Check engine light on cause vsc on?
12-08-13, 05:54 PM
#92
So as I said in previous post this is the bare wire that the serpentine belt cut through etc, i think it is for grounding purpose? Correct me if in wrong. Now I just bought this sensor and yes it is oem! My question is can I twist that bare wire and solder it to the best I can and then wrap it around the red/white wire? Luckily it only cut through to the bare wire not the other two.
12-08-13, 06:33 PM
#93
Moderator
So as I said in previous post this is the bare wire that the serpentine belt cut through etc, i think it is for grounding purpose? Correct me if in wrong. Now I just bought this sensor and yes it is oem! My question is can I twist that bare wire and solder it to the best I can and then wrap it around the red/white wire? Luckily it only cut through to the bare wire not the other two.
12-08-13, 06:38 PM
#94
The bare wire is to shield the red and white insulated wires electrically to avoid the noise. The engine compartment has different noises such as ignition noise, injectors switching noise and etc. To eliminate those, a shield wire is used. As long as those insulated wires are not damaged, all you need is to wrap them using a similar bare wire and solder ends to the original remaining bare wire.
12-08-13, 07:10 PM
#96
Moderator
Your engine problem is mostly caused by the tensioner not functioning well and the shielding bare wire is only a part of the problem,I think. Hope you find someone who can do the job well. I am also not good at mechanical issues but I now have many mechanics who help me. I help their electrical issues free and in return they help me a lot.
Incidentally my posts reached 500 answering your question. I still have difficulties writing English, but I will be posting time to time when someone needs an aid of the electrical issue.
Incidentally my posts reached 500 answering your question. I still have difficulties writing English, but I will be posting time to time when someone needs an aid of the electrical issue.
12-08-13, 07:35 PM
#97
Your engine problem is mostly caused by the tensioner not functioning well and the shielding bare wire is only a part of the problem,I think. Hope you find someone who can do the job well. I am also not good at mechanical issues but I now have many mechanics who help me. I help their electrical issues free and in return they help me a lot.
Incidentally my posts reached 500 answering your question. I still have difficulties writing English, but I will be posting time to time when someone needs an aid of the electrical issue.
Incidentally my posts reached 500 answering your question. I still have difficulties writing English, but I will be posting time to time when someone needs an aid of the electrical issue.
12-08-13, 07:45 PM
#98
I sure hope I get this resolve too been having problems for quite some time now and yet still have not fix! Keep putting more and more money into it but still not fix. I wish in can find someone locally who I can trust 100% and honest with everything. I mean I'm more of a DIY person but when come to something critical with engine wise etc I won't touch it I just don't trust myself enough. As for the clips yes mine broken now so that why it rub against the serpentine belt. I will have to cover it up as much I can and zip tie to something so it won't get run again. I think I will be ordering new hydraulic tensioner and timing belt just to be safe. Or do you guys suggest I just reload the tensioner and get new belt instead? I have spent a lot of money trying to figure this out but yet nothing have resolve it so am kind of on a budget now
12-08-13, 08:00 PM
#99
I would leave the tensioner alone because they can be expensive and usually don't wear out. I didn't worry about the insulating metal on mine and I can't notice any noise. You could put it together as good as you possible can and see how that works out and if you get any extra noise. I used the bracket for the coil packs to zip tie my wires out of the way and it has been fine for over a year now.
I would be willing to bet this solves your problem. I went through like 100 things like you to find that issue as well.
I would be willing to bet this solves your problem. I went through like 100 things like you to find that issue as well.
12-08-13, 08:24 PM
#100
I would leave the tensioner alone because they can be expensive and usually don't wear out. I didn't worry about the insulating metal on mine and I can't notice any noise. You could put it together as good as you possible can and see how that works out and if you get any extra noise. I used the bracket for the coil packs to zip tie my wires out of the way and it has been fine for over a year now.
I would be willing to bet this solves your problem. I went through like 100 things like you to find that issue as well.
I would be willing to bet this solves your problem. I went through like 100 things like you to find that issue as well.
12-08-13, 08:37 PM
#101
Thought you were referring to the serpentine tensioner for some reason, if you are gonna do the t-belt might as well do the tensioner as well since you will have it all taken apart anyway. I certainly hope no other damage was done if that belt jumped since that is an interference engine.
That broken wire made my car go all crazy and it was completely undrivable. Car would buck and the RPMS were all over the place.
That broken wire made my car go all crazy and it was completely undrivable. Car would buck and the RPMS were all over the place.
12-08-13, 08:43 PM
#102
Thought you were referring to the serpentine tensioner for some reason, if you are gonna do the t-belt might as well do the tensioner as well since you will have it all taken apart anyway. I certainly hope no other damage was done if that belt jumped since that is an interference engine.
That broken wire made my car go all crazy and it was completely undrivable. Car would buck and the RPMS were all over the place.
That broken wire made my car go all crazy and it was completely undrivable. Car would buck and the RPMS were all over the place.
12-08-13, 08:55 PM
#103
Yeah, sorry about that, LOL. I don't know too much about changing the t-belt, but I would definetly change everything I could while it was apart. Might wait till some experts to chime in tomorrow before ordering the kit. I certainly hope you get this resolved.
12-24-13, 05:41 PM
#104
Okay so I finally got some time to work on the car today since been doing overtime lots lately. Well I taken everything off to where it expose both cams etc and finally got those two stripped nuts off the clutch fan bracket. Anyway well I rotated the crank clockwise few times and then line up at tdc (0) and look like the line up on the cams is off just a bit. Now being just off a bit can that cause all this issue I'm having? All this misfire in cylinder 1,3,5,7 and code p1346 and p1349? At first I thought it was a loose timing belt but after rotating a few revolution it tighten up. Below are some pics I took of the mark line up etc, to me it is off by a tooth at least. From the look of it, the driver side look line up but the passenger is off by a tooth.
I also took a look at all my spark plugs as well, taken them out and about all of them have that rust kind of look on it. However on one of them the first one on passenger side closest to front of car. That one had oil in it, both the spark plug itself and the coil pack. Is it bad when it have oil in it? Could that also cause misfire? I think i need to do valve cover gasket change including all the tube seals and grommets. Have anyone used felpro valve cover gasket kit and do anyone recommend that?
I also took a look at all my spark plugs as well, taken them out and about all of them have that rust kind of look on it. However on one of them the first one on passenger side closest to front of car. That one had oil in it, both the spark plug itself and the coil pack. Is it bad when it have oil in it? Could that also cause misfire? I think i need to do valve cover gasket change including all the tube seals and grommets. Have anyone used felpro valve cover gasket kit and do anyone recommend that?
12-25-13, 04:21 PM
#105
Any inputs guys? I'm in the process of removing the timing belt and waterpump. The question is should I just go ahead and order a new kit or what should I just replace? Again the kit I got is a little over a year old and if anything probably a little over 5k miles on it since don't travel much