daveskates

iTrader: (1)

A few weeks back the connector to my crank angle sensor got caught in the timing belt and snapped off. Had to take a few things apart to get to the CAS itself, pulled it out just yesturday, re soldiered new wire on it with a connector from the junkyard, ziptied it away from the timing belt, connected it and tried to start the car up BUT no dice. It would crank and crank but wouldn't turn over. Is it possible for the CAS to have been on it's way out anyway ? is there anyway to test it ? I'm not really sure how often they go out or when they do, i have 220k miles on the car now

any help would be appreciated

johnnyg66

Is it giving you any codes now? Could be the sensor when mine was dying I got a cl. I replaced both crank and cam sensors and have 232k on my 92.

daveskates

iTrader: (1)

i see, well it isn't throwing a code yet but when it was running it would have a check engine light and it would go away, but when the timing belt ate the wire to the CAS then after I fixed it and it didn't run that's the only thing I can think it would be

LScowboyLS

are you sure you matched up the wires correctly?

how do you know?

crank angle sensors can go out, but it is rare

daveskates

iTrader: (1)

well when i pulled the connector the wires were red/white so i just matched them up, is it possible that the color of the wires switch between the years? i pulled the connectors off of an early model LS but at the junkyard they didn't have the year so that is a possibility i wouldn't assume it to be but correct me if so, it wouldn't hurt to re-cut the wires and try them again to see if anything is different. Also i had a feeling the CAS wouldn't just go bad all of a sudden i was hoping that wasn't the case but it does have miles on it so i wasn't really too sure

LScowboyLS

No.

the wire colors haven't changed if the connector from the junkyard was also hooked up to the CAS

are you confident about the connections? - did you solder them? and heat shrink them for insulation?

it is possible that you blew a fuse or a circuit breaker or clipped another wire when all of this happened

daveskates

iTrader: (1)

ok just making sure well it definitely was from the CAS so that rules that out, i didn't check fuses though i'll do that now i didn't think about that

and yes they were soldiered and heat shrinked

daveskates

iTrader: (1)

checked fuses and they all seem to be good, i wasn't sure if there was a fuse specifically for the CAS but i checked all of them anyway, any other ideas?

LScowboyLS

did you check for codes?

disconnect negative battery cable for an hour and check again for codes!

daveskates

iTrader: (1)

Will do, and after it's disconnected for an hour, do i reconnect the terminal for the codes to show IF there are any?

deanshark

Yes. Disconnecting the battery will remove the codes from the ECU.
Reconnect battery and try to start the car. Then check for codes again, same way you did the first time.

steve2006

If you have a digital multimeter check the resistance across the 2 terminals on the CPS.
From cold the reading should be between 835 and 1400 Ohms.
Also do you mean the wires were chewed by coming into contact with the serpentine belt instead of the cam belt?
If you want a copy of the factory manual section relating to these checks and tests send me a PM with your email address.

daveskates

iTrader: (1)

ok gotcha thanks for the help

daveskates

iTrader: (1)

I had one but it was a bit old i'll go pick up a new one

is it possible the CAS could've shorted out when the connector was chewed up by the timing belt? someone told me that is a possibility as well, maybe not likely but a possibility none the less

Gene01

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, you can pick up a DMM for under $5 ($2.99 on sale).