential gear efficiency loss, differential oil drag and viscosity loss, CVT loss, tire-to-road loss, drivetrain mass resistance. The more components, the larger their mass, the greater the loss.
As far as the K&N... refresh my memory, is it a stock replacement element or pod type? Stock replacement I would run with the K&N first since that is how you are driving and the cars ECU should be adapted to the flow. Going to the slightly more restrictive stock element should show a drop due to the lower amount of pressure available. Reversing this may not show as much gain as the ECU may or may not be a factor.
The difference is drivetrain loss. Drivetrain loss is a combination of torque converter loss, automatic tranny oil drag and viscosity loss, gear-to-gear efficiency loss, U-joint loss, differential gear efficiency loss, differential oil drag and viscosity loss, CVT loss, tire-to-road loss, drivetrain mass resistance. The more components, the larger their mass, the greater the loss.
As far as the K&N... refresh my memory, is it a stock replacement element or pod type? Stock replacement I would run with the K&N first since that is how you are driving and the cars ECU should be adapted to the flow. Going to the slightly more restrictive stock element should show a drop due to the lower amount of pressure available. Reversing this may not show as much gain as the ECU may or may not be a factor.
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