LS400 1995 shaking, loss power, smoke
#1
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Hello,
I have bought a LS400 well serviced 2 years ago. Now for a couple months the car is really messed up. I took it to a repair shop and they wanted to change 4 injectors, 2 oxygen sensors, the MAF sensor and the ECU for $3200... I bought the car $3000!
I have done some research and found that it could just be the ECU (they wanted to charge me $740 just for the part...not even talking about the labor...)
I have found this one that match my ECU numbers (I removed the glove box and accessed it this morning)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-97-LEXUS-lS400-V8-4-0L-1UZ-FE-ENGINE-CONTROL-ECU-ECM-Computer-89661-50220-/301812535636?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
Would this would be a good fit?
Thanks for your help!!
I have bought a LS400 well serviced 2 years ago. Now for a couple months the car is really messed up. I took it to a repair shop and they wanted to change 4 injectors, 2 oxygen sensors, the MAF sensor and the ECU for $3200... I bought the car $3000!
I have done some research and found that it could just be the ECU (they wanted to charge me $740 just for the part...not even talking about the labor...)
I have found this one that match my ECU numbers (I removed the glove box and accessed it this morning)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-97-LEXUS-lS400-V8-4-0L-1UZ-FE-ENGINE-CONTROL-ECU-ECM-Computer-89661-50220-/301812535636?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
Would this would be a good fit?
Thanks for your help!!
#2
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If it was me I would not do it.
They will not warrant it if you install it yourself, that is why I'd shy away.
If I was going to do an ecu I'd rather a local auto parts store or maybe this place. It will cost more, you get what you pay for.
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...trol_unit.html
Other option get a wrecking yard one and either try it as is or send it from an oreillys or NAPA to get it fixed.
And just remember, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before unplugging that one in your car, don't do any electrical stuff except for simple things like lights with out disconnecting the battery.
More
http://www.carparts.com/results/?N=0...94&universal=0
They will not warrant it if you install it yourself, that is why I'd shy away.
If I was going to do an ecu I'd rather a local auto parts store or maybe this place. It will cost more, you get what you pay for.
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...trol_unit.html
Other option get a wrecking yard one and either try it as is or send it from an oreillys or NAPA to get it fixed.
And just remember, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before unplugging that one in your car, don't do any electrical stuff except for simple things like lights with out disconnecting the battery.
More
http://www.carparts.com/results/?N=0...94&universal=0
Last edited by dicer; 12-24-15 at 04:44 PM.
#3
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Welcome to Club Lexus.
First part is to see if you can get any error codes read. If none can be obtained then the ECU is highly suspect. Don't attempt any fixes until you can verify proper ECU function because those parts like injectors, MAF may be fine. I would not be buying an ECU unless the capacitors have been replaced.
This is a test to check the ECU for proper function:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-by-yamae.html
First part is to see if you can get any error codes read. If none can be obtained then the ECU is highly suspect. Don't attempt any fixes until you can verify proper ECU function because those parts like injectors, MAF may be fine. I would not be buying an ECU unless the capacitors have been replaced.
This is a test to check the ECU for proper function:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-by-yamae.html
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I went to the repair shop and they wanted to change 4 injectors, the MAF sensor and the ECU for $3200!
I am almost sure that the injectors need to be changed and probably the ECU as well.
I cannot find a tutorial on how to change the fuel injector online, is there one out there? They are not really easily accessible, i am able to do the job but it would be nice to see a way to do it properly.
I am almost sure that the injectors need to be changed and probably the ECU as well.
I cannot find a tutorial on how to change the fuel injector online, is there one out there? They are not really easily accessible, i am able to do the job but it would be nice to see a way to do it properly.
#5
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I would not yet worry about injectors. They seem to last forever I think the almost 300,000 mile 90 I have has never had a thing done with injectors.
So why not tell us what is going on with the car? All you said is the shop wants to do................
Have you read any codes? How is it messing up? If your going to spend $3000 on the car get a new engine and transmission for it. Not just a few parts. At 3200 the shop is planning to get about 2200 extra to cover it if you come back complaining they didn't fix it right the first time. Oh and then they will find something else wrong that will be another 1500.
