Airbox mod (new thread)
12-15-02, 06:26 AM
#31
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Took air filter all the way out. Just the black back cover connected to MAF opening.
At night - air probably 65 F.
Ran a 8.3 sec 0 - 60!
After a few mors runs up and back the hot air was getting to the engine.. went up to 8.5 again.
At night - air probably 65 F.
Ran a 8.3 sec 0 - 60!
After a few mors runs up and back the hot air was getting to the engine.. went up to 8.5 again.
Last edited by Lvangundy; 12-15-02 at 06:27 AM.
12-16-02, 03:42 AM
#32
Originally posted by Lvangundy
Took air filter all the way out. Just the black back cover connected to MAF opening.
At night - air probably 65 F.
Ran a 8.3 sec 0 - 60!
After a few mors runs up and back the hot air was getting to the engine.. went up to 8.5 again.
Took air filter all the way out. Just the black back cover connected to MAF opening.
At night - air probably 65 F.
Ran a 8.3 sec 0 - 60!
After a few mors runs up and back the hot air was getting to the engine.. went up to 8.5 again.
First run I did was with PWR ETC on and the darn thing redlined at 6150 rpm-6200rpm whoa:eek: First time I have seen my car do that. Is it possible or was I just imaginning things? lol...
Probably just seeing things, but the rpm meter did go into the red, Im pretty postive.Shut down after the first run because I zipped by a Supra and he thought I was baiting him. Made a right into the neighborhood and U-turned back around and headed home.
Last edited by LOTC; 12-16-02 at 04:32 AM.
12-18-02, 01:02 AM
#33
Originally posted by E-Dogg
Just did the mod, but I put a heat shield, removed the metal screening from the stock MAF, and lefted the stock plastic air duct on top of the radiator. The car felt faster, but I only did one run at night. Dunno if removing the metal screening from the stock MAF will cause any big problems?
First run I did was with PWR ETC on and the darn thing redlined at 6150 rpm-6200rpm whoa:eek: First time I have seen my car do that. Is it possible or was I just imaginning things? lol... Probably just seeing things, but the rpm meter did go into the red, Im pretty postive.
Shut down after the first run because I zipped by a Supra and he thought I was baiting him. Made a right into the neighborhood and U-turned back around and headed home.
Just did the mod, but I put a heat shield, removed the metal screening from the stock MAF, and lefted the stock plastic air duct on top of the radiator. The car felt faster, but I only did one run at night. Dunno if removing the metal screening from the stock MAF will cause any big problems?
First run I did was with PWR ETC on and the darn thing redlined at 6150 rpm-6200rpm whoa:eek: First time I have seen my car do that. Is it possible or was I just imaginning things? lol...
Probably just seeing things, but the rpm meter did go into the red, Im pretty postive.Shut down after the first run because I zipped by a Supra and he thought I was baiting him. Made a right into the neighborhood and U-turned back around and headed home.
Just finished my heat shield blocking off all hot air coming from the engine.
Last edited by LOTC; 12-18-02 at 12:24 PM.
12-18-02, 12:25 PM
#35
Originally posted by Lvangundy
Talking about that little gold metal grid style piece that fits into the inside of the black plastic piece conenected to the metal MAF pipe?
too many words there..you know what I mean?
Talking about that little gold metal grid style piece that fits into the inside of the black plastic piece conenected to the metal MAF pipe?
too many words there..you know what I mean?
Last edited by LOTC; 12-18-02 at 12:26 PM.
12-18-02, 12:58 PM
#36
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Didn't think that piece would have uch an effect on the airflow.
The gaps between the frame 'sqaures' are pretty big and that piece is only 2" x 2" or something.
I'll get a pic later today...and try pulling it out just to see how the car runs. It'l stall right ?
The gaps between the frame 'sqaures' are pretty big and that piece is only 2" x 2" or something.
I'll get a pic later today...and try pulling it out just to see how the car runs. It'l stall right ?
01-01-03, 05:09 PM
#37
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Hi,
I'm new to Lexus world and just got my '95 LS400 (2G then I take it ?) on 12/31/02, but I might be able to shed some light on this thread since I come from Diamond Star Motor cars scenery (still have two of them).
