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i'm still tearing all front end apart, fenders all the wiring in it. Lights, fog lights bumpers are out aswell. Gonna take the radiator and abs stuff away today. Probably engine will come out next week fingers crossed. Gonna take all the front suspension as well because its upgraded or atleast breaks are. Rear end is also work for other week differential, propshaft, exhaust with O2 sensors because mine was crushed and wielded before.. bad road experience. Still wondering how to make my air suspension work with adjustable HID lights or gonna stay with SLEEPer look u know 95 front end and some big power up inside.
And btw sorry for my crappy english.
pis ? u mean pictures ?
this how it looked before
this is how its starts to look now dont have yesterdays photos uploaded yet but gonna continue my job until ive got my timing belt kit and it takes a long time for this in Lithuania... gonna take an ages for starter/power stearing repair kits to come also..
now trying to mark every single connector and put all the screws from one part into one bag and others to different just to be sure i wont loose any or put the wrong one.
already found Europe type cluster with only kilometers and navi/heater in it from half burnt LHD so i have the guy who can make uk cluster to become EU. Other thing that worries me is airbag block how to make sure it blow the right bag in case of crash do i need LHD airbag block ? or i can just rewire it ? and yes i'm going to take full heated seats interior because winters in Lithuania are -22 in
Fahrenheit.
Ah your not going to do the timing belt with engine in car are you? Save all that for when the engine is out.
You have a lot of time to wait for any engine related parts to come. All your time is moving the electrical stuff, and you have another car to remove an engine from as well. If it was me and I was taking the engine out of the top, I would remove the transmission first. If its coming out the bottom then I'd leave the transmission on.
still thinking how to pull engine out of it. Is it hard to split transmission and engine apart ? i might take ur advice and take it out of the top with forklift i've got in warehouse.
All of wrenching is just tedious I don't call it hard. You really need some good manuals. It will be just easier with the trans off to maneuver the engine out. I think the easiest would be to drop it all down but you need a hoist for that.
well Thank you . Yesterday got all the fluids drained, took off both radiators, abs block, part of engine harness. Were looking at the manual and saw that Lexus recommends to pull engine with the transmission together. just need to disconnect some engine engine wiring power steering hoses ac high pressure hoses and alternator wiring. Bought http://www.bardahl.nl/en/ Tune and flush to clear or germs and varnish in engine block and oil lines then FULL METAL and full synthetic oil 5w30. The timing belt kit with water pump should come friday. If i have some spare time in work gonna put jumpers on the battery and push front seats back to reach the bolts. Again forgot to take them off before pulling car apart . Still need to lift up the carpet and find out how to rewire or just change the air bag stuff between to make sure it works as a LHD car. I wish my self a luck.
Starter/power steering repair kits are ordered. What else i should look after?
And does the manual say remove it all from the bottom? If the crossmember on top in front of the radiator would come out then yeah engine and trans would come out easy from the top. It will be a very tight affair and will need some good way to tip the whole unit eng and trans to get them out together from the top.
And does the manual say remove it all from the bottom? If the crossmember on top in front of the radiator would come out then yeah engine and trans would come out easy from the top. It will be a very tight affair and will need some good way to tip the whole unit eng and trans to get them out together from the top.
Let us know how easy it is. I've done the eng tran unit before and its trouble. But I do everything alone with no help pretty much. When the time comes I'm taking out the trans first, you'll see how much fun it is. With the trans on your lift point and center of gravity is going to be about 6 inches or so in front of the engine transmission flange area its quite the balancing act, you will need a load leveler and that reduces the lift height of the cherry picker type engine hoist. And you end up having a hard time clearing the front of the car. Last engine I R and R'd was a 4x4 truck it barley made it with the oil pan on and no transmission.
With transmission on having a special bolt on lift bracket kind of like used on the carburetor flange engines would make it easier, but then still can't control the tipping and center of gravity too well. When you use cable or chain engine lift adapters it takes up the lift height. Using a beam or gantry hoist with a tall enough roof then no problems with lift height.
