Yamae

If I were you, I would check the ignition timing first in a case like this. Will it be advanced as you push the gas pedal or will it just keep 3 degrees BTDC all the way?

If not advanced and keeping 3 degrees BTDC, it means that the ECU is in the safe mode. It doesn't throw any codes in this situation. The ECU enters this mode when 3 main processors in the ECU are not working as they are expected. Toyota or Lexus ECUs have this extra function utilizing an additional extra processor which is only watching or checking 3 others normally and when they are failed to work, it works instead of them to avoid the car to stop at the middle of the road. The extra processor handles idling very well but it dare limits the engine power. But once the engine reaches the high rpm range and the generator is supplying enough energy to ECU, the voltage for 3 processors sometimes becomes stable and the extra processor passes the control function to 3 main processors and the engine works well. Generally speaking, it is very seldom that 3 processors fail together at the same time but when electrolytic capacitors become damn and the ESR (Electric Static Resistance) is increased or the capacitance itself becomes less, 3 of them fail to work together.

This is rather technical but in order to confirm this, observe the signal IGf and UGt. When engine is running, both signals should be observed by an oscilloscope. If not, it means that ECU should be properly fixed. Using non genuine electrolytic capacitors are not always OK since they need special low ESR type long life capacitors.

I am mostly OK regarding ECU related affairs but I am sorry that I still have difficulties explaining things in English well. Hope you understand my explanations above.

blunden

I had exactly this problem after I changed the spark plugs and wires. The cat on the driver's side would glow red, and there was no power, like it was running on 4 cylinders.

After struggling with it for a while, I discovered it WAS running on 4 cylinders. The short wire from the distributor to the ignition coil on the driver's side rests against the engine block. It was shorting out. I used non-OEM wires, and this was the problem. The OEM wires are much better insulated. Put the old wire back on, and problem disappeared.

Dtwillis5

That's my exact problem, my car would run all day but no codes or power. After you found the short did it stop glowing red? Thanks for the tip where to start looking at.

blunden

Yes, I replaced the high tension sire with the original one and it works fine. You could just wrap extra insulation around thie wire, Even if that is not the problem, it sounds to me like there is no spark getting to the plugs on one side, so look at bad ignition coil, or cracked distributor cap. Let us know if/when you find the problem.