sub replacement
#16
Originally posted by Earl!
Oh, and is the thing actually the sub amp??? In the top corner of the Pioneer label it says 2Ohm.
Oh, and is the thing actually the sub amp??? In the top corner of the Pioneer label it says 2Ohm.
Thanks,
GA400
#17
Lexus Test Driver
spx - Four bolts hold the sub in place, and three bolts hold the amp in place, one bolt is under a plastic cover. Yes I am replaceing the sub&, in fact I'm in the process of installing my whole system which I'll post pics when I'm done so you guys can all see. The sub I'm going to be using is an Infinity perfect 10.1 in a custom sealed box I built.
GA400 - I guess since the sub does also say 2Ohms that little dinky thing in my pic is the sub amp! It was located in the trunk to the left of the gas tank. As far as wiring, I'm running all new cables. Power straight from the battery to amp, RCAs straight from the sub output of my HU to amp, along with remote turn on and another wire for my amp straight from the HU to amp. Keep in mind that all this is a lot of work and the options discussed earlier in this thread are good ways to improve your bass. I'm a bass player so I take bass seriously, gotta go all out!!!
GA400 - I guess since the sub does also say 2Ohms that little dinky thing in my pic is the sub amp! It was located in the trunk to the left of the gas tank. As far as wiring, I'm running all new cables. Power straight from the battery to amp, RCAs straight from the sub output of my HU to amp, along with remote turn on and another wire for my amp straight from the HU to amp. Keep in mind that all this is a lot of work and the options discussed earlier in this thread are good ways to improve your bass. I'm a bass player so I take bass seriously, gotta go all out!!!
#19
Originally posted by Earl!
Oh, and is the thing actually the sub amp??? In the top corner of the Pioneer label it says 2Ohm.
Oh, and is the thing actually the sub amp??? In the top corner of the Pioneer label it says 2Ohm.
Last edited by LOTC; 04-02-03 at 09:43 PM.
#20
Originally posted by Earl!
spx - Four bolts hold the sub in place, and three bolts hold the amp in place, one bolt is under a plastic cover. Yes I am replaceing the sub&, in fact I'm in the process of installing my whole system which I'll post pics when I'm done so you guys can all see. The sub I'm going to be using is an Infinity perfect 10.1 in a custom sealed box I built.
GA400 - I guess since the sub does also say 2Ohms that little dinky thing in my pic is the sub amp! It was located in the trunk to the left of the gas tank. As far as wiring, I'm running all new cables. Power straight from the battery to amp, RCAs straight from the sub output of my HU to amp, along with remote turn on and another wire for my amp straight from the HU to amp. Keep in mind that all this is a lot of work and the options discussed earlier in this thread are good ways to improve your bass. I'm a bass player so I take bass seriously, gotta go all out!!!
spx - Four bolts hold the sub in place, and three bolts hold the amp in place, one bolt is under a plastic cover. Yes I am replaceing the sub&, in fact I'm in the process of installing my whole system which I'll post pics when I'm done so you guys can all see. The sub I'm going to be using is an Infinity perfect 10.1 in a custom sealed box I built.
GA400 - I guess since the sub does also say 2Ohms that little dinky thing in my pic is the sub amp! It was located in the trunk to the left of the gas tank. As far as wiring, I'm running all new cables. Power straight from the battery to amp, RCAs straight from the sub output of my HU to amp, along with remote turn on and another wire for my amp straight from the HU to amp. Keep in mind that all this is a lot of work and the options discussed earlier in this thread are good ways to improve your bass. I'm a bass player so I take bass seriously, gotta go all out!!!
Thanks for all the information. I am really looking forward to seeing pics of your system. I am still torn between replacing the sub or doing both a head unit and sub replacement. I currently use a mini-disc player going through the cassete portion of my factory deck. It sounds pretty good, but a head unit that plays mp3's would be so much more convenient.
GA400
#21
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Is that amp just for the sub or the entire system. If all I wanted to do was replace the sub and amp with parts that would plug and play into the same slots what would you recommend? I am pretty sure I want to go with the JBL Free Air Sub, just don't know what AMP would be a good AMP to replace the stock AMP with, without having to add any other components or wires?
#22
Lexus Test Driver
I can't wait until I get my system in, I'm dyin here without my sub!
spx - I'm almost positive that the factory amp is only for the sub. Sounds like you want to keep things simple, so if that's what you want stick to that route. I'm a little out of the equipment loop these days, but I know the JBL will be a good choice. If you're going for the JBL sub maybe you should look into the JBL amps? I think they're not too much $. Then just get one of those adaptors discussed earlier so you won't have to run wires. You could then mount the amp under the rear deck of the trunk, that's my plan. I need to keep as much trunk space as possible.
Earl!
spx - I'm almost positive that the factory amp is only for the sub. Sounds like you want to keep things simple, so if that's what you want stick to that route. I'm a little out of the equipment loop these days, but I know the JBL will be a good choice. If you're going for the JBL sub maybe you should look into the JBL amps? I think they're not too much $. Then just get one of those adaptors discussed earlier so you won't have to run wires. You could then mount the amp under the rear deck of the trunk, that's my plan. I need to keep as much trunk space as possible.
Earl!
