Recently acquired LS400 ~ some questions
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
Recently acquired LS400 ~ some questions
Hello everyone,
I've recently acquired an Australian complianced 6/99 vehicle and there are some things which I haven't been able to find out. Hoping to gets some answers here.
I don't have a master key with the 3 buttons though one is on the way. Is it at all possible once this key is cut to get its electronics to work with my vehicle? The glove box manual states, if I understand it correctly, that all keys will need to be changed without an existing master so I'm thinking that means locks too, and maybe some immobilizer components. Have I got that right or can I take the new key and the car to a Lexus workshop and get them to enable the key's electronics?
The glove box manual also states that the transmission oil capacity is 1.9 litres (a quart) which doesn't seem like very much at all. As the oil is a bit smelly I'd like to know whether or not the torque converter has an oil drain plug on it so that the oil within it can be replaced as well. I'd rather not contaminate new oil with the existing old oil if possible.
Once or twice, the transmission has flared up just a little on light throttle upshifts upshifts. Does anyone know whether that might be a big concern or is it something that a service and adjustment could take care of? I don't know when the box was last serviced but I'd say it's been a while. The odometer reads 300,000 Km. (approx. 186,400 miles)
Is it critical to use T-IV trans oil?
... I'll be getting a specialist to do this work.
I have found 3 different A650E repair manuals on eBay. One dated August '97, another is July 2000 and the last one is dated May 2000, which the seller has specified as being for an IS300. Were there running changes to the A650E from its introduction in the 400 until the 400 stopped production?
Does the IS300 have different line pressures etc? I'm thinking of going for the July 2000 manual but not absolutely sure whether it's the right book for 6/99.
I've also seen 2x general workshop manuals, an electric circuit diagram / repair manual and a diff repair manual. Are there any other manuals?
The brake pedal goes down about an inch or two and I wonder about that. I merely touch the brake pedal on my 4x disc Ford and the brakes start to work. Once the 400's brakes apply though, they are progressive and pull the car up very well. Can that brake pedal travel be considered excessive?
Every light on the dashboard comes on when I turn the key to ON and they all go off after a few seconds. None come on when the car is being driven.
In checking the cam belt: is it possible to remove and refit the right hand side cam cover to inspect the belt without removing the coolant outlet and the radiator hose?
Also, with the car raised a little and safely supported, is there access to the crankshaft's front bolt with a socket and bar or a ring spanner with the radiator, fan and shroud in place? I'm thinking of marking a line in the belt with chalk then rotating the engine 720° so that the belt can be fully inspected.
Supposedly, the belt is very new but I want to be absolutely sure about that.
Lastly, is the red coolant pH neutral?
This car is quite a learning curve so maybe there'll be following questions.
If anyone thinks I'd be going the wrong way about anything related to the above, please tell me.
Thanks in advance for any replies.
I've recently acquired an Australian complianced 6/99 vehicle and there are some things which I haven't been able to find out. Hoping to gets some answers here.
I don't have a master key with the 3 buttons though one is on the way. Is it at all possible once this key is cut to get its electronics to work with my vehicle? The glove box manual states, if I understand it correctly, that all keys will need to be changed without an existing master so I'm thinking that means locks too, and maybe some immobilizer components. Have I got that right or can I take the new key and the car to a Lexus workshop and get them to enable the key's electronics?
The glove box manual also states that the transmission oil capacity is 1.9 litres (a quart) which doesn't seem like very much at all. As the oil is a bit smelly I'd like to know whether or not the torque converter has an oil drain plug on it so that the oil within it can be replaced as well. I'd rather not contaminate new oil with the existing old oil if possible.
Once or twice, the transmission has flared up just a little on light throttle upshifts upshifts. Does anyone know whether that might be a big concern or is it something that a service and adjustment could take care of? I don't know when the box was last serviced but I'd say it's been a while. The odometer reads 300,000 Km. (approx. 186,400 miles)
Is it critical to use T-IV trans oil?
... I'll be getting a specialist to do this work.
