LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

'92 LS400 -motor has missing problem

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Old 09-25-15, 06:17 AM
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python
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knock sensors have to be torqued? just dont see how anyone could possibly do this job without removing half the upper part of the engine anyway. they are located in the valley.
Old 09-25-15, 04:07 PM
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sha4000
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Originally Posted by python
knock sensors have to be torqued? just dont see how anyone could possibly do this job without removing half the upper part of the engine anyway. they are located in the valley.
I did say that the WHOLE intake manifold has to be removed but it's not as hard to do as some make it out to be.
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Old 09-25-15, 08:33 PM
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thats not an hour job...hence my first reply which u questioned
Old 09-26-15, 10:29 AM
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Ok let me be clear. If you frequent this site and are comfortable working on these cars you should be able to remove the intake in an hour or less. Now if you frequent this site and are not really comfortable working on cars then this could take you a lot longer. I know lots of ppl on the forum like to say how easy a job was and how fast they did it but I'm not one of those ppl. I rebuilt the starter last year and i went real slow since I was unsure. After I got it back together It was still acting sluggish. Yes I tested it before putting it back together. I ended up having to remove the intake 2 more times. I had it off in 30 minutes. The hardest part is lifting it out since you have to work the angles and it's heavy. The same goes for putting it back on the engine.
Old 09-26-15, 06:47 PM
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Bprakash
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Has anyone traced their engine idle miss or acceleration hesitation to fuel injectors?
I still have these issues after addressing ECU caps, distributors, caps, rotors, plugs, wires, filters, TPS, throttle body cleaning and coolant sensor. Please advise.
Old 09-26-15, 07:04 PM
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Yamae
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Originally Posted by Bprakash
Has anyone traced their engine idle miss or acceleration hesitation to fuel injectors?
I still have these issues after addressing ECU caps, distributors, caps, rotors, plugs, wires, filters, TPS, throttle body cleaning and coolant sensor. Please advise.
Try bypassing the fuel pump resistor.
Old 09-26-15, 08:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by sha4000
Ok let me be clear. If you frequent this site and are comfortable working on these cars you should be able to remove the intake in an hour or less. Now if you frequent this site and are not really comfortable working on cars then this could take you a lot longer. I know lots of ppl on the forum like to say how easy a job was and how fast they did it but I'm not one of those ppl. I rebuilt the starter last year and i went real slow since I was unsure. After I got it back together It was still acting sluggish. Yes I tested it before putting it back together. I ended up having to remove the intake 2 more times. I had it off in 30 minutes. The hardest part is lifting it out since you have to work the angles and it's heavy. The same goes for putting it back on the engine.
An hour or less, yes I think that is possible. But here are the important steps to accomplish it.
You need these special tools. A utility knife, diagonal wire cutters, a small saw.
You will need to cut all the wires instead of disconnecting the connectors, and you will need to cut all rubber hoses, as there will be no time to play with crusty hoses and trying to carefully remove them. And any wires in the way same deal just cut them suckers, remove the various bolts etc. Don't worry about dropping any of them its not important just go as fast as you can and see if you can remove the intake in an hour or less. If all else fails maybe one of those abrasive cut of saws will help out.
Old 09-27-15, 06:41 AM
  #23  
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That may be your experience or non experience. I'm telling you I did it TWICE back to back. Didn't you read my previous post??? It's not about how quick/easy the job is I'm just stating it can be done!! Even when I pulled it the first time I had all the connectors off plus fuel line in under an hour. The only thing that slowed me down was trying to wiggle the intake off in one piece. You know, trying to find the right angle to clear the wire harness. I digress though since this thread is not even about what we are talking about and I see we are derailing it.
Old 10-06-15, 06:04 PM
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Yamae, I had a broken spark pug wire that was hitting the cam wheel under the distributor cap cover. Problem fixed. The idle had to be adjusted afterwards so the mechanic reset the main TPS, but this has caused some bucking at high speed. I will readjust tomorrow.

How do you adjust idle otherwise?
Old 10-06-15, 06:19 PM
  #25  
Yamae
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Originally Posted by Bprakash
Yamae, I had a broken spark pug wire that was hitting the cam wheel under the distributor cap cover. Problem fixed. The idle had to be adjusted afterwards so the mechanic reset the main TPS, but this has caused some bucking at high speed. I will readjust tomorrow.

How do you adjust idle otherwise?
There's no adjustment. The ECU controls the idle speed. When the idle is too high, something is failed. I'd check the IACV first.
Old 10-08-15, 01:32 PM
  #26  
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All my hesitation fixed. TPS set properly and bad spark plug wire replaced. Beautiful old car that is still modern.
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