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It would be the best to ask LScowboyLS the reason why but he is not here any more. But he is rather active on the Facebook and you probably can confirm it.
As far as I help different repair jobs requested by local shop owners and dealer managers, I only use the solder called RH60-1.0-A which has the ratio of 60% and 40% because I only have this one as my stock. This solder had been widely used among Japanese electronics industries until the RoHS has started. I have been in use of this to fix old electronics gears that use the old lead containing solder. I never had any problem using this 60/40 solder so far and what I can say is that we don't need to worry about the ratio too much as long as the lead is contained. The RH60-1.0-A contains the flux inside too and I don't use any additional flux. The most important thing is not to use non lead solders, I'd say.
Yamae,
i appreciate your quick response. Would you recommend me wearing anti static wrist band before opening the ECU to prevent damage to sensitive parts? Ill order some 60/40 solder as well.
i appreciate your quick response. Would you recommend me wearing anti static wrist band before opening the ECU to prevent damage to sensitive parts? Ill order some 60/40 solder as well.
thanks again
I definitely use a wrist strap to prevent the static charge problem. If it's not available, you will be able to use a thin copper wire and a series register of 100 to 1000 kilo ohms instead. All you need is to connect your body and the ground trace of the ECU board with it.
I definitely use a wrist strap to prevent the static charge problem. If it's not available, you will be able to use a thin copper wire and a series register of 100 to 1000 kilo ohms instead. All you need is to connect your body and the ground trace of the ECU board with it.
Got it. I will order the wrist strap today before opening this ecu. Thanks for your help sir. I'll give an update on my ecu repair.
Having major trouble getting the upper bracket on the ECM sorted.
Anyone who has actually done this on a 1998 know how to manipulate this upper bracket. You would think you could just slide the thing forward but that metal piece surrounding the bolt does not move enough to let it escape. It also doesn't seem to be attached to anything to take it out. At a loss.
Hi guys please don't destroy me too much, but this thread has a lot of useful info and I wanted to see if @Yamae could assist?
I have a 1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four WRC Edition. The car developed an inconsistent random misfire recently. Others had mentioned capacitors so I removed the ECU and found one that leaked. The others are still great. I looked for low ESR capacitors but the websites don't tell you if they are or not so it has me hesitant on purchasing some. These are the capacitors in my ECU. Can you help me locate the capacitors?
Hi guys please don't destroy me too much, but this thread has a lot of useful info and I wanted to see if @Yamae could assist?
I have a 1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four WRC Edition. The car developed an inconsistent random misfire recently. Others had mentioned capacitors so I removed the ECU and found one that leaked. The others are still great. I looked for low ESR capacitors but the websites don't tell you if they are or not so it has me hesitant on purchasing some. These are the capacitors in my ECU. Can you help me locate the capacitors?
Sorry that this is the LS400 Forum and we don't have the list for other models.
But about half of capacitors you need are listed in the post #1 of the thread. Other non listed capacitors for your Celica can be found searching for the Digikey.com. All you need to select is to find capacitors recommended series such as Rubycon ZLH/ZLJ, Panasonic FC/FR/FM, Chemi-Con KZM/KZH/KZE and Nichicon EP/PW/HW series.
Low ESR electrolytic capacitor are preferred and never use ceramic capacitors to avoid the phase rotation/oscillation problem.
Sorry that this is the LS400 Forum and we don't have the list for other models.
But about half of capacitors you need are listed in the post #1 of the thread. Other non listed capacitors for your Celica can be found searching for the Digikey.com. All you need to select is to find capacitors recommended series such as Rubycon ZLH/ZLJ, Panasonic FC/FR/FM, Chemi-Con KZM/KZH/KZE and Nichicon EP/PW/HW series.
Low ESR electrolytic capacitor are preferred and never use ceramic capacitors to avoid the phase rotation/oscillation problem.
@Yamae thank you for the reply. Looks like my capacitors are all on the list. However, the capacitors you posted seem to have a higher voltage rating. Is it okay to run higher voltage capacitors as long as the microfarads are the same? If so, is there a specific voltage range not to exceed? Thanks for the help.
@Yamae thank you for the reply. Looks like my capacitors are all on the list. However, the capacitors you posted seem to have a higher voltage rating. Is it okay to run higher voltage capacitors as long as the microfarads are the same? If so, is there a specific voltage range not to exceed? Thanks for the help.
The higher voltage caps on that list are fine to use.
