Cannot separate UCA ball joint from steering knuckle
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Cannot separate UCA ball joint from steering knuckle
When I was replacing right UCA, I used the pulman tool to separate the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle. However, the pulman barely did anything as it was holding by less than a hair and kept slipping off. It was so frustrating to use the damn thing, but luckily I noticed that the joint separated - my feeling was it would have separated if I just gave it a mean look....
So today I wanted to do my left side UCA and didn't rent the pulman tool, thinking - I will just give it a tap or two with a hammer. Well, I have been hitting the damn thing for half an hour and it would not separate!
I even jacked up the suspension a little, or a lot, to try and get the angle right so that it just slides out, and nothing. It's as if it is welded in there. I really don't get it. I mean, to put in the new arm, you just slide it in. But to pull it out, even banging it with a hammer, it will not budge.
Finally I just gave up and put the whole thing together without replacing it. I will rent the pulman tomorrow, but I am not sure how it will work when it really has nothing to grab onto.
Have others experienced the same problem with the pulman not having enough there to grab and hold? Mine literally has a hair, it is not even a 1/32 of an inch. If the tool was a little narrower it would be a lot better. BTW I rent it from O'reilly.
So today I wanted to do my left side UCA and didn't rent the pulman tool, thinking - I will just give it a tap or two with a hammer. Well, I have been hitting the damn thing for half an hour and it would not separate!
I even jacked up the suspension a little, or a lot, to try and get the angle right so that it just slides out, and nothing. It's as if it is welded in there. I really don't get it. I mean, to put in the new arm, you just slide it in. But to pull it out, even banging it with a hammer, it will not budge.
Finally I just gave up and put the whole thing together without replacing it. I will rent the pulman tomorrow, but I am not sure how it will work when it really has nothing to grab onto.
Have others experienced the same problem with the pulman not having enough there to grab and hold? Mine literally has a hair, it is not even a 1/32 of an inch. If the tool was a little narrower it would be a lot better. BTW I rent it from O'reilly.
#4
You have to hit te knuckle like a beast and it will just pop out. Don't hit the ball joint or the threads, just the cast knuckle. Try it with a small sledge hammer if needed. I have used this technique my entire life and never had one not pop out. Just takes some real oomph sometimes lol.
#5
When I installed my coilovers I bought this from HF
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
but had trouble with it grabbing on enough so I grinded down the inside to get it more into the balljoint and it worked like a charm. You could always use the pitchfork seperator kind and just hammer at it
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
but had trouble with it grabbing on enough so I grinded down the inside to get it more into the balljoint and it worked like a charm. You could always use the pitchfork seperator kind and just hammer at it
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yup, that's the tool I used last time. I will try it again this weekend.
Thanks for all the suggestions, I hope I don't have to take the whole thing out and bang the heck out of it.
Thanks for all the suggestions, I hope I don't have to take the whole thing out and bang the heck out of it.
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#8
spray penetrating lubricant (pb blaster), put some tension on the joint using the tool pictured above, and hit the knuckle (not the tool) in between the tool with a hammer. the shock should separate the stubborn joint.
i usually keep the castle nut in place but loosened so the joint doesn't fully separate immediately, hitting me in the face! don't put the tool on the castle nut however.
hammer the red spot!
i usually keep the castle nut in place but loosened so the joint doesn't fully separate immediately, hitting me in the face! don't put the tool on the castle nut however.
hammer the red spot!
#13
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
This is like mine:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/att...icture073.jpeg
I think I even detailed it in the coil over install how-to I did (that PD keeps forgetting to put in the FAQ )
It helps to run the nut down so the tip if the bolt is flush with the top of the nut.
Also helps to use a hammer to get the puller a little deeper onto the top of the knuckle.
If that doesn't work, there is a little nipple on one edge.corner of the knuckle. Strike that with a BFH and it will pop the joint. You don't need to hit it more than once or beat the living hell out of the knuckle. One good strike is all you need, just don't be a f'ing pansy... hit it like a f'ing man!
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
I've used a better version of the harbour freight tool on my UBJ and it worked perfectly fine....
This is like mine:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/att...icture073.jpeg
I think I even detailed it in the coil over install how-to I did (that PD keeps forgetting to put in the FAQ )
It helps to run the nut down so the tip if the bolt is flush with the top of the nut.
Also helps to use a hammer to get the puller a little deeper onto the top of the knuckle.
If that doesn't work, there is a little nipple on one edge.corner of the knuckle. Strike that with a BFH and it will pop the joint. You don't need to hit it more than once or beat the living hell out of the knuckle. One good strike is all you need, just don't be a f'ing pansy... hit it like a f'ing man!
This is like mine:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/att...icture073.jpeg
I think I even detailed it in the coil over install how-to I did (that PD keeps forgetting to put in the FAQ )
It helps to run the nut down so the tip if the bolt is flush with the top of the nut.
Also helps to use a hammer to get the puller a little deeper onto the top of the knuckle.
If that doesn't work, there is a little nipple on one edge.corner of the knuckle. Strike that with a BFH and it will pop the joint. You don't need to hit it more than once or beat the living hell out of the knuckle. One good strike is all you need, just don't be a f'ing pansy... hit it like a f'ing man!
BTW, Shmee have you tried using the same tool for lower ball joints? I would imagine it should work right?
I appreciate all the other input, and was going to get the Autozone tool, but the nearest autozone is some 40 minutes away, one way, so that's 1.5 hrs... and Napa is only around the corner from me.
Thanks!