Anyway, that grid little thing is commonly called "air flow straightener". I have not checked out the filter/MAF sensor on my LS, but if you said it's a "grid thing", then it's a Karmann Vortex MAF sensor.
The way Karmann Vortex works is by counting the frequency generated by passing air. The more air passes through, the higher is the frequency. This frequency is caused by disturbance in the air flow. You should see something protruding into the air flow path. Moving on, this set up needs a "straight" (laminar) air flow. This is where the straightener comes in. Take this out and the frequency won't be generated in a correct manner and thus the check engine light. The straightener might pose some restriction, but the MAF won't work properly without it.
BTW, I think this is a great thread. I'm looking forward to squeezing "hidden" horsepower in this engine. I already have a plan to contruct my CAI setup (just need to find MAF adapter and properly-sized K&N open element) and you guys' ideas about the enclosure will most likely be used.
Another BTW. I'm planning to replace the hose/pipe between the MAF and throttle body (TB). I saw something about PVC pipe, but I think I will use either straight piping and rubber elbows or straight radiator hose and pipe elbows. Any ideas/insights ? Thanks.
TFW
I'm new to Lexus world and just got my '95 LS400 (2G then I take it ?) on 12/31/02, but I might be able to shed some light on this thread since I come from Diamond Star Motor cars scenery (still have two of them).
Anyway, that grid little thing is commonly called "air flow straightener". I have not checked out the filter/MAF sensor on my LS, but if you said it's a "grid thing", then it's a Karmann Vortex MAF sensor.
The way Karmann Vortex works is by counting the frequency generated by passing air. The more air passes through, the higher is the frequency. This frequency is caused by disturbance in the air flow. You should see something protruding into the air flow path. Moving on, this set up needs a "straight" (laminar) air flow. This is where the straightener comes in. Take this out and the frequency won't be generated in a correct manner and thus the check engine light. The straightener might pose some restriction, but the MAF won't work properly without it.
BTW, I think this is a great thread. I'm looking forward to squeezing "hidden" horsepower in this engine. I already have a plan to contruct my CAI setup (just need to find MAF adapter and properly-sized K&N open element) and you guys' ideas about the enclosure will most likely be used.
Another BTW. I'm planning to replace the hose/pipe between the MAF and throttle body (TB). I saw something about PVC pipe, but I think I will use either straight piping and rubber elbows or straight radiator hose and pipe elbows. Any ideas/insights ? Thanks.
TFW
01-01-03, 11:41 PM
#38
Originally posted by TomWahjudi
Hi,
I'm new to Lexus world and just got my '95 LS400 (2G then I take it ?) on 12/31/02, but I might be able to shed some light on this thread since I come from Diamond Star Motor cars scenery (still have two of them).
Anyway, that grid little thing is commonly called "air flow straightener". I have not checked out the filter/MAF sensor on my LS, but if you said it's a "grid thing", then it's a Karmann Vortex MAF sensor.
The way Karmann Vortex works is by counting the frequency generated by passing air. The more air passes through, the higher is the frequency. This frequency is caused by disturbance in the air flow. You should see something protruding into the air flow path. Moving on, this set up needs a "straight" (laminar) air flow. This is where the straightener comes in. Take this out and the frequency won't be generated in a correct manner and thus the check engine light. The straightener might pose some restriction, but the MAF won't work properly without it.
BTW, I think this is a great thread. I'm looking forward to squeezing "hidden" horsepower in this engine. I already have a plan to contruct my CAI setup (just need to find MAF adapter and properly-sized K&N open element) and you guys' ideas about the enclosure will most likely be used.
Another BTW. I'm planning to replace the hose/pipe between the MAF and throttle body (TB). I saw something about PVC pipe, but I think I will use either straight piping and rubber elbows or straight radiator hose and pipe elbows. Any ideas/insights ? Thanks.
TFW
Hi,
I'm new to Lexus world and just got my '95 LS400 (2G then I take it ?) on 12/31/02, but I might be able to shed some light on this thread since I come from Diamond Star Motor cars scenery (still have two of them).
Anyway, that grid little thing is commonly called "air flow straightener". I have not checked out the filter/MAF sensor on my LS, but if you said it's a "grid thing", then it's a Karmann Vortex MAF sensor.