I definitely use a wrist strap to prevent the static charge problem. If it's not available, you will be able to use a thin copper wire and a series register of 100 to 1000 kilo ohms instead. All you need is to connect your body and the ground trace of the ECU board with it.
hey Yamae,
so i opened up my ecu after i received my antistatic bracelet and wrote down the caps i need. For my 95 it was the exact number of caps specified in the first post. But as i was going to order the caps, LScowboy listed 100uf with 35v and 50v types. Will the 35v and 50v work in place of the 10v which are in my ecu? Thanks for your help. Next step is to order the caps.
@Yamae thank you for the reply. Looks like my capacitors are all on the list. However, the capacitors you posted seem to have a higher voltage rating. Is it okay to run higher voltage capacitors as long as the microfarads are the same? If so, is there a specific voltage range not to exceed? Thanks for the help.
It is mostly OK to use a higher voltage one as long as the mechanical size is OK. Higher the voltage, bigger the size is. The word mostly here means that too high is not fully OK. I'd say up to 5 times more would be OK but higher than that might cause a minor problem which is called "goes into a minor sleep mode". This means that the capacitor is not fully functional due to the lesser chemical reaction inside. An electrolytic aluminum capacitor needs to do the chemical reaction inside by the applied voltage and a too high voltage rating one does not react well enough because the voltage / thickness is lesser. Simply to say, to use a 50V one instead of a 10V is acceptable.
It is mostly OK to use a higher voltage one as long as the mechanical size is OK. Higher the voltage, bigger the size is. The word mostly here means that too high is not fully OK. I'd say up to 5 times more would be OK but higher than that might cause a minor problem which is called "goes into a minor sleep mode". This means that the capacitor is not fully functional due to the lesser chemical reaction inside. An electrolytic aluminum capacitor needs to do the chemical reaction inside by the applied voltage and a too high voltage rating one does not react well enough because the voltage / thickness is lesser. Simply to say, to use a 50V one instead of a 10V is acceptable.
@Yamae good to hear. The only capacitor that I increased voltage rating 5x is the 220uF/10v to 220uF/50v. All the others are well below. I appreciate your assistance with this. I just ordered all capacitors from digikey. Looking forward to the fix.
@Yamae good to hear. The only capacitor that I increased voltage rating 5x is the 220uF/10v to 220uF/50v. All the others are well below. I appreciate your assistance with this. I just ordered all capacitors from digikey. Looking forward to the fix.
-Matt
You are welcome, Matt. I hope your 94 Toyota Celica GT-Four WRC Edition will run good soon. Your car is very rare and precious and you definitely need to fix it.
Speaking of Celica in 90s, don't you have any problem on the tachometer?
I have encountered a failed tachometer problem on a 93 Celica GT here in Japan. The problem was caused by 2 failed electrolytic capacitors. You can find the detail at my blog below writing for my good old friends in abroad. They don't understand Japanese and I have to write it in English although I still have difficulties to speak it. https://blog.hatena.ne.jp/mae_yas/ma...06613380506085
You are welcome, Matt. I hope your 94 Toyota Celica GT-Four WRC Edition will run good soon. Your car is very rare and precious and you definitely need to fix it.
Speaking of Celica in 90s, don't you have any problem on the tachometer?
I have encountered a failed tachometer problem on a 93 Celica GT here in Japan. The problem was caused by 2 failed electrolytic capacitors. You can find the detail at my blog below writing for my good old friends in abroad. They don't understand Japanese and I have to write it in English although I still have difficulties to speak it. https://blog.hatena.ne.jp/mae_yas/ma...06613380506085
I haven't experienced any issues with the speedometer. Not sure if something changed in '94, but I'll ask the others who have the car if they experienced any problems. Also, I tried to view your blog but need credentials to sign in. No worries, on the language barrier I'll figure it out. If you want to communicate further without continuing on this thread you can email me at mattvillescas@gmail.com.
The guy i have repairing my ecu asked this question.
From the electronic repair guy
"What is the application? If there's extreme temperature cycling and initial lead free solder there may be hot touch-up points for the board. "
what should i tell him? I am planning on having the guy do the repair this weekend. Thanks for your help.
The guy i have repairing my ecu asked this question.
From the electronic repair guy
"What is the application? If there's extreme temperature cycling and initial lead free solder there may be hot touch-up points for the board. "
what should i tell him? I am planning on having the guy do the repair this weekend. Thanks for your help.
The lead free solder was not used initially when your LS400 was manufactured and you need to use a lead containing solder which I recommended.
The lead free solder was started to be used when the RoHS regulation was about started.
12-18-19 | 04:39 AM
