Brake Calipers - How Urgent?
10-06-14, 09:28 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Brake Calipers - How Urgent?
1st gen lexus, meaning any money I put in to this car I won't get back. I plan to keep it another two years max. During past 2 or 3 months, twice experienced car pulling to one side when braking. Not violently, but definitely noticeable. Was told one of the brake calipers seizing could cause this. Could there be any other explanation? Assuming mechanic is right (and sadly he probably is)...
Mechanic said one side measured 1 mm less, and that calipers should be replaced in pairs. I know that is wise, but is it necessary? To do both? Also, I can get a new set for $750 and change (he's getting them at a discount), or I can go with reman for a little more than $500. Is reman really that bad? I would prefer to save the difference if at all possible. Also do these prices sound reasonable. Includes labor and brake bleed. One more thing: Can I buy any more time, or must this be done ASAP? I don't do freeway driving -- mostly stop and go in traffic!
Mechanic said one side measured 1 mm less, and that calipers should be replaced in pairs. I know that is wise, but is it necessary? To do both? Also, I can get a new set for $750 and change (he's getting them at a discount), or I can go with reman for a little more than $500. Is reman really that bad? I would prefer to save the difference if at all possible. Also do these prices sound reasonable. Includes labor and brake bleed. One more thing: Can I buy any more time, or must this be done ASAP? I don't do freeway driving -- mostly stop and go in traffic!
Last edited by PlotPoint; 10-06-14 at 09:32 PM.
10-06-14, 09:58 PM
#2
Could be as simple a the flexible hose too... But don't mess around when it come to brake. This could be the difference between life and death for you, your passenger or anybody else near the car in an emergency braking situation.
Just my 2 cents
Just my 2 cents
10-06-14, 11:29 PM
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
Ok, thanks. I will make sure he's ruled out everything else. Though would the 1 millimeter difference in wear necessarily mean that it's the caliper? I don't recall exactly what he said, but something about 1 mm difference side to side.
10-06-14, 11:39 PM
#4
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Never have a mechanic buy your bits. They go for the cheapest **** they can find, unless its the dealer.
go to rockauto.com for a 1994 To get loaded calipers for the front, is 84.79 including core, and thats with pads and stuff from Centric. Or you can get a bare Raybestos caliper for 64.79 including the core.
$750 FFS.... come on people.
go to rockauto.com for a 1994 To get loaded calipers for the front, is 84.79 including core, and thats with pads and stuff from Centric. Or you can get a bare Raybestos caliper for 64.79 including the core.
$750 FFS.... come on people.
10-07-14, 01:05 AM
#5
Centric caliper rebuild kits are like <$15 for both fronts. 20 minutes and boom, new caliper.
The sliding pins may just need lube, meaning you don't even need a rebuild.
But if you have no idea what you're doing, a shop is probably a good idea. the 1mm difference is minimal.
The sliding pins may just need lube, meaning you don't even need a rebuild.
But if you have no idea what you're doing, a shop is probably a good idea. the 1mm difference is minimal.
10-07-14, 01:09 AM
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
Never have a mechanic buy your bits. They go for the cheapest **** they can find, unless its the dealer.
go to rockauto.com for a 1994 To get loaded calipers for the front, is 84.79 including core, and thats with pads and stuff from Centric. Or you can get a bare Raybestos caliper for 64.79 including the core.
$750 FFS.... come on people.
go to rockauto.com for a 1994 To get loaded calipers for the front, is 84.79 including core, and thats with pads and stuff from Centric. Or you can get a bare Raybestos caliper for 64.79 including the core.
$750 FFS.... come on people.
10-07-14, 01:11 AM
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
Centric caliper rebuild kits are like <$15 for both fronts. 20 minutes and boom, new caliper.
The sliding pins may just need lube, meaning you don't even need a rebuild.
But if you have no idea what you're doing, a shop is probably a good idea. the 1mm difference is minimal.
The sliding pins may just need lube, meaning you don't even need a rebuild.
But if you have no idea what you're doing, a shop is probably a good idea. the 1mm difference is minimal.
Last edited by PlotPoint; 10-07-14 at 01:16 AM.
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10-07-14, 01:22 AM
#9
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Well as PD said, you could rebuild them. BUT IMO only if your meticulous. I have never done it without scrubbing everything, making sure its 100% clean and then putting GOOD grease all up in there. But the only TRUE full blown rebuilds ive done was on brake cylinders, but you guys probably dont remember those lol
If your not mechanically inclined, just ordering full calipers is pretty easy, and when you send the core back you get up to $25 back, so they come out REALLY cheap compared to that $750/$550 pricetag. For that price, you could do all 4, and the hoses, and the pads, and still have beer money at the end of the day.
If your not mechanically inclined, just ordering full calipers is pretty easy, and when you send the core back you get up to $25 back, so they come out REALLY cheap compared to that $750/$550 pricetag. For that price, you could do all 4, and the hoses, and the pads, and still have beer money at the end of the day.
Last edited by cgawelko; 10-07-14 at 01:25 AM.
10-07-14, 02:16 AM
#10
The grease you want for toyota seals is sil-glyde, and here in socal at least is available at both wal-mart and autozone. All you need beyond that is brake cleaner, a scrubby brush (nonmettalic so as to not score the bore), and an air compressor to push out the piston. 1st gen cars are the easiest as they only have one-two pistons per caliper and they aren't opposed. 2nd gen 4 pot brakes get a bit annoying.
Full calipers are the lazy way out
Full calipers are the lazy way out
10-07-14, 03:18 AM
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Well, seeing as he is dealing with shops, I dont think he is going to have a compressor and stuff. maybe full calipers would be the way to go. The BEST way to learn how to work on a car, is with your own. If you mess up, you feel it, and you will automatically know what you did wrong. Or if you nail it and get it all right, you feel great and will wanna do more. but once that starts. there is no stopping it.
DONT FORGET TO BLEED THE BRAKES!
for liability reasons, I need to make sure you understand the brakes need to be bled of ALL air pockets.
DONT FORGET TO BLEED THE BRAKES!
for liability reasons, I need to make sure you understand the brakes need to be bled of ALL air pockets.
10-07-14, 10:03 AM
#12
My suggestion is to buy the loaded caliper. The R&R is much faster and that time savings is worth it. If you really have the urge to rebuild, PD has it covered. Invariably you find that some part has worn more and that even with a rebuild kit, it was better off being replaced. (Bent, dent, scratch/gouge, etc.)
I've become time conscious/lazy. I want to get in-out as fast as possible. Rebuilding stuff is not my desire these days.
I've become time conscious/lazy. I want to get in-out as fast as possible. Rebuilding stuff is not my desire these days.
10-07-14, 12:54 PM
#13
My suggestion is to buy the loaded caliper. The R&R is much faster and that time savings is worth it. If you really have the urge to rebuild, PD has it covered. Invariably you find that some part has worn more and that even with a rebuild kit, it was better off being replaced. (Bent, dent, scratch/gouge, etc.)
I've become time conscious/lazy. I want to get in-out as fast as possible. Rebuilding stuff is not my desire these days.
I've become time conscious/lazy. I want to get in-out as fast as possible. Rebuilding stuff is not my desire these days.
10-08-14, 01:33 AM
#14
