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Thanks! I just called Driftmotion and spoke with him. Nice guy. He said he no longer offers the service to replace the capacitors for Lexus/Toyota. He said that as time went on the computers were more and more corroded and irreparable and he did not feel like it was a successful service to offer. Mine looks really good (not corroded) but he does not do it anymore.
Yes,their online reputation is sky high positive.Good to know,thanks.
Yamae do you have a new link for your blog that originally on yahoo on ECM repair?
What is the list of problems that leaking capacitors cause in a 1st gen LS
Yamae do you have a new link for your blog that originally on yahoo on ECM repair?
What is the list of problems that leaking capacitors cause in a 1st gen LS
Yahoo Japan is not providing the blog service any more and sorry that there's no more my blog there.
Regarding a 1st gen LS, you can find the list at the post #1 on this thread.
Yahoo Japan is not providing the blog service any more and sorry that there's no more my blog there.
Regarding a 1st gen LS, you can find the list at the post #1 on this thread.
do you have a copy of the blog the are
I remember there was a long list of issues that a bad ECM caused and I wanted that they are not all listed on this site.
I remember there were many issues listed such as
AC or AC Actuator
maybe something with the Dash lights
I think there was window issue no going down etc
Would the electronic trip odometer or mechanical odometer stop because of the computer
do you have a copy of the blog the are
I remember there was a long list of issues that a bad ECM caused and I wanted that they are not all listed on this site.
I remember there were many issues listed such as
AC or AC Actuator
maybe something with the Dash lights
I think there was window issue no going down etc
Would the electronic trip odometer or mechanical odometer stop because of the computer
The list is the same as the post #1 of the thread.
Regarding other questions, sorry that I have no idea to answer without checking the car precisely.
LScowboyLS, Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I have a '95 SC300 (ECU 89661-24370) with weird issues, tried chasing each down, then saw your wonderful explanation. I've soldered a lot, just didn't want to unsolder 120 pins to plugs, unsolder all 5 screws holding bottom board, just too easy for me to destroy something....So, Pulled ECU, coaxed covers open with #10-24 screws & hair dryer with intake partly blocked, and saw light damage with caps on bottom board. Sent out to SIA Electronics for new caps (7)...Also could send to Tanin (they repaired my Climate Control box, works perfectly). Installed Tanin LED "needle boards" in Tacho/Speedo needles, work OK, a bit pixelated...
This is my 'practice' car, 180 k miles, 'outside' parked car, has paint, leather, other issues....
Also have a '93 SC300 w/80k mi, a '93 SC400 w/78k mi, and a '96 SC400 w/120k mi. These cars were, and are garage kept. Love the 1UZ-FE and the 2JZ-GE engines. Glass of water on the 1UZ intake manifold is awesome!
Again, thank you SO much for your expose' on these. Will likely send out ECU's on my other 3 to prevent future issues...about 200 bucks each, no flash programming, etc. required.
I found this thread because I have a 95 SC400 which had an intermittent speedometer (sometimes it registered zero until a few miles down the road) hard shifting, Stalling when stopping from speed (symptoms indicated Torque converter clutch was failing to release), but those were liveable issues.
Recently the tachometer started showing signs of acting wild (intermittent zero reading) and at the same time the Coolant temperature sensor began reading inaccurately, as well as the car started being in limp mode.
Limp mode is the issue I'd like to solve here, as I can live with the other problems until I put together a standalone and manual swap.
I pulled the ECU to find two bad caps, and I replaced them with the correct caps, and reinstalled the ECU. I'm still experiencing the same symptoms however, so I would guess that though the caps were failing and beginning to leak, that that was not the cause of the symptoms I'm experiencing and now need to hunt down the bad sensor/ ground. Anybody dealt with this before?
[QUOTE=Ochiba;10956300]Apologies if this was answered before.
@Ochiba,
May I suggest that other capacitors can be bad, even before they leak? Hard to see if caps on top board have leaked, due to gravity. Age and temperature make those type of electrolytic caps go bad. (with the chemical stuff inside).
All advice I hear from experienced persons (I'm a newbee SC owner, but have 4 SC's, and am learning fast), is REPLACE THEM ALL with low ESR units from proven Japanese manufacturers. I found bad caps in a '95 SC300, and will preemptively have ECM's recapped in '93 SC300, '96 SC400, and '93 SC400, even without waiting for weirdo problems popping up. Attached shows systems involved with ECU. I've done soldering, but don't trust myself on these, about $180 + postage for professional job.
I did replace them all, which is the normal thing to do I think if you've got the board out and the soldering iron in hand. There was a little pad damage on the capacitor that had begun to leak, but nothing that flooding that area with solder couldn't fix.
I did some more searching around, and found this thread which may hold the answer since my symptoms match.
Started car, rough idle. Unplug either igniter and the car stalls.
Unplug the driver's side coil from the distributor and no change to idle. The coil on that side is not firing. I will replace and report.
Also noticed oil pooling around the spark plug connector near the back of the head on the driver's side. If it's anything like a subaru, I need to replace the valve cover gasket soon before a misfire develops.
I would like to get the capacitors of my '99 LS400 get replaced. I don't really have issues with the car (except that the speedometer didn't work once for a couple of minutes).
I have time to order the parts. Do you have an advice who could do the replacement in the Ft Myers/Florida area?
It's not too bad, since you're in Fl, you have less static charge issues. I did mine while we had dry desert air blowing through, and had to run the humidifier non-stop.
as long as you have the time, tools, and patience, the job is pretty easy.
That said, it was my driver's side coil that had packed up. Replaced it and I'm back on the road.
Like many of you here, I also had dashboard problems on my '49 LS400 and replacing capacitors fixed most of them.
The lazy temperature gauge, however, was a purely mechanical problem. The plastic needle is actuated by a metal axis. Since the end over the axis was cracked, the needle was slipping and either did not move at all, or moved 1-2 divisions with a fully warm engine. A droplet of glue fixed the issue.
Be careful when handling the assembly. You do not want to damage the two tiny spiral springs.
11-18-20, 06:21 PM
