DIY: Integrated Garage Door Opener
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DIY: Integrated Garage Door Opener
DISCLAIMER: This modification is to be followed and used at the sole risk of the individual performing it. When performing any modifications, there will always be the risk of damage to the car. MODIFY AT YOUR OWN RISK. Read the procedure carefully and be sure that you feel comfortable with the modification before you begin. Now on to the fun stuff!!
Garage Door Opener Remote: This is the original garage door opener remote. The garage door opener is made by Chamberlain and this particular unit has the Intellicode code hopping security feature. Opening the remote was easy and involved removing a few screws on the back of the case.
Remote Circuit Board (Top): This is a shot of the actual circuit board inside the case of the remote. The black button is the one I tapped for use in the car.
Remote Circuit Board (Bottom): This is the bottom shot of the circuit board. This is a close up of where I soldered the two wires for the push button switch that I used to the bottom of the circuit board. Be careful not to burn the circuit board when applying the solder. On the other end is how I soldered the wires to the push button switch. Now is a good time to test it if it works properly.
Switch Used for This Install: This is the switch I used for the install. It is a simple push button type switch. The cost was less than $3 from Radio Shack.
Circuit Board Under the Dash: The first picture below is where the circuit board will be installed under the dash. I used some hot glue and a wire (notice in the first picture how I adhere the wire) to keep it in place in there. The second picture is a shot of the finished product tucked inside the wire to keep it still.
Removing the Under Dash Cover: It's an easy removal. Remove three philip head screws, once they're all three are removed, pull cover downward to snap the ring off of the steering column, then remove the OBD (see first picture below) by turning it counter clockwise, then remove the lamp (see picture below) by turning it counter clockwise.
Switch Assembly: This is a shot of the soldered wires to the new garage opener switch.
Under Dash Cover Assembly: The first picture is a shot of the under dash assembly. Notice I marked a spot to be drilled. The second picture is a shot of the under dash cover, drilled, and enlarged using a dremel. The third picture is a shot of the under dash installed with finished new garage opener. I chose this area because it's hidden but very accessible.
There you have it!
Garage Door Opener Remote: This is the original garage door opener remote. The garage door opener is made by Chamberlain and this particular unit has the Intellicode code hopping security feature. Opening the remote was easy and involved removing a few screws on the back of the case.
Remote Circuit Board (Top): This is a shot of the actual circuit board inside the case of the remote. The black button is the one I tapped for use in the car.
Remote Circuit Board (Bottom): This is the bottom shot of the circuit board. This is a close up of where I soldered the two wires for the push button switch that I used to the bottom of the circuit board. Be careful not to burn the circuit board when applying the solder. On the other end is how I soldered the wires to the push button switch. Now is a good time to test it if it works properly.
Switch Used for This Install: This is the switch I used for the install. It is a simple push button type switch. The cost was less than $3 from Radio Shack.
Circuit Board Under the Dash: The first picture below is where the circuit board will be installed under the dash. I used some hot glue and a wire (notice in the first picture how I adhere the wire) to keep it in place in there. The second picture is a shot of the finished product tucked inside the wire to keep it still.
Removing the Under Dash Cover: It's an easy removal. Remove three philip head screws, once they're all three are removed, pull cover downward to snap the ring off of the steering column, then remove the OBD (see first picture below) by turning it counter clockwise, then remove the lamp (see picture below) by turning it counter clockwise.
Switch Assembly: This is a shot of the soldered wires to the new garage opener switch.
Under Dash Cover Assembly: The first picture is a shot of the under dash assembly. Notice I marked a spot to be drilled. The second picture is a shot of the under dash cover, drilled, and enlarged using a dremel. The third picture is a shot of the under dash installed with finished new garage opener. I chose this area because it's hidden but very accessible.
There you have it!
Last edited by E36M3; 10-22-12 at 11:45 AM.
#4
BahHumBug
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kudos for the diy, but not my first choice since you get only one opener and will haveto tear the dash apart to replace the battery.
A better choice i think is for '95-97 owners to buy a '98-00 sunroof control/dome lamp, with the integrated Homelink controller. This allows for hardwiring the power, 3 opener (equivalent) control, and a much more finished installation.
earlier '89-94 owners could retrofit a homelink into their vehicles using in-dash, mirror, or visor mounts.
A better choice i think is for '95-97 owners to buy a '98-00 sunroof control/dome lamp, with the integrated Homelink controller. This allows for hardwiring the power, 3 opener (equivalent) control, and a much more finished installation.
earlier '89-94 owners could retrofit a homelink into their vehicles using in-dash, mirror, or visor mounts.
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kudos for the diy, but not my first choice since you get only one opener and will haveto tear the dash apart to replace the battery.
A better choice i think is for '95-97 owners to buy a '98-00 sunroof control/dome lamp, with the integrated Homelink controller. This allows for hardwiring the power, 3 opener (equivalent) control, and a much more finished installation.
earlier '89-94 owners could retrofit a homelink into their vehicles using in-dash, mirror, or visor mounts.
A better choice i think is for '95-97 owners to buy a '98-00 sunroof control/dome lamp, with the integrated Homelink controller. This allows for hardwiring the power, 3 opener (equivalent) control, and a much more finished installation.
earlier '89-94 owners could retrofit a homelink into their vehicles using in-dash, mirror, or visor mounts.
The last time I replaced the battery was over four years ago. The bright side is you only spend $3 bux.
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I agree! If you're renting or selling, you have a choice to get a new remote or open it up and just heat up the soldered contacts and pull the wires out completely. It's very easy. If you can solder then you can unsolder.
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