I have found 3 different A650E repair manuals on eBay. One dated August '97, another is July 2000 and the last one is dated May 2000, which the seller has specified as being for an IS300. Were there running changes to the A650E from its introduction in the 400 until the 400 stopped production?
Does the IS300 have different line pressures etc? I'm thinking of going for the July 2000 manual but not absolutely sure whether it's the right book for 6/99.
I've also seen 2x general workshop manuals, an electric circuit diagram / repair manual and a diff repair manual. Are there any other manuals?
The brake pedal goes down about an inch or two and I wonder about that. I merely touch the brake pedal on my 4x disc Ford and the brakes start to work. Once the 400's brakes apply though, they are progressive and pull the car up very well. Can that brake pedal travel be considered excessive?
Every light on the dashboard comes on when I turn the key to ON and they all go off after a few seconds. None come on when the car is being driven.
In checking the cam belt: is it possible to remove and refit the right hand side cam cover to inspect the belt without removing the coolant outlet and the radiator hose?
Also, with the car raised a little and safely supported, is there access to the crankshaft's front bolt with a socket and bar or a ring spanner with the radiator, fan and shroud in place? I'm thinking of marking a line in the belt with chalk then rotating the engine 720° so that the belt can be fully inspected.
Supposedly, the belt is very new but I want to be absolutely sure about that.
Lastly, is the red coolant pH neutral?
This car is quite a learning curve so maybe there'll be following questions.
If anyone thinks I'd be going the wrong way about anything related to the above, please tell me.
Thanks in advance for any replies.
#2
Lexus Champion
As the oil is a bit smelly I'd like to know whether or not the torque converter has an oil drain plug on it so that the oil within it can be replaced as well. I'd rather not contaminate new oil with the existing old oil if possible.
Once or twice, the transmission has flared up just a little on light throttle upshifts upshifts. Does anyone know whether that might be a big concern or is it something that a service and adjustment could take care of? I don't know when the box was last serviced but I'd say it's been a while. The odometer reads 300,000 Km. (approx. 186,400 miles)
Is it critical to use T-IV trans oil?
I have found 3 different A650E repair manuals on eBay. One dated August '97, another is July 2000 and the last one is dated May 2000, which the seller has specified as being for an IS300. Were there running changes to the A650E from its introduction in the 400 until the 400 stopped production?
Does the IS300 have different line pressures etc? I'm thinking of going for the July 2000 manual but not absolutely sure whether it's the right book for 6/99.
I've also seen 2x general workshop manuals, an electric circuit diagram / repair manual and a diff repair manual. Are there any other manuals?
Does the IS300 have different line pressures etc? I'm thinking of going for the July 2000 manual but not absolutely sure whether it's the right book for 6/99.
I've also seen 2x general workshop manuals, an electric circuit diagram / repair manual and a diff repair manual. Are there any other manuals?
The main manuals to buy are the main 2 volume genuine LS400 manual which looks like the photo below, plus the wiring diagrams, perhaps
The brake pedal goes down about an inch or two and I wonder about that. I merely touch the brake pedal on my 4x disc Ford and the brakes start to work. Once the 400's brakes apply though, they are progressive and pull the car up very well. Can that brake pedal travel be considered excessive?
Every light on the dashboard comes on when I turn the key to ON and they all go off after a few seconds. None come on when the car is being driven.
Every light on the dashboard comes on when I turn the key to ON and they all go off after a few seconds. None come on when the car is being driven.
In checking the cam belt: is it possible to remove and refit the right hand side cam cover to inspect the belt without removing the coolant outlet and the radiator hose?
Also, with the car raised a little and safely supported, is there access to the crankshaft's front bolt with a socket and bar or a ring spanner with the radiator, fan and shroud in place? I'm thinking of marking a line in the belt with chalk then rotating the engine 720° so that the belt can be fully inspected.
Supposedly, the belt is very new but I want to be absolutely sure about that.
Supposedly, the belt is very new but I want to be absolutely sure about that.
Lastly, is the red coolant pH neutral?
Last edited by LScowboyLS; 12-28-13 at 03:34 PM.
