Looked for exhaust leaks, now car pulsates
10-10-15, 10:25 AM
#16
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I don't think that hose was broken through, ran the car while moving and covering it, no change.
The starter was replaced earlier this year, probably 7 months ago or so by a trusted local shop.
I have no knowledge of a VSV, sorry can't answer that but that throws codes PO441 PO446 which I'm not getting.
Tried the propane thing using a plumbers torch putting it all around the throttle body and left and right sides of intake, no change in RPM. I do hear a hissing sound around the throttle body but it could be normal and just my ears looking for something at this point.
I made a new gasket for the metal plate that covers the tiny holes on the throttle body, no change.
The starter was replaced earlier this year, probably 7 months ago or so by a trusted local shop.
I have no knowledge of a VSV, sorry can't answer that but that throws codes PO441 PO446 which I'm not getting.
Tried the propane thing using a plumbers torch putting it all around the throttle body and left and right sides of intake, no change in RPM. I do hear a hissing sound around the throttle body but it could be normal and just my ears looking for something at this point.
I made a new gasket for the metal plate that covers the tiny holes on the throttle body, no change.
Last edited by DK Audio; 10-10-15 at 10:53 AM.
10-10-15, 10:08 PM
#19
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I appreciate the help guys. I just dropped the money and ordered both sides OCV, hope this fixes it, not the cheapest parts.
I got...
15330-0F010
15340-0F010
I got...
15330-0F010
15340-0F010
10-11-15, 06:55 AM
#20
Why would you order parts when your not even sure of whats wrong? Never understood the 'pay and pray' method of automotive repair. Do definitive diagnostic so you KNOW what you replace will fix the problem.
10-11-15, 08:10 AM
#21
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I know, I don't like to but it is getting cold out and I need my car for work, I need to try something. Plus two people in this thread said OCV plus that link to the other thread had the same symptoms as me too. I was doing some troubleshooting, read codes, checked for vacuum leaks, made a gasket on one part, etc.
10-11-15, 12:15 PM
#23
Agree, and sometimes it would be cheaper to have someone with a good scan tool that can test bi directional check it out first, then you know if that part is working or not. And of course that is only for 96 or maybe 95 and up. OBD1 won't do that as far as I know.
10-11-15, 04:26 PM
#24
Most if not all bi-directional stuff can be done manually as well if you are creative with a 12v power supply. I use a PowerProbe brand tool. All you need are 12v pos and neg on the solenoid to make it click on and off. It should also show some kind of resistance cold. You could check both and compare. You could try and blow through the valve while you click it on and off to see if flow occurs or not. I could go on and on.
10-11-15, 05:06 PM
#25
Moderator
The OCV tends to cause sticky problems when the sludge builds up as is shown below link. Sorry that it is all written in Japanese but see just photos.
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/itakame3/63947458.html
The OCV alone can be checked at the bench applying the DC12V as is explained by Gdwrench35.
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/itakame3/63947458.html
The OCV alone can be checked at the bench applying the DC12V as is explained by Gdwrench35.
10-11-15, 08:39 PM
#27
There is a screen but it's not on the OCV. I was getting all the misfire codes before I even got the code for the OCV. I cleaned my MAF and it helped, then I pulled all the plugs on bank 1 to check if any were fouled which they were not so I cleaned and put them back. I finally cleaned the OCV and it worked for a little but came back. Finally I bit the bullet and bought a new OCV and problem solved. I reiterate that the OCV code was present at the end so it was obvious at that point but it can start causing problems before the code is present.
10-12-15, 08:44 AM
#28
How long were you able to run the engine?
The ECU is designed to stop the fuel supply opening the circuit opening relay when no signal from the MAF for more than 3 seconds is detected.
The engine can start but it is supposed to stop after the fuel pressure becomes to low to inject.
Other than the MAF, the ECU forces to stop the voltage supply to the fuel pump at one of following conditions is detected.
No signal from the crank position sensor for more than 5 seconds.
No signal from the cam position sensor for more than 5 seconds.
No IGF signal from the igniter for more than 3 seconds although the IGT signal is sent.
The ECU is designed to stop the fuel supply opening the circuit opening relay when no signal from the MAF for more than 3 seconds is detected.
The engine can start but it is supposed to stop after the fuel pressure becomes to low to inject.
Other than the MAF, the ECU forces to stop the voltage supply to the fuel pump at one of following conditions is detected.
No signal from the crank position sensor for more than 5 seconds.
No signal from the cam position sensor for more than 5 seconds.
No IGF signal from the igniter for more than 3 seconds although the IGT signal is sent.
I moved it around my driveway and left it running for a few minutes while I bled the power steering (all intake piping removed for swapping pump).
I doubt it was running on residual fuel in the line, without power to the fuel pump, pressure would be too low to run at all.
Never took it out on the road with no MAF though - I value my catalyst
.
Last edited by djamps; 10-12-15 at 08:49 AM.
10-12-15, 05:23 PM
#29
The ECU is designed to stop the fuel supply opening the circuit opening relay when no signal from the MAF for more than 3 seconds is detected.
The engine can start but it is supposed to stop after the fuel pressure becomes to low to inject.
The engine can start but it is supposed to stop after the fuel pressure becomes to low to inject.
10-15-15, 07:11 PM
#30
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Guess I gotta give props to Gdwrench, now I'm extremely frustrated and out $240 at this point.
Finally got both OCVs today and put them in. I had the negative disconnected as I worked. I started the car and it ran rough, RPM's going from around 150 then up to 1500. I tried driving the car and my pedal wasn't responding. the CEL and check VSC / OFF came on. I shut the car off, erased codes and restarted it. I drove for a few miles and no lights came on but I still felt the car shaking when at a stop, it was smooth otherwise. Does the ECM need to learn everything again? A few miles should be enough for that I would think. I will take it to work tomorrow and see what happens, my guess is my CEL will come back on. I also noticed The OCV's looked a little different, perhaps there was a slight revision from 1998 until now.
Finally got both OCVs today and put them in. I had the negative disconnected as I worked. I started the car and it ran rough, RPM's going from around 150 then up to 1500. I tried driving the car and my pedal wasn't responding. the CEL and check VSC / OFF came on. I shut the car off, erased codes and restarted it. I drove for a few miles and no lights came on but I still felt the car shaking when at a stop, it was smooth otherwise. Does the ECM need to learn everything again? A few miles should be enough for that I would think. I will take it to work tomorrow and see what happens, my guess is my CEL will come back on. I also noticed The OCV's looked a little different, perhaps there was a slight revision from 1998 until now.