1990 Lexus LS 400 Rack and pinion replacement
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I am in the Process of replacing my rack an pinion I just need to knoe if i need to gett the rack with
electronic variable effort components or with out will be Posting a tutorial soon since i have not seen one and went trough hell doing the work
electronic variable effort components or with out will be Posting a tutorial soon since i have not seen one and went trough hell doing the work
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I would just pay the extra $$$ and get a rack that has it installed already. You are going to need it one way or the other, might as well not screw with trying to swap out the old one.
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Have you tried other adjustments before you came to the conclusion you needed to replace?
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I tried isolating the problem on its own and it s leaking from the rack boots are ripped beyond recognition and since i am there decides to do all the other steering work replacement like the pump and pressure hose it was just one big mess down there all of those parts were leaking so just decided to do all the car had the pump replaced once by previous owner but who ever did didn't do a proper job.
#7
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Yes - my power steering pump leaked on my alternator - and replaced both. That cleaned up the rack and pinion too. Hopefully I'll have some time before I replace. But a good idea to replace the hose's too. Thx.
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yea just be prepared Because It had banjo botlts so tight i had to strip them to get them out (i would suggest Ordering the bajo bolts before starting as this can delay the process alot
#9
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it is not necessary to strip the banjo bolts, or any bolt for that matter, to avoid stripping fasteners, heed the following:
● apply a penetrating oil such as Kroil 24 hours in advance if the fastener seems potentially frozen, rusted, corroded
● make sure you have good quality tools and the RIGHT tool - some tools cause so much trouble, they are banned from my tool collection - examples: adjustable (crescent) wrenches, 12-point sockets, etc.
● just because the 1/2" socket or wrench kind of fits on that 12mm bolt, doesn't mean you should use it
● apply a penetrating oil such as Kroil 24 hours in advance if the fastener seems potentially frozen, rusted, corroded
● make sure you have good quality tools and the RIGHT tool - some tools cause so much trouble, they are banned from my tool collection - examples: adjustable (crescent) wrenches, 12-point sockets, etc.
● just because the 1/2" socket or wrench kind of fits on that 12mm bolt, doesn't mean you should use it
#10
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• turn it the right way
● apply a penetrating oil such as Kroil 24 hours in advance if the fastener seems potentially frozen, rusted, corroded
● make sure you have good quality tools and the RIGHT tool - some tools cause so much trouble, they are banned from my tool collection - examples: adjustable (crescent) wrenches, 12-point sockets, etc.
Right tool for the job.
Adjustable crescent wrenches have their place. The screw-type adjustable wrenches are great for hammering things or throwing across the shop when you crack that nut free and bash your hand into something hard and sharp! Throw the crescent wrench and save your good tools from unwanted damage!
Adjustable slip-joint wrenches/pliers like a "channel-lock" are must haves and not to be confused with crescent wrenches although I routinely hear people refer to them interchangeably... Slip-joints are for pushing back brake calipers and test ball joints.
● just because the 1/2" socket or wrench kind of fits on that 12mm bolt, doesn't mean you should use it
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This is a valid question im looking into it as well and was going to ask the same question.
Rockauto does show two part numbers both say they have EVO but one part number has an E at the end.
Rockauto does show two part numbers both say they have EVO but one part number has an E at the end.
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DJ8684
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08-10-14 02:47 PM