#3
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
do what he says!!!!!!!!!! now about your key... you do have one to run the car RIGHT? the one you have on the way (3 button) does it have the guts in it or just hollow... if hollow ask the dealer if they can and will activate it (and how much$$$) if it has guts but not for your car, ask the same question. then ask how much THEY would charge for a working 3 button.
you will not need to change any locks.
you can get a duplicate key to run the LS for around 35$ (no buttons)
you will not need to change any locks.
you can get a duplicate key to run the LS for around 35$ (no buttons)
#4
Lead Lap
lovin the pics LS haha aweosme.
The flaring upshift, i had that on my tranny as well. the fluid was oldddd, pretty brown. changed the fluid twice and seems good now. holds onto the gear too, doenst downshift at the slightest throttle tip in. I kind of got used to it downshifting very easy, so i didnt know if it was right. But i got back and drove my moms toyota matrix and infact an auto tranny should hold a gear untill you really start giving it throttle.
The LS is my first auto tranny vehicle so I didnt know what to expect.
With all the torque the 4.0 has it should take advantage of the high gear.
The flaring upshift, i had that on my tranny as well. the fluid was oldddd, pretty brown. changed the fluid twice and seems good now. holds onto the gear too, doenst downshift at the slightest throttle tip in. I kind of got used to it downshifting very easy, so i didnt know if it was right. But i got back and drove my moms toyota matrix and infact an auto tranny should hold a gear untill you really start giving it throttle.
The LS is my first auto tranny vehicle so I didnt know what to expect.
With all the torque the 4.0 has it should take advantage of the high gear.
#5
Rookie
Thread Starter
Hello again,
Thanks for such comprehensive information. Really very handy.
A few more questions:
How is oil added to the transmission? The dipstick tube has a small diameter, far too small to put a funnel in.
Please pardon my ignorance but what problems can replacing all of the ATF at once in an old transmission cause?
(I had a quick read of the 'failing ECU caps' thread'. Fingers crossed that that doesn't happen too soon!)
I've ordered the vol. 1 and vol. 2 repair manuals so far. I just like to have the manuals as I like to know what makes the car 'tick' as it were. And maybe there are things I can fix myself with those books.
Is the rear axle limited slip in the 400?
I'll talk to my mechanic about the timing belt. As mentioned earlier I was told that it was new, there's a sticker on the engine cover stating that the job was done less than 3,000 Km ago. I was hoping it could be checked as my understanding is that there's 10 hour's labour involved to replace it with the cost of the belt, water pump and bearings on top of that.
Re: the pH of the coolant, not suggesting that I mistrust certain unknown people but it's not unknown for some to put coloured water in the cooling system, that's why that question.
The 2 keys I have are without buttons. Confused about a 3 button key being 'hollow'.
The transmission upshift flared up occasionally under light load when going uphill from moving off. When on level ground, I haven't noticed any flare up when moving off. I would just get across an intersection and the transmission would already have upshifted to 4th. And bags of torque... that's for sure.
=====
The old Ford has half the power, if that. It's so olde that it doesn't even have an ECU. Going up a hill in the Ford at 60 Km/h it runs out of steam and I have to really tickle the throttle to keep it moving and it will often kick down from 3 to 2. In the 400 I barely lean on the throttle at all in that situation and when I do it's very responsive.
=====
Thanks again everyone
Thanks for such comprehensive information. Really very handy.
A few more questions:
How is oil added to the transmission? The dipstick tube has a small diameter, far too small to put a funnel in.
Please pardon my ignorance but what problems can replacing all of the ATF at once in an old transmission cause?
(I had a quick read of the 'failing ECU caps' thread'. Fingers crossed that that doesn't happen too soon!)
I've ordered the vol. 1 and vol. 2 repair manuals so far. I just like to have the manuals as I like to know what makes the car 'tick' as it were. And maybe there are things I can fix myself with those books.
Is the rear axle limited slip in the 400?
