DK Audio

Just ordered Bank 1 S1 and Bank 2 S1 from Rock Auto, with everything I have already done I sure hope this takes car of it. I got Denso which are OEM for Japanese cars.

Gdwrench35

An O2 sensor and an A/F sensor are in essence the same thing. Typically, Toyota is the only manufacturer that calls them A/F sensors. The reading from an A/F is backwards from that of the 02 sensor but they do the same thing.

And the reason for unplugging the sensor connector was to remove a possible short being back fed to the ECM. If the heater circuit shorts or shorts into the signal line on the A/F, it can pull the ECM signal line down. This is what would cause your drive ability symptom. If you unplugged the sensor (the correct sensor) and your symptoms didn't go away, then that's likely not the cause of the issue. Still very likely the cause of the code, but not the misfires which is what your complaining about. Like I've said several times before, prove out the part with your brain, not your wallet.

djamps

Heater circuit codes are almost always a failed sensor though, it's best he replaces a failed O2 sensor ASAP even if it isn't exactly why the misfire is happening. Keeping an eye on this thread for results. I'm thinking one of the cat's MAY have taken a hit from the failed sensor tho -- worth looking into.

Gdwrench35

Heater circuit codes mean just that, the heater has failed. Once the sensor reaches op temp, which takes minutes if that, it can still function correctly. MOST of the time when I see heater circuit failure, the sensor continues to switch normally once warmed up.

Thats where the importance of the data stream comes in. Thats the only way to know if your sensor is skewing your fuel trims enough to cause a lean miss. I really doubt this is the case until I see some data. Your more likely to be sucking air at an intake gasket or a failed EVAP sensor.

I will agree the sensors need to be changed, and while I hope for your wallets sake they fix your issue, again, I doubt it.

DK Audio

Great, well, the sensors arrive tomorrow. I have no fancy tools to see data streams or anything like that. I'm worried if this doesn't do it I will have to bring it in I'm well over $300 already, I know I'm not being the most patient with troubleshooting but it is getting cold here in MN and I have been without the car for 15 days now, I really need it back for getting to work.

This is the correct procedure for putting in the sensors right?...
Disconnect negative of battery
Take out sensors
Verify new ones have anti-seaze on threads
Put in new ones
Connected battery
Clear codes
Drive

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Correct......

Gdwrench35

Other than there is no need to unhook the battery, yes, you are correct. Just make sure you have the key off when you unplug and re-connect the sensor connections.

DK Audio

Damn it!!!

Replaced both sides sensor 1 with OEM Denso's, same thing, all the codes...
171
300
301
303
305
307

Yes, I did clear the codes before driving. Car still pulses at a stop and I have exhaust popping noises.

djamps

I know someone already mentioned it and you said it wasn't 'glowing' but it still kinda seems one of your cats may be clogged. Perhaps due to the failed sensor. worth dropping them down and inspecting at least.

Gdwrench35

If the cat was clogged, then you would get rich codes, not lean codes. Your cat is NOT the problem. Although the problem your having could possibly melt the cat if its driven this way. Your sucking air somewhere on bank 1. That is now almost certain. I don't suppose you live anywhere near KC MO. do you?

My bad, just noticed the Minnesota is your location. I sometimes make house calls but that's a bit far. I'd love to help your further but you don't seem to have much patience for diagnostics. This is the only way your going to get to the root of your problem. Otherwise, take it to a shop and pay the diag fee. At this point, that would have been cheaper.

Yamae

Sorry to hear that people's advices and your efforts were not quite effective to clear the problems.

All those codes are related only to the bank 1.
If a MAF is related, you should have codes related to the bank 2 too.

This is just my experience but those lean conditions and misfires are related to 2 major reasons.
One is the air flow to come in and the other is to going out.

I'd check the vacuum leak of the bank 1 intake side and the clogging of the exhaust line of the bank 1 side. An aged catalytic converter often generates those your codes, I must add.

DK Audio

Thanks for the replies, I'm worried I may have to bring it in at this point. I don't know how dropping the cats would be possible with the car on ramps, those bolts look rusted to hell. I have looked for a vacuum leak but am not finding one. I do hear a sucking sound near the throttle body but I think that may just be the normal intake air, plus, that would effect both banks. Anyone have any tips for finding leaks and where to commonly look?

djamps

DIY smoke test

djamps

If u don't wanna smoke you can make a smoke pump too

DK Audio

Thanks, I smoke cigars actually

One thing I don't know is where I would connect a hose to blow smoke in. I do hear a hissing around the throttle body but I removed the entire throttle body when I cleaned it and saw nothing.