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And I am willing to bet that neither does quality. If there is one thing Chinese are really good at. it is making a good sample or initial production run, only to slip back as soon as the customer leaves the room. At the risk of sounding racist, even though I'm not, show me one Chinese bearing company that makes bearings that are as good as Japanese (e.g. Koyo) or Swedish (SKF). Or a rubber part from China that is as good as its Japanese counterpart. Or a suspension part made in China that can compete with 555 Moog.
Sorry for the ramble, but I had to let it out, after I discovered that my Chinese made rubber hose on the air intake fell apart after only two years (you could literally just poke a hole in it with your finger!), while a 10 year old OEM replacement that I bought off E-bay (for ten bucks) is still flexible and performs like a champ.
Unfortunately often reported.
We did it to ourselves by buying into it.
Whatever anyone thinks of our President, it appears certain trade practices are now on the radar.
Japan at least demonstrated to U.S. Automakers how to produce something better.
Am challenged to understand what China has contributed...to anything.
Here is a little bedtime story that illustrates the level of quality from Japanese makers of high precision parts:
After the WWII, the Japanese government decided to inspect EVERY shipment of electronic devices, including photo cameras that leave the country. The reason was smart: catch quality control issues BEFORE anyone abroad receives a product of inferior quality.
That's why, when you bought a camera, or a microscope or similar, there was a little oval golden sticker on it, like this one:
It meant that few randomly selected pieces of that equipment were selected for thorough inspection and they passed with flying colors. The Japanese Camera and Instruments Inspection has been doing that in order to help the economy - they knew they could only win foreign markets if their stuff was better. And it was.
Since the WWII, they have inspected every single batch of cameras and lenses and related equipment and up until some times in the 90's guess how many they had to send back?
Zero. Not one. (although, having a bit of insider info about this, I know that there were few, extremely rare lenses that made their way through even though they had a focus error which proved to be an advantage and you cannot buy those anywhere - whoever has them will not sell for any money).
So, after some 50 years of checking their cameras and equipment, JCII stopped doing it. It was proven to be unnecessary (again, since I have some insider info, I am beginning to think they should maybe re-instate it).
That's the level of quality we have learned to expect from made in Japan, and for a good reason. Now, we have to play lottery even with OEM parts.
5013 radiator calipers at 1" 5015 radiator calipers at 1" 5013 left 5015 right 5013 left 5015 right
Hydrofan and radiator installed No issue with radiator hold down bracket fitment No issue with radiator hold down bracket fitment Hydrofan pump fitted in place of stock fan bracket Hydrofan and shroud installed from Celsior Hydrofan hydraulic fluid cooler
Likely the tow package fan clutch engages at a lower temperature and/or has a higher % engagement at full engagement when compared to the non tow package. in other words fan would be closer to 1:1 drive ratio at full lockup than the regular clutch.
Some more pictures of the radiator side by side with my old one. No difference in the fin density.
Also some pictures of my hydro-fan conversion. I am going to be installing a PWM controller to control the solenoid. Tested the system and with the fan fully engaged the fan moves a lot of air, even at idle. The reason for this upgrade was due to my remote start installation. I want maximum idle fan cooling immediately after startup to get the AC head pressure down and speed up the AC pump down time. With the mechanical fan there is a delay between engine start up and fan engagement which in turn delays the AC pump down time. I really like having the precise control of the hydro fan. It sure was hard to find all the parts I needed though.
Just a comment on the volume. This isnt a great measurement, but I drained all my radiator fluid into a container to be reused. After refilling the system with the 5015 radiator, I had to add back about a half gallon of coolant to get the level back where it was. There was of a course a few spills during all the work I did but I would say the 5015 has close to a half gallon extra capacity.
The hydro fan opening in fan shroud appears to be centered while US fan clutch is off center.
Will.the US version ram air box (rests across top of radiator) fit or is it necessary to obtain a different unit?
Mentioned in another post I was engaged as a Sales Representative for Papst (now EBM-Papst) fans.
The Toyota Celsior Hydro fan, while more expensive, is far superior to the LS400 fan clutch configuration from an airflow perspective.
Here's why;
1.) The Celsior fan is centered in the fan shroud to the radiator and the engine compartment, so cooling is more uniform
The LS400 fan clutch is bolted to an off-center fan clutch bracket (which on the Celsior is the cooling fan hydro pump...)
2.) The Celsior employs a larger diameter fan blade assembly resides entirely within the confines of the venturi and blade tips are within a half inch of the of the fan shroud venturi.
The LS400 clutch mounted blades reside almost entirely outside of the fan shroud and there is at least 2" + of gap.
3.) A 2"+ gap coupled with the fan residing outside the venturi (perhaps necessary to prevent an engine mounted fan from hitting a fixed shroud), significantly reduces airflow. The fan may not actually be drawing much air through the radiator while stopped at idle. This affects A.C. system efficiency....and causes the electric fan to turn on.