I'll talk to my mechanic about the timing belt. As mentioned earlier I was told that it was new, there's a sticker on the engine cover stating that the job was done less than 3,000 Km ago. I was hoping it could be checked as my understanding is that there's 10 hour's labour involved to replace it with the cost of the belt, water pump and bearings on top of that.
Re: the pH of the coolant, not suggesting that I mistrust certain unknown people but it's not unknown for some to put coloured water in the cooling system, that's why that question.
The 2 keys I have are without buttons. Confused about a 3 button key being 'hollow'.
The transmission upshift flared up occasionally under light load when going uphill from moving off. When on level ground, I haven't noticed any flare up when moving off. I would just get across an intersection and the transmission would already have upshifted to 4th. And bags of torque... that's for sure.
=====
The old Ford has half the power, if that. It's so olde that it doesn't even have an ECU. Going up a hill in the Ford at 60 Km/h it runs out of steam and I have to really tickle the throttle to keep it moving and it will often kick down from 3 to 2. In the 400 I barely lean on the throttle at all in that situation and when I do it's very responsive.
=====
Thanks again everyone
#7
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
check: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1998-2005-Lexus-ES-GS-IS-LS-3-Button-Remote-Key-/190851279641?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1999%7CMake%3ALexus%7CModel%3ALS400&hash=item2c6f9f6b19&vxp=mtr
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#8
Lexus Champion
Please pardon my ignorance but what problems can replacing all of the ATF at once in an old transmission cause?
(I had a quick read of the 'failing ECU caps' thread'. Fingers crossed that that doesn't happen too soon!)
Is the rear axle limited slip in the 400?
I'll talk to my mechanic about the timing belt. As mentioned earlier I was told that it was new, there's a sticker on the engine cover stating that the job was done less than 3,000 Km ago. I was hoping it could be checked as my understanding is that there's 10 hour's labour involved to replace it with the cost of the belt, water pump and bearings on top of that.
Re: the pH of the coolant, not suggesting that I mistrust certain unknown people but it's not unknown for some to put coloured water in the cooling system, that's why that question.
#9
Rookie
Thread Starter
Hello again. Happy New Year, everyone.
I'll just have to wait and see which type of key the non-Lexus dealer provides me with.
How do I correctly check the transmission oil level? i.e. in Park when hot and idling?
What pressure do people run their tyres at? Yesterday I found 40 psi in the new tyres fitted by the dealer, checking them because they were a 'thumpy' to drive on. The glove box manual states that for what I do, 30 psi all around is recommended. I've gone with that, for now.
~ Checked the psi in the spare too and found the original polishing kit along with leather and rubber conditioner, as well as the valet kit, all unused, Bonus!
I'll get the pH checked with a hydrometer. Didn't think of that, was going to splurge $19 on a litmus testing kit.
Thanks again
I'll just have to wait and see which type of key the non-Lexus dealer provides me with.
How do I correctly check the transmission oil level? i.e. in Park when hot and idling?
What pressure do people run their tyres at? Yesterday I found 40 psi in the new tyres fitted by the dealer, checking them because they were a 'thumpy' to drive on. The glove box manual states that for what I do, 30 psi all around is recommended. I've gone with that, for now.
~ Checked the psi in the spare too and found the original polishing kit along with leather and rubber conditioner, as well as the valet kit, all unused, Bonus!
I'll get the pH checked with a hydrometer. Didn't think of that, was going to splurge $19 on a litmus testing kit.
Thanks again
#10
Lexus Champion
What pressure do people run their tyres at? Yesterday I found 40 psi in the new tyres fitted by the dealer, checking them because they were a 'thumpy' to drive on. The glove box manual states that for what I do, 30 psi all around is recommended. I've gone with that, for now.
I'll get the pH checked with a hydrometer. Didn't think of that, was going to splurge $19 on a litmus testing kit.
Last edited by LScowboyLS; 01-01-14 at 12:23 AM.
#11
Lead Lap
I'll talk to my mechanic about the timing belt. As mentioned earlier I was told that it was new, there's a sticker on the engine cover stating that the job was done less than 3,000 Km ago. I was hoping it could be checked as my understanding is that there's 10 hour's labour involved to replace it with the cost of the belt, water pump and bearings on top of that.
