LScowboyLS

here is an example from one of our Club Lexus members who got an ECU that has incorrect caps installed

there are some NRWA series caps by NIC and some Lelons - none of these are the correct low-ESR type

as expected, this car is having issues!

please make sure not to deviate from the exact capacitors Yamae and I have recommended in post #1 of this thread, or you Lexus may run worse with its new capacitors, rather than better!

Yamae

Oh, Yes. Lelon has bad reputations among PC builders too.
Also the soldering work of this board is not acceptable to me.
Using these non low ESR capacitors will cause you the problem quickly again.

Yamae

I understood what you meant by watching this.

Why don't you guys who succeeded to fix the ECU reading this thread to help children as Hayley my friend supports.

LScowboyLS

as bad as using a poor brand such as Lelon is, what is the far greater error is that these are not low ESR, high ripple rejection capacitors! - so they are really as bad or worse than the leaking caps you are replacing!

dhhd

I've been told by a few electronic specialists at the government defense contractor I work at that the solder suckers can lift pads. Stating that solder suckers can heat the pad too much and lift the pads. They are recommending solder wick. Thoughts? Opinions?

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Wick is slow though it does have a place. The proper temp for the iron also plays a part, neither to hot or to low a temp. I used a solder sucker when doing mine and the results were clean with quick removal. I want to limit the duration of heat when working on a board so getting the part out quickly and cleanly is important.

LScowboyLS

I actually don't use any kind of solder removal method for this job - not necessary

and your friend is right about the pads being easy to mess up, due to desoldering tools and many other problems, such as too much heat for too long - or wallowing out the holes too much with the safety pin

I have now switched to this ritzy tool and no longer use a safety pin

dhhd

ok great thanks, I am literally have everything all laid out and am about to do the job. Thanks for the quick replies!!

python

iTrader: (4)

admins allow this..put someones name and address right here in front of everyone!

aomdedude1

Well aparently the both of us did this job today at the same time! lol

Only issue is I never finished yet. I ordered the wrong capacitors as I noticed today when I opened up the ECU.

What I bought:
15μF 63V
47μF 100V
100 μF 35V
330 μF 50V
10 μF 16V
10 μF 50V
4.7 μF 25V


What I needede:
10 μF 50V
100 μF 10V
220 μF 16V
15 μF 35V
47 μF 63V

(My car is a 1994 ls400)

So now I have to order again and wait for them to come in. Since I had the time I did decide to go ahead and take out the old ones. I noticed the old capacitors were just slightly leaking from the top and It was hard to tell at first. I initially thought they were completely fine until I noticed the oily wet fluid at the top.



Diagram I made for myself:






Old ones out:


I put everything back in the ECU housing/case and am about to order the appropriate capacitors shortly. This time I will double check! haha

LScowboyLS

OK, I am confused, did you order using the links I provided in the recommended capacitors section in post #1 of this thread?

it is OK if the voltage is higher than the original, but you must use the exact capacitors that I linked to - Yamae and I have tried to list all of the acceptable capacitors, in both brand and series

please list exactly what you bought, including brand and series, and where you bought them!

aomdedude1

These are exactly what I bought, all from Digi-key. I purchased 3 of each. To be honest, I am also a little confused. lol So your saying it is perfectly okay for me to use capacitors with a voltage that is HIGHER than what I took out? If so than it looks like I have almost all the capacitors I will need.

1. 15µF 63v KZE Series
2. 47µF 100v KZE Series
3. 100µF 35v ZLH Series
4. 330µF 50v KZE Series
5. 10µF 16v EEA-GA Series
6. 10µF 50v KMG Series
7. 4.7µF 25v KMG Series
8. 10µF 50v KY Series

From Mouser:

1. 10µF 50v KZE Series (I messed up this order. I looked at the picture instead of reading the words. The picture says "22µF 80v" my mistake!)
2. 47uF 35v BP Series

The only one that I don't have is the 220µF. I'll have to get that.
The reason I ordered all these other capacitors is because I plan on doing my instrument cluster too. The lights are starting to dim out and my steering wheel no longer comes out at me when I put the key in the ignition.

So just to triple check, it IS OK to put in caps with higher voltage? Any downsides to this??

LScowboyLS

No downside to higher voltage, only upside

I still am at a loss on how you can buy the wrong capacitors using the links in post #1

the link takes you to the exact capacitor you need in each case, so how you bought a 4.7 uF is beyond me!

and whu would you buy 3 of each??? - I have the correct quantities listed!

and why did you buy a 330 uF ??? or a 10uF 16V or a 47uF 35v

to review - here is what your car uses:

Qty. 2 of 10μF - 50v
Qty. 2 of 15μF - 35v
Qty. 1 of 47μF - 63v
Qty. 2 of 100μF - 10v
Qty. 1 of 220μF - 16v

higher voltages are fine, as long as they are from my links

LScowboyLS

as far as instrument cluster, you might want to post a list of those original caps and get some capacitor recommendations - or some pics!

aomdedude1

I bought 3 of each just to have some extras on hand. Just in case something crazy happens like I drop one and step on it / lose it or something extreme along those lines. As for why I bought the wrong ones? I have no clue!! Maybe I was drunk? haha...

Well I remember I was in a rush when I placed the order so I probably just copied things down wrong.

Anyway, I will go and order the correct caps using your links on page one. I'll actually read the words carefully this time!

Thank you LS!

(EDIT: The 4.7uF and a few others were for the instrument cluster)