shoob

ill check the plug as well.

yes 105c. also looking at a 20mm .5 watt fan, a dremel, and a drill........to cool the ecu.

ive been scanning the interwebs and cant seem to find a 95 pinout, any assist?

SkulCracka

sure someone has a full service manual here they can send you the pdf for that page.

shoob

okay, checked the plug.....its good. so i had a thought of maybe its losing its 5v signal from the ecu to the sensors when the engine is put under load.....nope, it stays. so thought maybe ground the TPS its self incase its a mal ground.....nope. so i started the car and watched for voltage on vta while accelerating, its reading. so i decided to try continuity between the vta and a ground. using my meters i have one probe in vta with it running, and 1 probe on a good ground. everytime i ground the meter, the engine changes idle, and i can push the throttle to about 70% before i get the bog.

so i decided to jump the harness and go strait from vta to the ecu, no change.

this ghostly problem is becomming annoying.

i just long for the day i can floor my ls400 and hear the 1uz scream......like it did when i got it.

also on a side note. not being able to throttle over 60% im seeing 17.12 mpg city.

SkulCracka

plug wires? coil wires? coil p[acks themselves? has to be something that has been over looked. or just not caught in the first few rounds of going over it. clean the TPS?

SC400slide

iTrader: (11)

You haven't cleaned the TPS or replaced the plug wires? those would have been one of the first 2 things I would have done...

shoob

please read the whole thread. that was the first thing i done, along with plugs, rotors and caps. as for the TPS issue, ive tried 3 different ones. once again, when it falls on its face above 60% throttle, its pulling the injector signal offline, confirmed, by using an injector node, and timing light, meaning the timing light remains active in pulsing, while the injector node goes dark (no longer pulses)


so in conclusion, its something on the AFM or TPS circuit. the more i research, the more i find, that it may as well be another ecu issue, even with this different ecu, but like i said this ecu came out of a car just drove onto the yard, as i was stripping her, while she was still warm.

so im still on the hunt.

SC400slide

iTrader: (11)

My bad, Skulcracka had been on this thread a while so I assumed he knew if you didn't or did. Didn't you replace the AFM what, 3 times?

shoob

yes


its deffinitly another ecu with corrupted data. its the only thing that makes since. id squirt this car, if i could figure out how to control the auto trans.

LScowboyLS

VERY likely that your ECM needs new capacitors, please see my post here

junkyard ECM's need new caps as well!!

shoob

please, i dont expect anyone to read all 6 pages here, but at least glance through them before posting, and after you do, relay back to your thread, and veiw my post.

thanks for the consideration though.

cmedavid85

I solved my problems!!! It was my ecu and maf. I bought a reman ecu and maf and now it's running like a champ!

LScowboyLS

but which one was the problem, they don't both go out at once

shoob

right, the ecu will throw the AFM code, as well as TPS, and cam and crank sensors.. Reason being, when the ecu's start "going out" its the fuel map thats getting corrupted; ie: the AFM and TPS along with the cam, and crank sensors are what control the injector drivers. so the ecu doesnt recognize a "self" problem, all it recognizes is voltage, and ohms, so, when something not right, it automatically blames the sensors. Because thats the only troubleshoot codes its encrypted with. but, if you look in the FSM. under everyone of these obd1 codes that are displayed simultaniously, youll see, "bad ecu".

cobalt91

I wonder about the ecu's on autozone's web site...

cmedavid85

well the ecu was definately bad. the whole process of diagnosing this thing was crazy. i orginally thought it was just the maf sensor so i bought a used one off of ebay and put it in. that seemed to help but it was still far from drivable. with the little improvement i thought ok that maf is good and its the ecu. i suspected the ecu from the beginning but i wanted to be sure before putting a new one in. when i would turn my key to the on position (not running) i could hear the fuel pump constantly running and the injectors as well. wtf! it was flooding the engine so bad the fumes almost made me pass out while i was trouble shooting. the only way i could keep the car running was to keep my foot on the gas. so i got the brilliant idea of ordering a used ecu on ebay and i installed that one and it was still doing the same thing but not as bad. at this point i wanted to give up because i had changed every sensor on the car previously. i then bit it and bought a reman ecu from lexus for $1200. i know it sucked. i installed that one and the fuel pump stopped running continously when the car was not running but in on position. it would now start and run on its own but it ran like a pig and it would shutter and almost die at times. ok i made some progress. while the car was running i pulled the plug from the maf sensor and it really made no difference so i ended up biting it again and buying a $300 maf sensor from autozone and to my suprise it started right up and ran like the day i got it. very smooth. im so happy i finally found the issues but it was costly. if you have to buy an ecu, i would just buy a reman one and im sure if i would have looked around i could have found it much cheaper than the dealership. the same goes for the maf. if you have to replace it, then just go for a new reman sensor. it will save you trouble in the end. thanks guys for all the help and i hope this is able to help someone else.