The 3-button master key part number for the Australian market 98-00 LS400 is different than the one for the U.S. I cannot tell you if the programming procedure is the same. You may have features we don't have in the U.S. such as the capability of closing the windows using the 3-button master key.
#12
Rookie
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info.
I've just emailed the dealer because he's previously stated that he knows the previous owner. I've asked for information of the service history and for any receipts if possible.
Also, there's some non Lexus service stamps in the book with phone numbers and addresses from 2 service centres...
I've got to take the car back to the dealer as he's promised to get a minor power steering fluid leak fixed for me, have to wait a week or so as the mechanic closed for a while over the Christmas break. I'll get the key then.
....I've just had a read of this and saved the pdf:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...y-dilemma.html
I've just emailed the dealer because he's previously stated that he knows the previous owner. I've asked for information of the service history and for any receipts if possible.
Also, there's some non Lexus service stamps in the book with phone numbers and addresses from 2 service centres...
I've got to take the car back to the dealer as he's promised to get a minor power steering fluid leak fixed for me, have to wait a week or so as the mechanic closed for a while over the Christmas break. I'll get the key then.
....I've just had a read of this and saved the pdf:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...y-dilemma.html
#13
Lexus Champion
not sure about dealerships in Australia, but in USA, any Lexus dealership can take the VIN number and print out the entire service history of the car (dealership service history) regardless of which dealership did the procedure, they also have a record of any recalls or TSB campaigns performed
this info is also available at Toyota website online
this info is also available at Toyota website online
#14
Rookie
Thread Starter
I went here: https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lex...us/add-vehicle
Unfortunately after entering my VIN the message "Please correct the follow error(s): The VIN you have entered is invalid. Please check your VIN and try again" comes up. The VIN in the glove box manual, the registration label on the windscreen and the VIN on the firewall all match. Re-entered the VIN to make sure but still the same error. Maybe that site only recognizes American vehicles afterall. Bummer. In the right hand drop down menu on that page, the LS400 is not listed.
Started the car so I could reverse it away from the wall to open the bonnet to read the VIN, noticed an oil leak on the concrete about 16 square inches in size. Car's been sitting for 6 days. Looks fresh-ish but could be from the old Ford so I'm going to put newspaper down next time I've taken the car out for a run to find out for sure. If it's the 400, it's right at the front of the engine so I can only suspect the harmonic balancer at this stage, with my limited knowledge. I'll see...
There was no oil whatsoever under the car when I inspected it at the dealership and the car was boxed in so I presume that it had been there for a little while at least.
Pleasantly surprised to notice for the first time that the security light comes on, even when only using a buttonless key, when the key is withdrawn from the column.
Unfortunately after entering my VIN the message "Please correct the follow error(s): The VIN you have entered is invalid. Please check your VIN and try again" comes up. The VIN in the glove box manual, the registration label on the windscreen and the VIN on the firewall all match. Re-entered the VIN to make sure but still the same error. Maybe that site only recognizes American vehicles afterall. Bummer. In the right hand drop down menu on that page, the LS400 is not listed.
Started the car so I could reverse it away from the wall to open the bonnet to read the VIN, noticed an oil leak on the concrete about 16 square inches in size. Car's been sitting for 6 days. Looks fresh-ish but could be from the old Ford so I'm going to put newspaper down next time I've taken the car out for a run to find out for sure. If it's the 400, it's right at the front of the engine so I can only suspect the harmonic balancer at this stage, with my limited knowledge. I'll see...
There was no oil whatsoever under the car when I inspected it at the dealership and the car was boxed in so I presume that it had been there for a little while at least.
Pleasantly surprised to notice for the first time that the security light comes on, even when only using a buttonless key, when the key is withdrawn from the column.
#15
Rookie
Thread Starter
How is the power steering fluid level checked, with the engine running or switched off? I've noted the hot and cold marks on the reservoir dipstick.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.