Shmee

iTrader: (3)

You could try a image dynamic sub. I think their cheap subs work in IB and don't need a lot of power, iirc 150W rms. But I'm not sure you are going to get better sound or even if it is a smart idea to do that.

I'm using a LOC to hook the speaker signal to my new amp. Aside from getting a new deck and amp and sub and all that jazz, that's the cheapest option for good sound.

Dubbayoo

I'm not looking for 'better' sound. My sub is torn badly so it rattles whenever there's bass. I like my old school hip-hop on SiriusXM. If I could find a new OEM I'd take that in a heart beat.

LEXUSA400

I got mine today. Gonna start working more on the install, it is a little bit larger diameter than the 15" that's in there at the moment.

As far as what materials you can use without having issues, you would probably need to check over at diymobileaudio.com. Large sub-woofers move lots of air so anything in their stroke path either needs to present no resistance to lots of air flow or be rigid enough to redirect it. But then again, the trunk acts like a very large semi-sealed enclosure so IDK.

I asked a few questions about how to go about mounting using a manifold and/or if it mattered which way the cone faced. John said below 500Hz it didn't matter so panels in any position around the woofer shouldn't really have any ill effects. Something like this gets done quite often it would seem.




Finding an aftermarket 2ohm 8" high efficiency woofer might prove to be very difficult. To be 2ohm it would likely be DVC but also power hungry.
Your best bet is to probably look for a nice used OE one on eBay.

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

So I have pretty much finished up my rear deck sub install. Just a few minor touches and sourcing some nice speaker fabric and hopefully I can make it an almost OEM looking install...

The pics:


image by ZX3Tuning, on Flickr


Stock deck => positioning new sub frame==> cutting ==> fitting new sub frame ===> the aftermath! IB sub! #****yeah by ZX3Tuning, on Flickr


Sub is basically all done, need to grab the right length machine screws from HD. by ZX3Tuning, on Flickr

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

Details on the build are thus:

HD 1" angle iron( which is over priced crap, FYI) frame made to a 14.5x14.5. Left me with a perfect 12.5 ID FOR the 12.5 OD of the sub.
Used <½ a sheet of ¾" MDF for the baffle and surround.
Surround is 2 sheets of ¾" MDF glued and brad-nailed together.
Frame has 16 holes to distribute the load and forces evenly through the baffle and into deck.
Welded in, my 250+lbs buddy was able to pull him self up on the frame with no deflection in the deck of the frame so it's super solid. I used counter sunk t-nut inserts for wood rather than wood screws, so everything is bolted together.
Circles were cut with a circle jig on my router, highly recommend this method!
Surround was routered-round to reduce any noise from sharp edges... Don't think it would matter but just in case.
I will be covering the surround in speaker fabric, prefer something close to the stock blue-grey if possible but otherwise black or white depending on how I finish the rest of the interior.
Surround has a couple of countersunk t-nuts on the top side so it can be bolted/unbolted from below. This was done for when it gets covered so it can be easily removed from inside the trunk.

I designed it all so it could be removed without having to pull the seats and deck cover.

I can go into more details if anyone needs them.

ocr

iTrader: (2)

curious if a JL 10W1-4 would require a box or if I could just drop it in the stock hole of a UCF10 with minor modifying as a 8" is what the rear deck is designed for.

rick1987

iTrader: (1)

man that looks sweet. It looks like you had plenty of clearence with the gas tank.

Im curious on how it sounds. Did you wire it up yet?

sleepywgn

AMAZING! I love your work man. LMK If you want that in and out burger for a trade! ; )

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

I haven't had a chance to wire it up yet. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get that far, still have to finish the tidying up of the air install.

Sleepy,
Thanks bro!
it's atleast a dozen in&outs just in materials!
But I'll settle for your wheels!

ocr

iTrader: (2)

will the 95+ 3rd brake light fit the 90-94

LEXUSA400

Looks great man! I got my SBP15 installed on a temporary baffle but have removed it for now, need to get the amp board figured out and installed. Been lazy lately.

Any woofer can be used IB, what is the xmax on the JL 10W1-4?

ocr

iTrader: (2)

well I just bought a KICKER CX300.1 amp. It's a class D Mono block amp, 600W max @ 15.6v, continuous RMS @ 14.4V is 300W at 2 Ohm and 150W at 4 Ohm.

the Kicker amp will be running a JL audio 10W1-4 sub in the rear dash. I might build a box for the sub in the future but for starters I'll run it as a free air sub. I'm not looking to rattle the car at all, I just want a little bass in the car as the stock sub has been blown since I bought the car back in 2011. I'll be installing an aftermarket radio also as I have no volume **** on mine, luckly its set at a decent volume, I just cant shut it off.

LEXUSA400

You won't need any more than 150watts running IB. It will get just as loud as a sealed enclosure and should play to lower frequencies. You will have to control the power and it would be good if your amp had a subsonic filter to cut lower frequencies. A sealed box acts like an air spring and protects the woofer from over extension but also has down sides with SQ.

ocr

iTrader: (2)

I plan on running my sub at 150W @ 4 Ohms as that's what it is designed for. Now I just need to know if I can put a 95+ 3rd brake light in place of my current 90 3rd brake light or if boring out the underside of the 90 speaker cover will be enough.

ocr

iTrader: (2)

ok, I have a bit of a delima.

I have a 10" JL sub rated Rms 150w @ 4 Ohms and a 300W class D Mono Block Kicker amp rated 150w Rms @ 4 Ohms or 300W @ 2 Ohms.

My problem is I don't really want to have to cut away at the back dash. Will a 10" sub fit by just stacking a 10" MDF ring on the rear dash? If not, what other options do I have?

My only other idea to solve my problem is by just getting a 8" sub. If I do that, I'm looking at getting the Kicker CompS 8" Single-Voice-Coil Subwoofer rated 200w Rms @ 4 ohms or Kicker CompR 8" Dual-Voice-Coil Subwoofer rated 400w @ 2 ohms.

What would be my best option for dropping a new sub into the rear dash using the Kicker 300.1 Class D Mono Block amp?