The clutch driven LS400 fan is attempting to draw air through the radiator in a sucking motion...without benefit of full venturi interface... Drawing airflow in a vacuum is much more difficult than pushing, akin to sucking out a match, (try doing so at even 1"..with no booze on your breath) which explains why LS400 requires a auxiliary pushing electic fan, while Celsior does not.
4.) Finally,.neither the auxiliary electric fan nor the radiator fan incorporates a venturi ring on blade perimeter of the fan blades... Celsior or LS400
A venturi ring (at blade tips) increases airflow efficiency and reduces noise of the fan assembly.
A few supporting images: Top view taken of fan blades and clutch assembly in relation to fan shroud.... A 3/4" -1" spacer between the fan clutch and fan bracket bearing would at least place the fan within the shroud..not sure what would happen in that scenario if broken motor mount(s). Considerable gap between the fan blade and shroud..perhaps 2-1/2 - 3 inches. Mostly what this is doing at idle is churning air. In fact air may be flowing in reverse from engine side back around blades. This is an image taken of auxiliary cooling fan in a Mercedes-Benz (EBM-Papst is a Mercedes vendor). Notice the perimter venturi ring integrated into fan blade assembly...and barely discernible gap between the outer fan blade ring and housing.. More airflow, less power consumption and a lot less noise.
Does the tow package radiator reduce coolant pressure drop
It is resolved the tow package radiator is thicker than the standard radiator.
Hypothesize the increased internal passage area of 5015 tow package radiator would reduce pressure drop and require less engine power to push engine coolant than with thinner, more constrained 5013 radiator.
Do not have pressure drop data for either radiator, but logically the water pump does not work as hard pushing coolant through wider radiator internals.
Forgot to answer your question about the air duct above the radiator. I used the same one without any fitment issues.
Originally Posted by YODAONE
It is resolved the tow package radiator is thicker than the standard radiator.
Hypothesize the increased internal passage area of 5015 tow package radiator would reduce pressure drop and require less engine power to push engine coolant than with thinner, more constrained 5013 radiator.
Do not have pressure drop data for either radiator, but logically the water pump does not work as hard pushing coolant through wider radiator internals.
Increasing flow increases coolant pump power draw, so if you have more coolant flow through the larger radiator you would be increasing your power consumption not decreasing it.The only time this would happen is when you exceed the thermostat temperature/thermostat is wide open though since any other time the thermostat is what controls the flow rate.
Since the larger radiator is more effective at releasing heat, the thermostat would need to open less on average which means your coolant flow rate through the system would on average be less than before. Since coolant pump power is proportional to flow rate your power consumption of the pump would go down, but that's because of greater cooling effectiveness not because of less flow restriction. Higher efficiency radiator = less flow needed for the same amount of cooling = less power consumed by pump. The change in MPG or acceleration power is going to be negligible though so I don't even see the value in looking at the effect this has on power consumption.
Forgot to answer your question about the air duct above the radiator. I used the same one without any fitment issues.
Increasing flow increases coolant pump power draw, so if you have more coolant flow through the larger radiator you would be increasing your power consumption not decreasing it.The only time this would happen is when you exceed the thermostat temperature/thermostat is wide open though since any other time the thermostat is what controls the flow rate.
Since the larger radiator is more effective at releasing heat, the thermostat would need to open less on average which means your coolant flow rate through the system would on average be less than before. Since coolant pump power is proportional to flow rate your power consumption of the pump would go down, but that's because of greater cooling effectiveness not because of less flow restriction. Higher efficiency radiator = less flow needed for the same amount of cooling = less power consumed by pump. The change in MPG or acceleration power is going to be negligible though so I don't even see the value in looking at the effect this has on power consumption.
Thanks for the excellent analysis. Your grasp of the engineering principles involved is clearly well beyond that shown by the professional cooling tuner company's post linked above.
Thanks for the excellent analysis. Your grasp of the engineering principles involved is clearly well beyond that shown by the professional cooling tuner company's post linked above.
Well I read through the Stewart article and there is nothing wrong about anything they said. You just have to keep in mind that the coolant pump is a centrifugal style pump and doesn't operate in the same way as a positive displacement pump.
With a positive displacement pump like a power steering pump, as you restrict the outlet the pump has to maintain the same amount of flow and thus builds pressure to "work against" the blockage which takes more power to do. But with a centrifugal pump as you restrict the outlet the pump just moves less fluid and in doing so takes less energy to move it. That's why when the thermostat closes you aren't working the pump harder it actually works harder the more the thermostat opens (ignoring the bypass function which keeps coolant circulating in the block).
When you cover the opening on your vacuum with your hand the motor speeds up and the power consumption goes down because the centrifugal fan is basically freewheeling.
When I did the timing belt on my 1995 LS400 I was amazed that the rubber stuff like coolant hoses etc felt good strong crack free and flexible still after over 20 years.
That is really impressing. Now 24 years old now and stil ok. I changed lower ball joints in front. The old ones felt like new but failed spindle ball joints can be sudden so... Also the 23 years old spark plug wires seemed ok but I chickened out and exchanged them for new DENSO parts.
06-16-19, 08:16 PM
IDK but I'm happy I can go to a buffet for $5.99 and be filled up when I leave. 