The way Karmann Vortex works is by counting the frequency generated by passing air. The more air passes through, the higher is the frequency. This frequency is caused by disturbance in the air flow. You should see something protruding into the air flow path. Moving on, this set up needs a "straight" (laminar) air flow. This is where the straightener comes in. Take this out and the frequency won't be generated in a correct manner and thus the check engine light. The straightener might pose some restriction, but the MAF won't work properly without it.
BTW, I think this is a great thread. I'm looking forward to squeezing "hidden" horsepower in this engine. I already have a plan to contruct my CAI setup (just need to find MAF adapter and properly-sized K&N open element) and you guys' ideas about the enclosure will most likely be used.
Another BTW. I'm planning to replace the hose/pipe between the MAF and throttle body (TB). I saw something about PVC pipe, but I think I will use either straight piping and rubber elbows or straight radiator hose and pipe elbows. Any ideas/insights ? Thanks.
TFW
Just as I figured. It was the metal grid screen causing the rough idle.
Please keep us updated on the progress Tom.
01-03-03, 02:08 PM
#39
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Eric,
Thank you
All,
Do you guys know that Jim Wolf Technology make Pop Charger for LS400 for only about $110 ? This includes the air horn/adapter and an open element K&N filter (HUGE, with 6" base diameter). You will still have to make your own enclosure but this makes the whole thing easier.
The air horn is also far superior than half of the airbox, it also function as an airflow straightener, so, Eric, if you want to try to remove "the beehive" after installing this. Just bear in mind that an airhorn doesn't function as well as the beehive in terms of straightening airflow, but it helps.
If you guys want the phone number to the shop that sells the JWT pop charger for the above price, email me privately at twahjudi@insight.rr.com. I don't want to make a second mistake by advertising some shop that doesn't belong to the official vendor association
TFW
Thank you
All,
Do you guys know that Jim Wolf Technology make Pop Charger for LS400 for only about $110 ? This includes the air horn/adapter and an open element K&N filter (HUGE, with 6" base diameter). You will still have to make your own enclosure but this makes the whole thing easier.
The air horn is also far superior than half of the airbox, it also function as an airflow straightener, so, Eric, if you want to try to remove "the beehive" after installing this. Just bear in mind that an airhorn doesn't function as well as the beehive in terms of straightening airflow, but it helps.
If you guys want the phone number to the shop that sells the JWT pop charger for the above price, email me privately at twahjudi@insight.rr.com. I don't want to make a second mistake by advertising some shop that doesn't belong to the official vendor association
TFW
Last edited by TomWahjudi; 01-03-03 at 02:08 PM.
01-03-03, 03:40 PM
#40
Originally posted by TomWahjudi
Eric,
Thank you
All,
Do you guys know that Jim Wolf Technology make Pop Charger for LS400 for only about $110 ? This includes the air horn/adapter and an open element K&N filter (HUGE, with 6" base diameter). You will still have to make your own enclosure but this makes the whole thing easier.
The air horn is also far superior than half of the airbox, it also function as an airflow straightener, so, Eric, if you want to try to remove "the beehive" after installing this. Just bear in mind that an airhorn doesn't function as well as the beehive in terms of straightening airflow, but it helps.
If you guys want the phone number to the shop that sells the JWT pop charger for the above price, email me privately at twahjudi@insight.rr.com. I don't want to make a second mistake by advertising some shop that doesn't belong to the official vendor association
TFW
Eric,
Thank you
All,
Do you guys know that Jim Wolf Technology make Pop Charger for LS400 for only about $110 ? This includes the air horn/adapter and an open element K&N filter (HUGE, with 6" base diameter). You will still have to make your own enclosure but this makes the whole thing easier.
The air horn is also far superior than half of the airbox, it also function as an airflow straightener, so, Eric, if you want to try to remove "the beehive" after installing this. Just bear in mind that an airhorn doesn't function as well as the beehive in terms of straightening airflow, but it helps.
If you guys want the phone number to the shop that sells the JWT pop charger for the above price, email me privately at twahjudi@insight.rr.com. I don't want to make a second mistake by advertising some shop that doesn't belong to the official vendor association
TFW
thanks
01-03-03, 07:32 PM
#42
Lexus Champion
You guys can certainly do whatever you wish but it is my opinion that the stock filter housing, a modified lid to my specification and a high flow filter element will give as much or MORE flow than an aftermartet arangement. lvangundy tried the K&N pod and it LOST power on the dyno and had some driveability issues.
