The Master UPPER control arm thread
#31
Thanks for the gesture, mate. If it's not too much trouble mine is a 1991 with standard suspension.
#32
On my 95's drivers side I have a "ultra-8" upper control arm from napa auto parts. Been on there about a year and was a last minute decision. It was the only localy stocked one, i was taking the car out of town a few days later and needed to swap it out before i left. The original had ALOT of play in it and was clunking all over when i tugged on It.
So far no problems, and it was a bit heavier gauge steel than the stock ones were. Only fitment problem was the little clip that holds the abs wire was a TIGHT fit, but it still bolted right up.
So far no problems, and it was a bit heavier gauge steel than the stock ones were. Only fitment problem was the little clip that holds the abs wire was a TIGHT fit, but it still bolted right up.
#33
Finn - from the 1990 LS factory service manual, for cars without air suspension:
Front
Camber 0 degrees 05' (+ or - 30')
Caster 9 degrees 15' (+ or - 30')
Wheel angle (inside wheel) 39 degrees 20' (+1 or -2 degrees)
Toe-in 2mm (+ or - 1mm)
Rear
Camber 0 degrees (+ or - 30')
Toe-in 2mm (+ or - 1mm)
Wheel runout, vertical and horizontal 0.3mm or less
Rire runout (vertical) 1.4mm or less
Hope that helps!
Front
Camber 0 degrees 05' (+ or - 30')
Caster 9 degrees 15' (+ or - 30')
Wheel angle (inside wheel) 39 degrees 20' (+1 or -2 degrees)
Toe-in 2mm (+ or - 1mm)
Rear
Camber 0 degrees (+ or - 30')
Toe-in 2mm (+ or - 1mm)
Wheel runout, vertical and horizontal 0.3mm or less
Rire runout (vertical) 1.4mm or less
Hope that helps!
Last edited by JM51526; 12-07-13 at 03:04 PM.
#34
I have one Doorman and one Beck/Arnley both for almost 2years and 30k miles. The doorman was very nice looking and was an exact replica of the OEM arm I removed and the ball joint was identical. It didnt come with a flared castle nut like the stock arm so I had to use a washer to engage the castle nut with the cotter pin. The beck looked less desireable from the start with small rust spots and was similar looking to the moog that has been pictured but the ball joint is incorrect because it has not stop on the taper. The taper enlarges untill it meets the main shaft. The beck was slightly more difficult to install and I would not recomend it. My OEM ball joints were beyond shot at 120k, I could move the top of the wheel almost 1/4" in and out with the wheels on the ground. With the price of OEM I could buy the doorman every 50k and still be ahead of the game over the OEM.
(My car is lowered on Megan's and I work the cars suspension hard regularly)
(My car is lowered on Megan's and I work the cars suspension hard regularly)
#35
Finn - from the 1990 LS factory service manual, for cars without air suspension:
Front
Camber 0 degrees 05' (+ or - 30')
Caster 9 degrees 15' (+ or - 30')
Wheel angle (inside wheel) 39 degrees 20' (+1 or -2 degrees)
Toe-in 2mm (+ or - 1mm)
Rear
Camber 0 degrees (+ or - 30')
Toe-in 2mm (+ or - 1mm)
Wheel runout, vertical and horizontal 0.3mm or less
Rire runout (vertical) 1.4mm or less
Hope that helps!
Front
Camber 0 degrees 05' (+ or - 30')
Caster 9 degrees 15' (+ or - 30')
Wheel angle (inside wheel) 39 degrees 20' (+1 or -2 degrees)
Toe-in 2mm (+ or - 1mm)
Rear
Camber 0 degrees (+ or - 30')
Toe-in 2mm (+ or - 1mm)
Wheel runout, vertical and horizontal 0.3mm or less
Rire runout (vertical) 1.4mm or less
Hope that helps!
#38
#42
Pole Position