Yamae

Thank you Randy87 for the information about the latest availability of 10uF 50V.

Today I added Rubycon's RX 50RX3010M8X11.5 at the post #1 of this thread.

Regarding the idle issue, one idea is to wait until the the ECU finishes to study your driving habits. It often takes a week or more both driving in the city and highway every day.

Randy87

​ Thank you for such a quick reply, Yamea. WOW I didn't consider that it may take that long. I had seen that some guys had mentioned it needing time to figure out how to idle. I've only put maybe 10 miles on it but plenty of idle time. I'll have to buy some tires and get it licenced then I'll put a couple hundred miles on it. I work from home so it will take a while but I will try to remember to report back so that others may benefit from my experience. I have left the ECU exposed and I wanted to get an (especially yours) opinion on the viability of the 50ZL10MEFC5X7 before I coat my repair in conformal coating and put the dash back together. But since the 50RX3010M8X11.5 is your preferred option and I see that they're ready to ship now from digikey, I'll go ahead and order some and put them in, to be safe. The rx looks to have better temp rating and life expectancy anyway. I can't believe it didn't come up in my search filter on mouser.

Dave2spd

I would adjust the throttle setting at idle if closed too far computer may be trying to correct the idle & end up too high!

NickDubbinSC3

This thread has been awesome and I learned a ton. Funny cause leaking capacitors can also be found in clusters.

ANYWAY, I have a question as I’ve had great success fixing GTE ECU’s but GE has been my downfall. So far I’ve made 2 GE ECU’s run and they didn’t before but they have a misfire due to the shorted injector drivers.

I cannot for the life of me find the correct ones. (NEC C4554 k22). Copy and pasting into Google comes up as similar part numbers with the only difference being “K 22”.

So, does anyone know the specifications for them or which ones I can use?

Yamae

Since this thread is about the ECU-leaking capacitor of LS400 series and you'd better to ask your question to a thread related to an injector driver of your model.

Regarding "k22", the only thing I know is that it's an identification of a lot or a batch of NEC as is used like this way.

One more thing I'd better to inform you is that a failure of an injector driver is often caused by the short-circuited injector's winding coil. In this case, the replaced transistor will fail again.

NickDubbinSC3

Thank you for that info! I’ve tried at least searching since your suggestion (just so I don’t ask an already answered question) and you were the only person to really mention anything about those injector drivers.

I figured this was the best place to ask based on the cumulative knowledge in this thread. Learned two new things already. I’ll be sure to look into asking there if need be.

This winding coil you mentioned, is this located in the ecu or elsewhere? I’m currently running a Lexus Reman ECU and do not have any issues on my personal car unless I swap either of these two ECU’s I’ve worked on in. It’s just just for a short 5-7 seconds to prevent any issues.


Also, thank you for the reply and Happy Holidays!

paulo57509

The injector winding coil is in the injector itself. It's part of the electromagnet that opens the injector.

NickDubbinSC3

You guys are awesome! Thank you! I had this feeling it was in the injector itself but wasn’t too sure.

I’ll report back if I have any success.

sc2dave

relentless is overpriced. You can have anyone that knows how to solder good do the job. i had a tv repair shop change them all out for 60.00 and he did a great job!!

Margate330

This is true if someone only needs caps replaced or basic stuff but plz don't anyone expect a TV repair shop to go any further than that on ECM's.

Why? It's not their specialty and they are not "set up for it" but they can be very efficient on diagnosing & repairing TV's since they do it everyday.

Could they do it?
Maybe but they won't make any money at it for reasons above so they won't, just caps only for the most part.

To go any further a person will be better off going with someone who has invested their time and resources to specialize in that item, as in- that exact item. 😀

Reason why is they will know the common failures and hopefully have the skills to go deeper than caps.

sc2dave

I agree. Mine only needed caps

Soarer59

And your $60 repair will hold up how long? Did the TV repair repair shop use the right caps? Did they clean the board? Did they repair the trace lines that were rooted out by the bad capacitors? Time will tell is all I'm going to say to you.

Soarer59

Said the person who had to have someone else do the repair for them. You'll see.

sc2dave

My 60 Dollar repair will hold up for a long time! I bought the RIGHT caps, as mentioned in the beginning of this thread.The board was clean and whoever said the trace lines were bad??? Just because you got suckered into paying Hundreds for your repair don't mean mine came out bad. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to do this kind of work. This guy has over 35 years repairing circuit boards, soldering, etc.

ghanisJDMCelsior

Hello all! I have a 1994 2nd gen Toyota celsior(non vvti). My current ecu is the 89661-50241. It has been refurbished once by Relentless with brand new capacitors as previously it had leaked completely. Car was running fine after the refurbishing. But ever since last year the performance of the car has dropped, gear shifting is hard, the AC vents blow uncontrollably sometimes and sometimes it works perfectly, I’ve had the car stall after long drives, the noise has increased a lot and in general it just feels very inconsistent. I got rid of the stalling issue, the cam shaft sensor wire harness was loose. Oh and my RPM on cold start is up to 1800 and takes a lot of time to get to 750.

now my question is would the 89661-50380 replacing the 89661-50241, help my case? I did buy one and tried to install it, when the car cranks, it sounds like metal on metal war is going on and it won’t start. Mechanic says the ecu is not for this car but on the system it shows it is. Now I have found a link to Toyota and they will send me a brand new 89661-50380 ecu, but it’s going to cost me 3k USD and I don’t know if I should take the plunge.

if Mr. @Yamae could chime in and give me some advise, that would be highly appreciated.