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I just purchased a 1996 LS400 with 218XXX Miles. Maintenance Advice? I have a list!

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Old 01-28-14, 01:26 PM
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BeLSNow111
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Thumbs up New Proud Owner of a 1996 LS400 with 218XXX Miles. Maintenance Advice?

I am new here. Like the many others I have recently become the proud owner of an used LS400. This baby was in the best condition of the 7 LS's I test drove within my price range. I figured I had better do some routine maintenance. I found a post LScowboyLS made in a similar thread and was hoping you all might be able to help me with some clarification. Thank you in advance! For anyone interested in the Part#'s I have been adding them as I find them. I am both a full-time college student and full-time worker. It might take me a couple weeks to finally get this all repaired as I work M-F 7-5pm, so most mechanics are closed when I have time off (the weekends) but I shall figure out a way to make it work


This is my model based on my VIN#
1996 LEXUS LS400 (UCF20L-AEPGKA)
USA 1UZFE 4FC

Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
I would do the following:

● go to local Lexus dealership and give them your VIN and they will give you a record of all maintenance that has been done (timing belt, etc.) - if the timing belt was over 90K or more than 10 years ago, I would have it done now.
I am not sure my vehicle was maintained thru a Lexus Dealership by the previous owner. Is there an option to look this up via registering on the website?

Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
● read the LS400 FAQ here on Club Lexus
● replace caps, rotors, plug wires and plugs (genuine Toyota on caps & rotors, OEM Denso or NGK is fine on plugs & wires)
19101 1910150020 DISTRIBUTOR CAP SUB-ASSEMBLY 2

19102 1910250020 DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR SUB-ASSEMBLY 2

DENSO Part # 6718143 Spark Plug Wires

90919-01178-83 PLUG, SPARK

Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
● replace Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECTS) with genuine Toyota part (big difference in mileage and power)
8942220010 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
● fix your power steering leak (you very likely have one and it will kill your alternator!)
90301-11016 RING, O


Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
● clean throttle body, especially butterfly area
● replace air filter and PCV valve
12204-50011 VALVE SUB-ASSY, VENT

90480-18001 GROMMET

90467-15021 CLIP

17801-50010 ELEMENT SUB-ASSY, AI Air Filter

DENSO Part # 4531008 **#8713950010, 87139YZZ02} Carbon Filter

23300-50060 FILTER ASSY, FUEL Filter

Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
● replace strut bar bushings if this has not yet been done
48674-40051 CUSHION, STRUT BAR

Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
ECU capacitors (future very likely problem area and you get free low end power now and even nicer shifting)
Ordered all the appropriate capacitors, will have a technician install them soon

Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
● change oil (use a name brand full synthetic 5W-30 such as Pennzoil Ultra or Platinum, Mobil 1, etc.)
Pennzoil Ultra

Motorcraft FL400S Silicone Valve Oil Filter

12101A 9034112023 PLUG (FOR OIL PAN DRAIN)

90430-12031 GASKET OIL PAN

Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
● change tranny fluid (do NOT have tranny flushed, just changed like the oil, use only genuine Toyota T-IV fluid and a new drain bolt and gasket)
As far as transmission oil I was reading that Toyota Type T-IV had a different viscosity rating than Mobil 3309. Does Toyota's fluid have some additional additives that would make it 'better' than Mobil 3309 or other manufacture approved JWS 3309?

08886-81015 ATF TYPE T-4 (4 LIT

9034110011 DRAIN (TAM) PLUG SUB-ASSEMBLY

3517830010 DRAIN PLUG (TAM) GASKET

35330-50010 STRAINER ASSY, OIL

1237150060 MOUNT, TRANSMISSION MOUNTING, REAR NO.1

Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
● change differential fluid
What grade/weight is recommended?

Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
● change coolant (be sure to use genuine Toyota long-life red)
● consider a new fuel cap, new coolant reservoir cap, and new positive battery terminal (use Toyota parts on all 3 of these)
77310-12140 CAP ASSY, FUEL TANK

16401-50071 CAP SUB-ASSY,RADIATO

90982-05037 TERMINAL ASSY, BATTE

Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
● four wheel alignment
● a set of one of the following three sets of tires: Michelin Primacy MXV4, Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season Plus, Bridgestone Turanza Serenity Plus
● inspect condition of main drive belt, all fluid levels and condition of all hoses
0916-02405 BELT, V-RIBBED

Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
● inspect brakes
04465-50070 PAD KIT, DISC BRAKE

Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
if you do these things, the power will be back, and you will have a reliable daily driver!

genuine Toyota parts are available online for ~25% discount from online dealerships such as Lexus of South Atlanta, Park Place Lexus, Lexus Parts Now, Sewell Lexus, etc.)

on outer tie rod ends, the Toyota ones are cheap enough at discount to go ahead and use those, on inner tie rods ends, I would probably save the money over the very pricey factory parts and use Raybestos Pro or possibly Beck-Arnley
Tie rod ends??

