LexLS

that pic didn't go the first time

spxChrome

Took me about 30 minutes.

First pull up the front and back door carpet trim. Don't have to pull it all of just the first to clasps.

The pull on the side panel behind the seat belt. It has 2 clasps on both side at the bottom and then 4 metal clasps in the middle. Try to pull as close the the clasp and you can so you don't break the trim.

This piece pops right off and then pull it from under the carpet trim to remove it.

Then you will see 3 bolts. 2 that hold on the headrest motor (i tink) and one above that that holds on the wire tube. Unplug the headrest motor (blue plug in) and then slide the motor out and to the side.

Behind this is where the plug is to replace the switch.

This is were it gets tricky. I did each side different. You can kind of tug on the old switch and use a flat schrewdriver to release the clasp or you can remove the entire housing that the plug is connected to.

The later you have to be carfull because you have to remove 2 more plastic clasps that will easily break.

Plug the switch in and put everything back together.


Here is the only kicker I ran across. Once I replaced the first switch the lights started working so I was good the go.

The second switch no the drivers door didn't work. (thus the reason I removed the white housing), but I later figured out by luck that the reason it didn't work is because the switch was not screwed into the door so it was not grounded by the bolt.

All in all no big deal, just be carefull not to break any molding, mine was kind of old and fragile and remember it may not work until you ground it with the bolt that actually holds the switch on the door.

BTW - I paid $15.35 a piece for my switches? And I recommend ordering them yourself from the parts counter. This took 2 days. I actually placed an order with my service rep over a week ago and those still haven't came in. So I ordered them myself and didn't tell him.

The back door should be interesting. It looks a little more complicated and I may just leave it alone. Only 1 back door switch is out.

Good Luck - I feel much better having my new switches in. Now I don't have to worry about locking my keys in my car or running my battery down

spxChrome

yup that's it. the back door switches have green and black wires so you got the right ones if you are replacing the front. and they are different from the back

LexLS

Thanks so much!!!!!! I'm still not sure if I'm going to brave the cold tomorrow and swap the switch, it's only going to be 20 degrees here and I don't have a heated garage, we'll see...

pscmj

earl!,

This job is pretty much like spx and I have explained. The hardest part is getting the panel clips to release, and then to get them reseated properly when reinstalling. As long as you are careful, everything should be OK, and is very intuitive once you're inside the door post. I guess the only concern I would have in your case is that cold makes things more brittle ... may be more apt to break a clip. Perhaps making sure at least the inside of your car is warmed-up before you start the job might not be a bad idea. Just a friendly suggestion for insurance pruposes.

LexLS

Guys, I fixed my front passenger courtesy switch today in the 20 degree weather and all my lights work properly now! I'm still going to replace the drivers side, since its almost dead, but I'll do that when it's warmer outside. It ended up taking me about an hour due to the cold and I was taking pics of it all. The next one will be super easy.

kreativ

Any tips on getting the seat belt anchor motor out of the way?

I attempted to replace the front courtesy light switches on my '91 LS a few weeks ago, and the panels came off easy enough. But I chickened out when trying to remove the seat belt anchor motor. I remember removing two bolts on one side of the motor, and that there were two rubber plugs on the other side. I couldn't get the motor to budge, so just ended up splicing the wires on the old and new switches, and using crimp fittings. Took about 2 minutes to replace the switch this way.

The wires of the switch on the passenger side front door, however, don't pull out enough through the hole for me to splice the wires. So I'm going to have to get to it the proper way through the inside panel.

I think DevilDog said that to access the connector for the rear switches, you have to remove the seats. The alternative, if the wire pulls out enough through the hole, is to splice the wires, and either solder them together or use crimp fittings.

The front switches cost $12 a piece from the Toyota dealer (vs. $20 a piece at the Lexus dealer).

spxChrome

When you remove the two bolts the seat belt motor should move out of the way. You make even more room if you unplug the blue wire from the seatbelt motor. I didn't take the white piece out on the first side. I just a flat head screw driver to pop the click and pulled on the wires with my other hand. Just remeber the run the switch inside the door first

kreativ

Thanks. I replaced the switch on the passenger-side front door today. Hopefully, it'll be good for another 10 years.

This seems like a common problem with aging LS', so hopefully more people find this thread. A title change would be helpful.

spxChrome

For sure a problem I think it has alot to do with how heavy the doors are. Just to much force for those small switches.

damon

Is the rear 84231-50020?

My passenger rear just gave up the ghost.

Part description,: SWITCH, COURTESY LAM

spxChrome

I believe so, just make sure they are green and black, red and black are for the front.

lorenzo816

Hey fellas!


isn't this the link?

might help

oldskewel

iTrader: (1)

Not any more. This is it:
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/elect...fcourtesy.html

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

i am normally against old thread bumps but in this case, well done