671france

I was trying to order the capacitors for my 1990 Ls400 but when I was on the nippon chemi-can site its was asking me for all this other information that I could not find here. Can somebody be kind enough as to telling or showing me the steps to ordering the right capacitors for my car?

Thanks

LScowboyLS

just use the handy links in the currently recommended capacitors section of post #1 of this thread

671france

Thanks man I didnt even spot the parts numbers....maybe I should look harder lol...

sayow

Can one of the fine experts here confirm that the ECU "could" be the cause of the following issues on the $450 dollar LS I saved from the scrap yard:

1. RPM gauge not working - not dead at zero, but never goes above 5-600rpm

2. Fuel gauge not working and fuel light on regardless of fuel amount in tank

3. VSC inoperable - no light no nothing just seems dead

4. Extreme loss of power (as in it take 30 seconds to reach 60mph but no smoke and idles great)

5. Heater not working (AC works great)

6. Dash gauge needles ALL have a uniform lack of light on the tips


Pulling the ECU this weekend

LScowboyLS

this sounds like a case of ECU caps and dash cluster caps!

except that neither of those would affect the heater, so that is likely a separate problem, what is the heater doing or not doing?

sayow

Just not heating

AC works great, fan works great but when i switch to heat it just stays cool, the seller said it would work occasionally so I assume that does not mean the heater core has been leaking and is blocked off. That lead me to thinking ECU but it could be a heater valve (assuming these have one like my Jag and Vette do).

I should add that the AC/Clock display on the unit has the LCDs blown out, they light up but with the LCD blown you cant read anything. I guess that might happen from being in the sun too long. Not sure if that could have effected the actual heating function.

LScowboyLS

yes, the heater issue and the LCD display are neither one symptoms of bad capacitors, but the bad loss of power is, and all of those cluster issues sounds like bad cluster caps

the heater could be the heater control valve, or an duct door not operating correctly or even a thermostat if the car is running to cool, what is the temp on the gauge? - how is the coolant level and condition?

AHJ

A flush and refill fixed the heating in my 96 LS.

There are supposed to be 3 drains for the radiator fluid but I could only find one.

671france

Ok so I was able to locate the right capacitors on the nippon chemi-con site but how the hell do you order them?!

LScowboyLS

once again:

just use the handy links in the CURRENTLY RECOMMENDED CAPACITORS section of post #1 of this thread

igotalexus

I'm doing some practicing and seem to be getting better at getting the caps off more and more quickly. In my practicing, I'm finding I have a couple questions that may be beneficial to have answered here.

What temperature is recommended for adequately having enough heat, but minimizing the time needed to prevent damaging other components? (I have a Hakko 888D)

While trying to avoid solder suckers for fear of plate removal/damage, what's the best way to remove solder that's left in the through-hole after removing a cap?

Thanks for all the great info and thorough instructions,
Paul

sayow

I will try that as soon as I get the ECU repaired... no way I am pulling the dash on this one so half lit needles and no fuel/rpm gauge will have to remain

LScowboyLS

pulling the dash??

you just pull the cluster, takes 5 minutes if you are dexterous!

LScowboyLS

725-750 F

safety pin (apply heat from other side while inserting)

sayow

Well that sounds LESS painful, I will start researching. You ever move to Missouri Cowboy and I will keep you busy