Last edited by BeLSNow111; 02-03-14 at 08:20 AM.
Old 01-28-14, 01:38 PM
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BeLSNow111
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One last thing. Is there a part # for the CD Magazine Changer for the in-dash CD Player?

EDIT: Found it! Thanks to some help from YoshiMan

86273-50050 MAGAZINE, DISC PLAYE

Last edited by BeLSNow111; 02-03-14 at 08:20 AM.
Old 01-28-14, 04:53 PM
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yup, the CD changer Magazine is 86273-50050
Old 01-29-14, 08:49 AM
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BeLSNow111
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In the picture attached, I am missing the **** to adjust the back lighting for the instrument cluster and cover for my truck switch, the actual trunk switch is still there and operational. Anyone have an idea where I may find these? I am going to make a trip to the junk yard this weekend if all else fails.
Attached Thumbnails I just purchased a 1996 LS400 with 218XXX Miles. Maintenance Advice? I have a list!-dash1.jpg  
Old 01-29-14, 10:00 AM
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LScowboyLS
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everyone's trunk switch lever pretty part breaks, you have a lot of company
Old 01-29-14, 10:38 AM
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MattLS400
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
everyone's trunk switch lever pretty part breaks, you have a lot of company
lol.....True !
Old 01-29-14, 10:38 AM
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junkyard will be your best bet to find them cheap. there are plenty of 1st gen LS400s in my local yards.
Old 01-29-14, 10:50 AM
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BeLSNow111
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There seem to be plenty 1 gens in my local junk yard too. Will the 1st gen pieces fit the 2nd gen? I was going to give it a shot this weekend.
Old 01-29-14, 11:06 AM
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the **** might, the latch won't.
Old 01-29-14, 11:53 AM
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LScowboyLS
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I have always avoided Pennzoil. I was informed that they used waxes in the oil to help "seal" the engine. I am assuming this must only be in their lower grade oils.
this is complete BS - these kinds of silliness are started by the other oil companies! - I used to hear the same crap about Quaker State, Valvoline, etc.

Neither Pennzoil, nor any other major oil company, has ever used wax in any of their oils - this is a hoax


In fact, by avoiding Pennzoil, you have been avoiding some of the best oils ever made - now that we have the modern benefit of UOA (used oil analysis) and NOA (new oil analysis) - we now find that good old Pennzoil "yellow bottle" was/is likely the best conventional oil ever made, and Pennzoil Ultra, a lot of oil gurus would argue, is the best synthetic made! - and in 5W-30 for oil cars, there is nothing that can touch it!

I would take Pennzoil Ultra over Royal Purple, even if the RP were cheaper than the Ultra!

here you can see new oil test results by the non-profit Petroleum Quality Institute.

Last edited by LScowboyLS; 01-29-14 at 03:20 PM.
Old 01-29-14, 03:09 PM
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BeLSNow111
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I am glad to have that cleared up. I understand what all of those elements are but I am not certain how that relates to an engine? Hwo do you interpret Oil Analysis Results?
Old 01-29-14, 03:20 PM
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LScowboyLS
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low NOACK is really good and high viscosity is also good, to name two
Old 01-30-14, 08:52 AM
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BeLSNow111
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Pennzoil Ultra it is. Ultra's NOACK is superior to RP. The viscosity is higher on RP but the cold start viscosity of Ultra and slower degradation (low NOACK) seems to outweigh the RP higher viscosity. Since my car is of the higher millage variety might it benefit if I went to a higher oil grade? I'm not sure jumping up to 5W-40 form 5W-30 is such a good idea? I know mixing 5W-30 & 5W-40 is a terrible idea so that is out of the question. My millage is nearing 219K.
Old 01-30-14, 10:41 AM
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BeLSNow111
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Is this the "main drive belt"

90916-02405 BELT, V-RIBBED
Replaced by: 90916-02404-83

Last edited by BeLSNow111; 02-03-14 at 08:22 AM.
Old 01-30-14, 10:50 AM
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LScowboyLS
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5W-30 or 0W-30 is best for your LS400 - avoid 10W-40, 5W-40, 10W-40, 20W-50 etc.

to understand why, please go to Motor Oil University and read Motor Oil 101


The greatest confusion is because of the way motor oils are labeled. It is an old system and is confusing to many people. I know the person is confused when they say that a 0W-30 oil is too thin for their engine because the old manual says to use 10W-30. This is wrong.

Last edited by LScowboyLS; 01-30-14 at 10:58 AM.


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