LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

Check engine light on cause vsc on?

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Old 01-19-14, 10:55 PM
  #151  
SynicalVip
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Also another thing one of the lines I think it might be the oil cooling line. It connect to the bottom of radiator that have red color fluid. Well that line have spilled quite some fluid now, while was working on the car the hose actually fell over from where I place it lol. So, my question is what fluid is it and where do I refill that? Just want to make sure all fluids are good before the actual turn over
Old 01-19-14, 11:08 PM
  #152  
Yamae
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The fluid is the ATF. The lower part of the radiator is the ATF cooler. Remove the ATF dip stick and fill in the Type IV ATF from the hole.
Old 01-19-14, 11:36 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by Yamae
The fluid is the ATF. The lower part of the radiator is the ATF cooler. Remove the ATF dip stick and fill in the Type IV ATF from the hole.
Okay thanks for clarifying, good thing I got a few quarts of those left over from previous drain and fill transmission
Old 01-20-14, 12:19 AM
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LScowboyLS
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you had better make sure those transmission fluid lines to the cooler section below the radiator are in good shape and attached very securely, take your time and do it right, because if one of those hoses comes off while you are driving, you will likely burn up a $5000 transmission before discovering the problem!
Old 01-20-14, 07:49 AM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
you had better make sure those transmission fluid lines to the cooler section below the radiator are in good shape and attached very securely, take your time and do it right, because if one of those hoses comes off while you are driving, you will likely burn up a $5000 transmission before discovering the problem!
will do, I taking lots of time doing all this as it is my first time doing something this major . Just to organize and help me remember where each bolts/nuts goes once I taken it out and pulled out the parts I out the nuts/screws back where it go just so I know I won't lose any of them. This is taking quite longer than I thought but then it will pay off in the end. Been driving the back up 96 LS while this one getting fix :P
Old 01-20-14, 08:20 AM
  #156  
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When putting those 4 nuts that hold the clutch fan to the bracket, any of you have a trick to tighten it? Or what tools do you guys use? I just don't want to stripped these nuts again lol
Old 01-20-14, 09:09 AM
  #157  
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I would get brand new nuts and use the correct tool, which is any quality box-end wrench (i.e. Snap-On, Matco, Mac, Cornwell, Craftsman, Kobalt, Husky, Pittsburgh Pro) of the correct size (10mm and 12mm and 14 mm will do most fasteners on the car)

I have a fancy set of Gear Wrenches - which really make it easy to complete this assembly quickly
Old 01-20-14, 09:34 AM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
I would get brand new nuts and use the correct tool, which is any quality box-end wrench (i.e. Snap-On, Matco, Mac, Cornwell, Craftsman, Kobalt, Husky, Pittsburgh Pro) of the correct size (10mm and 12mm and 14 mm will do most fasteners on the car)

I have a fancy set of Gear Wrenches - which really make it easy to complete this assembly quickly
I did order all new nuts already, and I'm using craftsman tools since it is all I got and been working well for me and can't beat the lifetime warranty :P. I wish I could afford snap on etc right now but I don't work on car enough to make me want to get some. As for the nuts I am able to tighten it a bit but when I put one open end/box end wrench on one but and the another on the other. One will start to tight but once it tighten, I was not able to tighten it a bit more cause the other one loosen. I was going to see if there a rental tool where it will hold it from moving while I tighten it down
Old 01-20-14, 09:38 AM
  #159  
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I am not certain of the problem you are describing, but you need to retrace your steps, there is no rental tool needed, just a box end wrench

I get them all snug first and do the final tighten in a criss-cross pattern

you can hold the fan blade for leverage and/or turn the blade for better access

and be careful not to overtighten!

Last edited by LScowboyLS; 01-20-14 at 09:44 AM.
Old 01-20-14, 10:13 AM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
I am not certain of the problem you are describing, but you need to retrace your steps, there is no rental tool needed, just a box end wrench

I get them all snug first and do the final tighten in a criss-cross pattern

you can hold the fan blade for leverage and/or turn the blade for better access

and be careful not to overtighten!
Sorry for the confusion. But the 4 nuts that I need to tighten is the one that connect to the fan clutch to the bracket assembly not the plastic fins to the clutch fan. I am able to tighten til it is snug but I just need enough leverage to tighten it just a bit more. I'm using two 12mm wrench and one to tight whole the other hold it from spinning when I tight but that one I use to hold from spinning it get lose because the assembly will spin clock wise and the wrench holding the nut will be spinning counterclockwise. What I'm going to try is to grip the pulley as much as I can and then tighten it, so the pulley won't be spinning as I tighten it
Old 01-20-14, 01:06 PM
  #161  
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What I'm going to try is to grip the pulley as much as I can and then tighten it, so the pulley won't be spinning as I tighten it
yes, if you cannot hold the pulley with your hand, you are probably over tightening it!


make sure you are using the box end of each wrench, even if it means you have to buy another wrench

open end wrenches get you in trouble and are for very rare cases, and even in those rare cases a flare-nut wrench should be used rather than an open end

what an open end is actually for is convenience during all that turning prior to the nut becoming "snug" - never for final tightening!

and anyone reading this thread who owns the following, I would strongly advise putting them in the trash:

● adjustable "crescent" wrenches
● 12 point sockets
● Phillips screwdrivers whose ends are not in "new" condition

this kind of crap will only cause you heartache!

Last edited by LScowboyLS; 01-20-14 at 01:12 PM.
Old 01-20-14, 01:15 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
yes, if you cannot hold the pulley with your hand, you are probably over tightening it!


make sure you are using the box end of each wrench, even if it means you have to buy another wrench

open end wrenches get you in trouble and are for very rare cases, and even in those rare cases a flare-nut wrench should be used rather than an open end

what an open end is actually for is convenience during all that turning prior to the nut becoming "snug" - never for final tightening!

and anyone reading this thread who owns the following, I would strongly advise putting them in the trash:

● adjustable "crescent" wrenches
● 12 point sockets
● Phillips screwdrivers whose ends are not in "new" condition

this kind of crap will only cause you heartache!

Thanks for all the info as always cowboy! Learn a lot from this forum as I know nothing about Lexus before I joined this when I got my first Lexus! I will do one last check on the nuts and leave it, I think it should be good enough but just want to have that peace of mind that it's nice and tight
Old 01-20-14, 01:42 PM
  #163  
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most backyard mechanics tend to have a problem getting small fasteners too tight and snapping them off, rather than not tight enough! - always use a torque wrench whenever possible, and it is almost always possible!
Old 01-20-14, 02:22 PM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
most backyard mechanics tend to have a problem getting small fasteners too tight and snapping them off, rather than not tight enough! - always use a torque wrench whenever possible, and it is almost always possible!
Only thing is sometime certain area you can't fit the damn torque wrench lol but I tried to use it on every area I'm able to
Old 01-24-14, 09:54 PM
  #165  
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So tomorrow will be the moment of truth to see if I have succeeded on doing all this myself! Double/trple check everything and all looks good! Have manually turn the crank serval times and all times turn nicely, no sign of anything hitting and it turns around every revolution I spin it. Everything have been out back together and will put in all fluids tomorrow then turn over time! Hopefully it will clear up all my issues as stated before and all my codes etc. now to fill in coolant, I will be using only Toyota red coolant but just about how many gallons does it need? I have a full and a half gallon left, I'm sure it is more than enough since I will be mixing water in myself. I fill from top radiator hose or how would I go upon filling it up?


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