I just prefer not to scratch paint etc when removing and installing an engine and that's my main reason for getting the extra weight and hassle out of the way.
The transmission will need lots of padding on it to keep from scratching the fire wall and what ever else.
I have also had to twist the engine at an angle like the fan towards the passenger side or vise versa to get engine to clear things on the way out, you can not do that with trans on, but yeah the LS manual says its all cool so go for it.
Let us know how easy it is. I've done the eng tran unit before and its trouble. But I do everything alone with no help pretty much. When the time comes I'm taking out the trans first, you'll see how much fun it is. With the trans on your lift point and center of gravity is going to be about 6 inches or so in front of the engine transmission flange area its quite the balancing act, you will need a load leveler and that reduces the lift height of the cherry picker type engine hoist. And you end up having a hard time clearing the front of the car. Last engine I R and R'd was a 4x4 truck it barley made it with the oil pan on and no transmission.
With transmission on having a special bolt on lift bracket kind of like used on the carburetor flange engines would make it easier, but then still can't control the tipping and center of gravity too well. When you use cable or chain engine lift adapters it takes up the lift height. Using a beam or gantry hoist with a tall enough roof then no problems with lift height.
I just prefer not to scratch paint etc when removing and installing an engine and that's my main reason for getting the extra weight and hassle out of the way.
The transmission will need lots of padding on it to keep from scratching the fire wall and what ever else.
I have also had to twist the engine at an angle like the fan towards the passenger side or vise versa to get engine to clear things on the way out, you can not do that with trans on, but yeah the LS manual says its all cool so go for it.
Ok i see the difficulty of situation, but how can u reach top bolts of trans while it sticked to engine? Or u have to take trans support bracket and loose engine mount bolts and pul it a bit down to get these 2 or 3 bolts to sepperate transmission? Tommorow gonna look at it for sure.
In a transmission shop they support the transmission remove the cross member and then lower the transmission it tilts the back of the engine down so a long extension can be used to reach them you may need to support the engine when removing it. And of course before you remove even one of those bolts on the bellhousing that attaches the trans to the engine, you need to remove the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate look in the manual. The torque converter needs to stay in the transmission during removal, and you should change that torque converter seal anyway since its all coming out of the car, just like all the engine seals too.
No matter how you do it, when that transmission is lowered keep a close eye on what the back of the engine may be hitting or crushing don't let it do that. If your pulling eng and tran as one unit you will want that trans on a scooter ie something that will follow the engine forward some before it is allowed to tip drastically.
And if the trans is being removed first you may need to loosen those mount bolts mentioned in the manual to allow it to tip and again keep an eye on what the back of the engine is going to hit or smash, some people don't care and just wham bam it. On old chevys there is a distributor that usually needs to be removed or it gets messed up on the firewall. On the LS we have very close space there and wire harness. How are you going to deal with the wire harness? It looks like you can leave it with the engine, and fish the ecu plugs out through the hole that runs through the fire wall. I don't know I've never done it. Please keep us all up to date and how its all going.
09-10-15, 03:00 AM
bad road experience. Still wondering how to make my air suspension work with adjustable HID lights or gonna stay with SLEEPer look u know 95 front end and some big power up inside.
. Yesterday got all the fluids drained, took off both radiators, abs block, part of engine harness. Were looking at the manual and saw that Lexus recommends to pull engine with the transmission together. just need to disconnect some engine engine wiring power steering hoses ac high pressure hoses and alternator wiring. Bought http://www.bardahl.nl/en/ Tune and flush to clear or germs and varnish in engine block and oil lines then FULL METAL and full synthetic oil 5w30. The timing belt kit with water pump should come friday. If i have some spare time in work gonna put jumpers on the battery and push front seats back to reach the bolts. Again forgot to take them off before pulling car apart 
. Still need to lift up the carpet and find out how to rewire or just change the air bag stuff between to make sure it works as a LHD car. I wish my self a luck.