#23
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Having a problem finding a JBL in town so I may go with an Alpine 10" 600-Watt or a Polk 10" 400-Watt Subwoofer?
Since it needs to be a Free Air Sub they are rated like this:
Fs - Free Air Resonance (Hz)
Is the lower number the better or the higher number:
The Alpine is 33
The Polk is 39.6
Also, if I get a power amp sub does it still need the converter?
Since it needs to be a Free Air Sub they are rated like this:
Fs - Free Air Resonance (Hz)
Is the lower number the better or the higher number:
The Alpine is 33
The Polk is 39.6
Also, if I get a power amp sub does it still need the converter?
#24
Lexus Test Driver
Well, I've been working a ton on finishing up my system. Currently I am almost done with the sound proofing. Here's a preview of my trunk, it's not done yet. Still need to build a new wall to cover up the gas tank. The box is bolted to the rear deck, it probably weighs around 30 pounds, it's on there solid and doesn't even rattle the deck much. I'm going to post all my system pics sometime soon in the electronics forum.
#25
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Let me know when you get it ready I want to see the pics. I am having a hard time finding a free air sub since nobody seems to make/carry them anymore. What sub and amp did you buy? Do remember if that sub is an 8 or 10? I looked at mine and looks like a 8?
#27
Lexus Test Driver
Here it is
Well, I'm almost done with my system now and have the pics posted; here's the link:
Earl's LS Sytem
That link has links to everything else.
dunn - I am going to take a guess that you speakers are powered by the deck, that is the case with most car audio systems. All I know for sure is that you should look in the trunk for the sub amp.
spx - I bought a Infinity Perfect 10.1 sub a while ago when I worked at an electronics store (everything at store cost!), along with my Kenwood Excelon KDC-X815 deck and Kenwood Excelon KAC-X201T amp. By running one extra wire to the trunk I can control almost everything the amp can do, boost bass, level, etc. Oh yeah, and in a 91 LS it's an 8" sub. Also, any sub will "work," it's just that some are designed to be used in a free air application.
Earl!
Earl's LS Sytem
That link has links to everything else.
dunn - I am going to take a guess that you speakers are powered by the deck, that is the case with most car audio systems. All I know for sure is that you should look in the trunk for the sub amp.
spx - I bought a Infinity Perfect 10.1 sub a while ago when I worked at an electronics store (everything at store cost!), along with my Kenwood Excelon KDC-X815 deck and Kenwood Excelon KAC-X201T amp. By running one extra wire to the trunk I can control almost everything the amp can do, boost bass, level, etc. Oh yeah, and in a 91 LS it's an 8" sub. Also, any sub will "work," it's just that some are designed to be used in a free air application.
Earl!
#28
Earl,
Great pics, great info, especially for someone like me who doesn't have the first clue about building a sub enclosure (but is pretty darn interested now, after your expample) Question for you; does the sub enclosure transmit into the cabin via the factory sub hole? If I wanted to duplicate the sub enclosure you made for myself, would I need to follow a formula or something to build the enclosure for the sub I purchase or just build what fits properly? Also, for the sub amp, did you need a converter or just take the leads off the factory sub amp and hook them right up to the new amp?
Thanks
GA400
Great pics, great info, especially for someone like me who doesn't have the first clue about building a sub enclosure (but is pretty darn interested now, after your expample) Question for you; does the sub enclosure transmit into the cabin via the factory sub hole? If I wanted to duplicate the sub enclosure you made for myself, would I need to follow a formula or something to build the enclosure for the sub I purchase or just build what fits properly? Also, for the sub amp, did you need a converter or just take the leads off the factory sub amp and hook them right up to the new amp?
Thanks
GA400
#29
Lexus Test Driver
GA400,
Yes the sub mainly tranfers into the cabin via the factory sub hole, it also goes through the 4 smaller holes behind the rear seat back but to a smaller degree. If you wanted to duplicate my enclosure you would need to buy the same sub I have. I would recommend to first buy/pick out the sub you will be using since they're all different and have different requirements for internal volume. Then you can go about designing what you want - sealed, ported, bandpass.....size....mounting location...etc. I can help you out more if you want, but maybe you should start a new thread on box building or something. My amp is run straight from my deck with RCA cables, remote turn on, and a special wire for controling the bass levels. The power is run straight from the battery. Hope that helps ya.
Earl!
Yes the sub mainly tranfers into the cabin via the factory sub hole, it also goes through the 4 smaller holes behind the rear seat back but to a smaller degree. If you wanted to duplicate my enclosure you would need to buy the same sub I have. I would recommend to first buy/pick out the sub you will be using since they're all different and have different requirements for internal volume. Then you can go about designing what you want - sealed, ported, bandpass.....size....mounting location...etc. I can help you out more if you want, but maybe you should start a new thread on box building or something. My amp is run straight from my deck with RCA cables, remote turn on, and a special wire for controling the bass levels. The power is run straight from the battery. Hope that helps ya.
Earl!
#30
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Well I finally found the sub I was looking for: JBL LC S1050W. But I thought this was a free air sub. The description says this speaker is good for small sealed and vented boxes?
What's up with that? I thought this sub was made not to have to use a box?
What's up with that? I thought this sub was made not to have to use a box?