As I have said before, the key issues are to eliminate the pressure drop through the stock intake peices and provide cold air to the intake. Modifying the lid and building a air box fed by outside air will accomplish this an do so at a very low cost. Even if you do run the Jim Wolfe part you still must build a cold air box to obtain the full effect.
As I have said before, the key issues are to eliminate the pressure drop through the stock intake peices and provide cold air to the intake. Modifying the lid and building a air box fed by outside air will accomplish this an do so at a very low cost. Even if you do run the Jim Wolfe part you still must build a cold air box to obtain the full effect.
01-05-03, 08:21 AM
#44
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UCF10/11: JWT has a website, but they don't list the pop charger for LS400 on there. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/
Lvangundy: Which one is "K&N pod" ? Was this just one of K&N universal cone-shaped air filters or the replacement element ? If it was the universal one, what's the dimensions on it ? Or at least if you know the part number ? Just an inkling, it is possible that the "K&N pod" filter actually provides so much air that it leans out the air/fuel ratio and then the knock sensor saw it as knock and retarded the timing. Bad.
I went to a local vendor and I was shown a pop charger for Maxima and the airhorn has a bolt pattern behind it to fit onto a MAF. I know that my UCF20 has a rather different setup. Instead of a flange, the MAF sensor just sits on basically a plastic pipe with no flanges. The airbox has a round outlet where it's simply clamped to the MAF. Is this the same case on UCF10 and/or UCF30 ?
Due to the shape of the MAS, the vendor told me that JWT pop-charger will not fit my UCF20 (judging from the one for Maxima). I do have a feeling that he just assumed that all pop-chargers have to have bolt pattern. So, until someone can actually confirm it. Still waiting for reply from JWT.
Plan B. If JWT pop charger for LS400 doesn't fit my UCF20, I have located AEM TurboFlo universal air filters. It's available with 2.5", 2.75" and 3" outlets and they have built-in airhorn. I just need a 45 degree rubber elbow and a short section about 4-5" of steel/aluminum pipe.
There is always jbrady's plan even if plan B failed jbrady, I'm not trying to say your method sucks or anything. I'll have to take a look (yet) at the downstream half of the airbox. And, you are right, I will still have to build the enclosure. The reason why I'm trying to fit more expensive filter is the airhorn. I would really like to see if there is any improvement by replacing the paper filter you are using with K&N E-2606 (replacement).
TFW
Lvangundy: Which one is "K&N pod" ? Was this just one of K&N universal cone-shaped air filters or the replacement element ? If it was the universal one, what's the dimensions on it ? Or at least if you know the part number ? Just an inkling, it is possible that the "K&N pod" filter actually provides so much air that it leans out the air/fuel ratio and then the knock sensor saw it as knock and retarded the timing. Bad.
I went to a local vendor and I was shown a pop charger for Maxima and the airhorn has a bolt pattern behind it to fit onto a MAF. I know that my UCF20 has a rather different setup. Instead of a flange, the MAF sensor just sits on basically a plastic pipe with no flanges. The airbox has a round outlet where it's simply clamped to the MAF. Is this the same case on UCF10 and/or UCF30 ?
Due to the shape of the MAS, the vendor told me that JWT pop-charger will not fit my UCF20 (judging from the one for Maxima). I do have a feeling that he just assumed that all pop-chargers have to have bolt pattern. So, until someone can actually confirm it. Still waiting for reply from JWT.
Plan B. If JWT pop charger for LS400 doesn't fit my UCF20, I have located AEM TurboFlo universal air filters. It's available with 2.5", 2.75" and 3" outlets and they have built-in airhorn. I just need a 45 degree rubber elbow and a short section about 4-5" of steel/aluminum pipe.
There is always jbrady's plan even if plan B failed
jbrady, I'm not trying to say your method sucks or anything. I'll have to take a look (yet) at the downstream half of the airbox. And, you are right, I will still have to build the enclosure. The reason why I'm trying to fit more expensive filter is the airhorn. I would really like to see if there is any improvement by replacing the paper filter you are using with K&N E-2606 (replacement).TFW
Last edited by TomWahjudi; 01-05-03 at 08:29 AM.