Airbox mod (new thread)
#46
Lvangundy,
Thank you for the picture. I guess it's combination of the lack of the venturi and hotter air from radiator killed the output. The hotter air MIGHT also contribute to more knock and then timing retard, but until the timing can be confirmed with a datalogger, it's just a rough guess.
The picture also shows that the MAF sensor has a flange with bolt pattern and it looks a lot different than the one on my UCF22 which is all plastic. Well, I guess you guys with UCF11s can get JWT Pop-charger and build the enclosure. No idea about UCF30s.
For all,
My 1995 LS400 has MAF sensor with inlet/outlet OD of 3.5" (this fact killed the option of using AEM TurboFlo universal filter since the largest has only 3" outlet). The accordion hose is 4" long (I'm going to replace this with smooth-bore rubber hose, every little thing helps ). I'm going to see if I could pick up some cheap rubber hose from Home Depot/Lowe's or the likes.
Yesterday I tinkered with it and remove the upstream half of the airbox, clamped the air filter in place using pieces of small clear hose (to keep the seal on the filter) and kept the ram/cold air feed (for the lack of better term, it's the 2.5' long plastic thingie with channel in it that sits on top of the radiator). I didn't notice any increase, instead I might have noticed the loss in pick-up, so I put things back together and VOILA ! I got the pick-up back. I guess I will need to build the cold-air enclosure if I want to use open-element filter. So, for now, I think I will just order K&N replacement element (E-2606) from JEG'S (unless Summit Racing has one in stock, which I doubt) and see if my butt can tell if there is any increase in peppyness. I just don't have the energy to fabricate anything when temperature outside is in the 30s and I have no access to a climate-controlled garage
TFW
Thank you for the picture. I guess it's combination of the lack of the venturi and hotter air from radiator killed the output. The hotter air MIGHT also contribute to more knock and then timing retard, but until the timing can be confirmed with a datalogger, it's just a rough guess.
The picture also shows that the MAF sensor has a flange with bolt pattern and it looks a lot different than the one on my UCF22 which is all plastic. Well, I guess you guys with UCF11s can get JWT Pop-charger and build the enclosure. No idea about UCF30s.
For all,
My 1995 LS400 has MAF sensor with inlet/outlet OD of 3.5" (this fact killed the option of using AEM TurboFlo universal filter since the largest has only 3" outlet). The accordion hose is 4" long (I'm going to replace this with smooth-bore rubber hose, every little thing helps ). I'm going to see if I could pick up some cheap rubber hose from Home Depot/Lowe's or the likes.
Yesterday I tinkered with it and remove the upstream half of the airbox, clamped the air filter in place using pieces of small clear hose (to keep the seal on the filter) and kept the ram/cold air feed (for the lack of better term, it's the 2.5' long plastic thingie with channel in it that sits on top of the radiator). I didn't notice any increase, instead I might have noticed the loss in pick-up, so I put things back together and VOILA ! I got the pick-up back. I guess I will need to build the cold-air enclosure if I want to use open-element filter. So, for now, I think I will just order K&N replacement element (E-2606) from JEG'S (unless Summit Racing has one in stock, which I doubt) and see if my butt can tell if there is any increase in peppyness. I just don't have the energy to fabricate anything when temperature outside is in the 30s and I have no access to a climate-controlled garage
TFW
#47
Tom keep us updated on how it goes. Thats what this airbox thread is for. I know that Weapon-r has a intake made for your LS model along with a piggy back ecu. I believe Hermosa has it in his SC400.
Last edited by LOTC; 01-07-03 at 12:48 AM.
#53
Eric,
Did you notice any increase with that kind of intake piping ? I'm just a little skeptical/afraid that changing it to just pipe w/o resonators will reduce hp/torque.
One good thing I found out today (after calling JWT direct) was that there is JWT Pop Charger that will fit my UCF22. It's the one for Mustang Cobra or basically just an airhorn with 3.5" barbed fitting to the back of it. The kit also includes a short section of rubber/silicone connector to fit onto MAF sensor. So, now at least UCF11 and UCF22 have Pop-charger filters (and the damn things are only $100-$110 from Avalon Racing, http://www.avalonracing.net). UCF22 still needs a 45 degree rubber elbow (or a 45 degree aluminum/steel elbow and a short straight rubber/silicone connector) to clear the fender, but that's the least of the problem. And again, cold air enclosure is still needed.
I ordered the K&N replacement filter from Summit Racing, I couldn't believe my ear when the salesman told me that they had one in stock. JEG'S has none, it's going to take them 2-3 weeks to get it and since I want to put that filter in for the trip to Detroit (Detroit Auto Show), I went with Summit. I'll post my "butt-o-meter" result after I got back, granted that this filter is the correct one.