So why not tell us what is going on with the car? All you said is the shop wants to do................
Have you read any codes? How is it messing up? If your going to spend $3000 on the car get a new engine and transmission for it. Not just a few parts. At 3200 the shop is planning to get about 2200 extra to cover it if you come back complaining they didn't fix it right the first time. Oh and then they will find something else wrong that will be another 1500.
Last edited by dicer; 12-28-15 at 01:10 PM.
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I do not own a OBD2 scanner and all the shops i went to never wanted to print out the codes for me. The last thing i remember was 3 or 4 cylinder showing codes of not working properly when i went to Advanced Autopart store and they use the scanner
Basically, my car starts fine and then when i try to accelarate I have very very low power like i had only half of the engine working. the gears jump. It makes sense with the bill detail from the repair shop (4 injectors, 2 oxygen sensors Bank1 and 2 and the ECU and also the intake plenum gasket) - they also wanted to change the MAF sensor.
I have a lot of shaking at idle (red lights). Now i also have a lot of white smoke coming from the exaust. It could be a head gasket or not...
Also, the car is now stalling after the engine struggles... I took my car this morning around the block and it stalled and could not start again... not even cranking. I waited 10 minutes on the side of the road and started the car again and it cranked and ran again (very poorly) I parked the car i will not attempt to drive it again.
I have TRAC OFF always blinking, engine like is always ON and when engine is really struggling it is BLINKING.
I love this car from 95 because it's like a very comfortable tank and it only has 144,000 Miles on it!
Basically, my car starts fine and then when i try to accelarate I have very very low power like i had only half of the engine working. the gears jump. It makes sense with the bill detail from the repair shop (4 injectors, 2 oxygen sensors Bank1 and 2 and the ECU and also the intake plenum gasket) - they also wanted to change the MAF sensor.
I have a lot of shaking at idle (red lights). Now i also have a lot of white smoke coming from the exaust. It could be a head gasket or not...
Also, the car is now stalling after the engine struggles... I took my car this morning around the block and it stalled and could not start again... not even cranking. I waited 10 minutes on the side of the road and started the car again and it cranked and ran again (very poorly) I parked the car i will not attempt to drive it again.
I have TRAC OFF always blinking, engine like is always ON and when engine is really struggling it is BLINKING.
I love this car from 95 because it's like a very comfortable tank and it only has 144,000 Miles on it!
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Compare your problems with "SYMPTOMS:" written here. Capacitors can be checked quickly measuring the ripple level as was introduced by RA40.
If the ripple level is high enough, I would quickly replace those ECU capacitors. For those capacitors that containing QAS, 2 decades are long enough to fail in most of cases. When capacitors are badly failed, you even can't read the diagnostic codes at all due to the malfunction of the ECU.
If the ripple level is high enough, I would quickly replace those ECU capacitors. For those capacitors that containing QAS, 2 decades are long enough to fail in most of cases. When capacitors are badly failed, you even can't read the diagnostic codes at all due to the malfunction of the ECU.
#9
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A simple code reader is cheap. You could do the igniter test, and that will tell you if the ignitor is okay and if the coil and connections are okay. There is 2 of each. If it passes that test, then suspect a cam position sensor. Or one of the distributors, like bad cap or rotor. And the ECU could be the problem too. Do the igniter tests first.
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21 years old is old enough to be failed for those QAS capacitors, you see. The ECU you ordered must be aged as close to yours and you'd better to check those capacitors not only by your eyes but also by the ESR meter or an equivalent method.
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Yamae: Thanks, yes you are right - i might have done a mistake by buying it but i will check them and send it back if there is a problem with the capacitors (which is very likely to happen)
Then, i will need to buy the right capacitors described on the thread from LScowboyLS
Thanks again!
Then, i will need to buy the right capacitors described on the thread from LScowboyLS
Thanks again!
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So... I cleaned the leaks from the capacitors on the circuit borad and put back the ECU in the car to see... and the car runs like a charm again!!! I am very surprised and happy at the same time
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