LScowboyLS

here are the main points to remember:

● the 50 degree thing is just a safe place to "park" the system temporarily while you are removing the belt so the cams don't move from the correct place, due to valve spring pressure - this is less of an issue if the plugs are out of the car

● the marks on the belt are just to help you, they are not critical

● all that really has to be true when you are done is two things:

1. the crank marks at 0 (TDC) and on the cam pulleys and cam backing plate marks have to all 3 line up on every 2nd revolution of the crank when you are done

2. this simultaneous line-up of all of these marks has to be happening on the compression stroke, so when every thing is lined up at top dead center (TDC - cylinder #1 at top of compression stroke) then cylinder #1 should hold pressure (because the valves would all be closed if you are on compression stroke)

PS - cylinder #1 is on driver's side, closest to front of car


I like to do timing belts with plugs out, so there is little resistance when turning the crank, so that if things run afoul, I can feel resistance from a valve touching a piston before any damage is done

once you think you have it, keep rotating the crank and double checking that the marks continue to line up and you will be fine!

SynicalVip

iTrader: (2)

So was about to get this finish and over with but was mot able to. I was told that the crankshaft pulley timing should be snug/tight fit but when I was touching it, it wobble/move around. So my question is, does it suppose to move around/have play in it? It is the gear pulley that the belt is on and then there a little key for it as well

LScowboyLS

there should be no play - you need to investigate what is going on there

SynicalVip

iTrader: (2)

Okay took the gear pulley out and it seem like it's worn/shave a bit. So I went ahead and order both the pulley and key new from the dealer, did get the price match Sewell selling for

SynicalVip

iTrader: (2)

So the parts finally arrived today and I compared it from the old with the new. I'm not sure how the grove on the inner side of the crankshaft pulley timing suppose to be like. On the new one the grove is just one straight way but on the old it have a little slant to the side the straight, same with the key. Below are pics I'm talking about, above is of the old pulley/key and below it is new. My question is, is it suppose to be just straight grove across like the new one or it suppose to be like the old one?

SynicalVip

iTrader: (2)

Anyone know?

LScowboyLS

the second set of pics looks correct

the first set of pics looks like someone modified the original in their workshop, looks home-made or else extremely worn-out

SynicalVip

iTrader: (2)

This is my first time seeing this so I don't know myself either so just want to confirm

LScowboyLS

yeah, we just found the major issue with your car! - no way a crank sensor or a timing belt is gonna work right with that slop

good job

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

just looks very worn.

SynicalVip

iTrader: (2)

Okay so now I'm confident that the new one is the correct one and how it suppose to be. It is one problem after another that been putting this whole project on hold. But I'm no rush rather get it all taken care of than deal with it later that which can be much worst! This is probably why I'm having so much issue with timing and the check code etc

LScowboyLS

Yes! - this is exactly why you are having so many issues with timing and codes!

SynicalVip

iTrader: (2)

So I spent my Sunday working on the car, put the new gear pulley in and it was tight and snug! so I proceed and install the all the other stuff, got timing belt install and align dead on! As I start to put everything else back on, I found that the power steering pump, where the nut thread on for the pulley is stripped! Yup one thing after another, most like have cross threaded which sucks! So I went ahead and took off the power steering pump which was not hard at all. Got a new pump and install the pump, hook up all the lines again and now will have to fill and bleed the system. Is it recommend to just use regular Toyota ATF or what other best fluid I can use for it? After that is all done I can finally put coolant and everything on and then moment of truth!

LScowboyLS

Use the Dexron III that is called for on the cap or in the manual and make sure to replace that $3 o-ring that likes to leak between the reservoir and pump - and make sure it's the real Toyota o-ring!

SynicalVip

iTrader: (2)

The ring that goes into the bigger hose correct? And so any dexron III will do the job then? Hmm time to pick up a few quarts now :P