I called a local auto parts store last night for their straight radiator hose in 3.5" ID and the guy said they had one in stock. I'm picking it up right after work. This will replace the accordion hose between MAF and intake pipe. I have to buy 3' of this thing and I need only a 4" section, so if any of you want some, I can cut to length whatever you want and send it out for a minimum fee which I don't think is going to exceed $10 (if you need just a 4-6" section) shipped. For set-up like Eric's, I don't think there is any need for this thing.
In any rate, I'm going to see what works and what doesn't. I'll keep you guys posted.
TFW
Did you notice any increase with that kind of intake piping ? I'm just a little skeptical/afraid that changing it to just pipe w/o resonators will reduce hp/torque.
One good thing I found out today (after calling JWT direct) was that there is JWT Pop Charger that will fit my UCF22. It's the one for Mustang Cobra or basically just an airhorn with 3.5" barbed fitting to the back of it. The kit also includes a short section of rubber/silicone connector to fit onto MAF sensor. So, now at least UCF11 and UCF22 have Pop-charger filters (and the damn things are only $100-$110 from Avalon Racing, http://www.avalonracing.net). UCF22 still needs a 45 degree rubber elbow (or a 45 degree aluminum/steel elbow and a short straight rubber/silicone connector) to clear the fender, but that's the least of the problem. And again, cold air enclosure is still needed.
I ordered the K&N replacement filter from Summit Racing, I couldn't believe my ear when the salesman told me that they had one in stock. JEG'S has none, it's going to take them 2-3 weeks to get it and since I want to put that filter in for the trip to Detroit (Detroit Auto Show), I went with Summit. I'll post my "butt-o-meter" result after I got back, granted that this filter is the correct one.
I called a local auto parts store last night for their straight radiator hose in 3.5" ID and the guy said they had one in stock. I'm picking it up right after work. This will replace the accordion hose between MAF and intake pipe. I have to buy 3' of this thing and I need only a 4" section, so if any of you want some, I can cut to length whatever you want and send it out for a minimum fee which I don't think is going to exceed $10 (if you need just a 4-6" section) shipped. For set-up like Eric's, I don't think there is any need for this thing.
In any rate, I'm going to see what works and what doesn't. I'll keep you guys posted.
TFW
#54
Originally posted by TomWahjudi
Eric,
Did you notice any increase with that kind of intake piping ? I'm just a little skeptical/afraid that changing it to just pipe w/o resonators will reduce hp/torque.
One good thing I found out today (after calling JWT direct) was that there is JWT Pop Charger that will fit my UCF22. It's the one for Mustang Cobra or basically just an airhorn with 3.5" barbed fitting to the back of it. The kit also includes a short section of rubber/silicone connector to fit onto MAF sensor. So, now at least UCF11 and UCF22 have Pop-charger filters (and the damn things are only $100-$110 from Avalon Racing, http://www.avalonracing.net). UCF22 still needs a 45 degree rubber elbow (or a 45 degree aluminum/steel elbow and a short straight rubber/silicone connector) to clear the fender, but that's the least of the problem. And again, cold air enclosure is still needed.
I ordered the K&N replacement filter from Summit Racing, I couldn't believe my ear when the salesman told me that they had one in stock. JEG'S has none, it's going to take them 2-3 weeks to get it and since I want to put that filter in for the trip to Detroit (Detroit Auto Show), I went with Summit. I'll post my "butt-o-meter" result after I got back, granted that this filter is the correct one.
I called a local auto parts store last night for their straight radiator hose in 3.5" ID and the guy said they had one in stock. I'm picking it up right after work. This will replace the accordion hose between MAF and intake pipe. I have to buy 3' of this thing and I need only a 4" section, so if any of you want some, I can cut to length whatever you want and send it out for a minimum fee which I don't think is going to exceed $10 (if you need just a 4-6" section) shipped. For set-up like Eric's, I don't think there is any need for this thing.
In any rate, I'm going to see what works and what doesn't. I'll keep you guys posted.
TFW
Eric,
Did you notice any increase with that kind of intake piping ? I'm just a little skeptical/afraid that changing it to just pipe w/o resonators will reduce hp/torque.
One good thing I found out today (after calling JWT direct) was that there is JWT Pop Charger that will fit my UCF22. It's the one for Mustang Cobra or basically just an airhorn with 3.5" barbed fitting to the back of it. The kit also includes a short section of rubber/silicone connector to fit onto MAF sensor. So, now at least UCF11 and UCF22 have Pop-charger filters (and the damn things are only $100-$110 from Avalon Racing, http://www.avalonracing.net). UCF22 still needs a 45 degree rubber elbow (or a 45 degree aluminum/steel elbow and a short straight rubber/silicone connector) to clear the fender, but that's the least of the problem. And again, cold air enclosure is still needed.
I ordered the K&N replacement filter from Summit Racing, I couldn't believe my ear when the salesman told me that they had one in stock. JEG'S has none, it's going to take them 2-3 weeks to get it and since I want to put that filter in for the trip to Detroit (Detroit Auto Show), I went with Summit. I'll post my "butt-o-meter" result after I got back, granted that this filter is the correct one.
I called a local auto parts store last night for their straight radiator hose in 3.5" ID and the guy said they had one in stock. I'm picking it up right after work. This will replace the accordion hose between MAF and intake pipe. I have to buy 3' of this thing and I need only a 4" section, so if any of you want some, I can cut to length whatever you want and send it out for a minimum fee which I don't think is going to exceed $10 (if you need just a 4-6" section) shipped. For set-up like Eric's, I don't think there is any need for this thing.
In any rate, I'm going to see what works and what doesn't. I'll keep you guys posted.
TFW
10-20hp increase with the Weapon-r Intake and piggyback ECU.
#56
K&N Report & Findings
All,
So I put in the K&N replacement element (E-2606) and smooth-bore hose in before the trip to Detroit Auto Show on Saturday. Detroit is about 4 hours from where I live. It seems there are improvements from just changing those two things, definitely no loss. No dyno numbers, but this will satisfy me for now.
I was quite impressed with the 80-110mph sprints. Smooth and powerful even with 4 guys in it. Right now I'm looking at the pipe between TB and MAF and I can probably create something for minimum budget. I'm going to see if I could land some aluminum piping. BTW, I replaced the accordion hose with one from Home Depot intended for some plumbing purposes, maybe for sewer line or some sort. I think it's used to connect PVC pipes. The size is 3" but the ID turned out to be 3.5" (PVC pipe wall thickness is about 0.25"). A little too big by about 1/8" or so, but it can still clamp down tight to both the pipe and MAF.
So, if anyone is wondering if K&N E-2606 is worth it, well, yes. For $60 shipped and taxed from Summit Racing. The hose is only $5-6, so I came out pretty cheap.
TFW
So I put in the K&N replacement element (E-2606) and smooth-bore hose in before the trip to Detroit Auto Show on Saturday. Detroit is about 4 hours from where I live. It seems there are improvements from just changing those two things, definitely no loss. No dyno numbers, but this will satisfy me for now.
I was quite impressed with the 80-110mph sprints. Smooth and powerful even with 4 guys in it. Right now I'm looking at the pipe between TB and MAF and I can probably create something for minimum budget. I'm going to see if I could land some aluminum piping. BTW, I replaced the accordion hose with one from Home Depot intended for some plumbing purposes, maybe for sewer line or some sort. I think it's used to connect PVC pipes. The size is 3" but the ID turned out to be 3.5" (PVC pipe wall thickness is about 0.25"). A little too big by about 1/8" or so, but it can still clamp down tight to both the pipe and MAF.
So, if anyone is wondering if K&N E-2606 is worth it, well, yes. For $60 shipped and taxed from Summit Racing. The hose is only $5-6, so I came out pretty cheap.
TFW
#58
Lvangundy,
I will take some pictures this weekend. Nothing special about it though. The only thing visible is the smooth-bore hose, even that, it's also black, so everything just looks stock.
FWIW, I found that my '95 LS400 has a hot wire MAS instead of the Karmann Vortex found on UCF10. I don't know if they are interchangable, unlikely that they are but, by all means, prove me wrong.
What I'm thinking is keeping the air duct and upstream half of the airbox (if there is enough room) to get cold air set up, coupled with home-made enclosure and JWT intake. This should provide enough flow of cool air especially when the car is in motion. Oh well, this will stay as a brainstorm idea until summer has come
Any idea on locating a piece of 3.5" pipe other than Burns Stainless ? Thanks guys.
TFW
I will take some pictures this weekend. Nothing special about it though. The only thing visible is the smooth-bore hose, even that, it's also black, so everything just looks stock.
FWIW, I found that my '95 LS400 has a hot wire MAS instead of the Karmann Vortex found on UCF10. I don't know if they are interchangable, unlikely that they are but, by all means, prove me wrong.
What I'm thinking is keeping the air duct and upstream half of the airbox (if there is enough room) to get cold air set up, coupled with home-made enclosure and JWT intake. This should provide enough flow of cool air especially when the car is in motion. Oh well, this will stay as a brainstorm idea until summer has come
Any idea on locating a piece of 3.5" pipe other than Burns Stainless ? Thanks guys.
TFW
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