LS400 Manual Swap Which Trans?
#1
LS400 Manual Swap Which Trans?
So I've been looking into doing the manual swap for a while now and doing a bunch of research but I'm torn as to the pros and cons with both the setups (w58 and Ka24 trans). They look to be pretty comparable as far as pricing is concerned, yeah the w58 is a more expensive trans generally. But lets be honest the real expense here with swapping is all the custom **** that has to be made, driveshaft, clutch pedal, shifter, etc.
I'm already kind of leaning to the collins swap because of the fact that you can use the 350z 6spd trans with it as well just in case the Ka trans poops out which it will eventually. The other reason I like it is it utilizes the external clutch slave vs the internal throwout type, that can cause a huge headache down the line. Overall the parts with the ka trans swap seem easier to source since most of it comes from a 240sx.
So I'm really just looking for some info and advice from people that have done these swaps on a few things.
- Ka seems to be a little easier to do than the w58, is this true?
- How well does the shifter location match up to the factory hole with the w58?
- Is the w58 trans really that much stronger than the ka trans?
- Which pedal assembly is the best to use on the LS400? SC, s14, s13?
- Has anyone contemplated or actually done a reverse mount clutch master (inside the cabin)?
- Which clutch and flywheel did you use for the w58 swap? Was there any modification necessary?
I'm already kind of leaning to the collins swap because of the fact that you can use the 350z 6spd trans with it as well just in case the Ka trans poops out which it will eventually. The other reason I like it is it utilizes the external clutch slave vs the internal throwout type, that can cause a huge headache down the line. Overall the parts with the ka trans swap seem easier to source since most of it comes from a 240sx.
So I'm really just looking for some info and advice from people that have done these swaps on a few things.
- Ka seems to be a little easier to do than the w58, is this true?
- How well does the shifter location match up to the factory hole with the w58?
- Is the w58 trans really that much stronger than the ka trans?
- Which pedal assembly is the best to use on the LS400? SC, s14, s13?
- Has anyone contemplated or actually done a reverse mount clutch master (inside the cabin)?
- Which clutch and flywheel did you use for the w58 swap? Was there any modification necessary?
#2
The majority of your questions can be answered through searching through several old threads.
All pedal assemblies require custom fab, as do the trans mounts. A reverse mount clutch has been done, search for cashflo's LS.
W58 and KA trans both suffer from not being able to take large amounts of power. Adapter plate is the same for KA/CD trans but there are flywheel/cluch differences if i remember correctly.
www.toyotav8.com is a reputable source for adapter/fw parts for the 1UZ.
Good luck.
All pedal assemblies require custom fab, as do the trans mounts. A reverse mount clutch has been done, search for cashflo's LS.
W58 and KA trans both suffer from not being able to take large amounts of power. Adapter plate is the same for KA/CD trans but there are flywheel/cluch differences if i remember correctly.
www.toyotav8.com is a reputable source for adapter/fw parts for the 1UZ.
Good luck.
#3
I would think the mechanical part is the easy stuff. I'd like to know how you would trick the ecu, because its only for an automatic. Maybe an after market controller, but then a lot of other functionality is lost.
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Alexb7890 (11-04-20)
#4
The majority of your questions can be answered through searching through several old threads.
All pedal assemblies require custom fab, as do the trans mounts. A reverse mount clutch has been done, search for cashflo's LS.
W58 and KA trans both suffer from not being able to take large amounts of power. Adapter plate is the same for KA/CD trans but there are flywheel/cluch differences if i remember correctly.
www.toyotav8.com is a reputable source for adapter/fw parts for the 1UZ.
Good luck.
All pedal assemblies require custom fab, as do the trans mounts. A reverse mount clutch has been done, search for cashflo's LS.
W58 and KA trans both suffer from not being able to take large amounts of power. Adapter plate is the same for KA/CD trans but there are flywheel/cluch differences if i remember correctly.
www.toyotav8.com is a reputable source for adapter/fw parts for the 1UZ.
Good luck.
I figured the clutch pedal would require some modification and fabrication of some sort of bracket. But rather what one seems to be the best to use.
All of this is qualitative info from people that have done the swaps in that I'm looking for info on their experience and whether or not they would do it the same or use different routes.
#5
But for the most part I have already done the research on the parts and how much work is involved and am just torn and looking for advice on which one to do.
As far as power I'm most likely going to keep it somewhat stock power so either trans will be able to hold it
As far as power I'm most likely going to keep it somewhat stock power so either trans will be able to hold it
#6
#7
Youve basically done the hard part. Once you've bought the stuff, then it's just trial and error unfortunately. Like you said, it's not widely documented in detail... You could be the first though haha I too am curious about this and am gonna end up just winging it.
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#8
Honestly at the end of all the research and info I'm leaning more towards selling the car and getting something more driftable to start with. As much as I've always wanted a manual LS400 Its looking like the cost of doing it will be extremely high for a car that may or may not be all that fun to slide
#9
Honestly at the end of all the research and info I'm leaning more towards selling the car and getting something more driftable to start with. As much as I've always wanted a manual LS400 Its looking like the cost of doing it will be extremely high for a car that may or may not be all that fun to slide
i got the frist one off craigslist for only $500 and second one cost $650 with an upgraded clutch. adapter plates were $300 a piece.
I think you wont find a lot of info here because most people just buy the parts and take it to someone who knows what they are doing. i have several local drift garages shops to do my trans work for me so i couldnt post you a step by step but i could send you a full part list if needed.
quick info
full 6speed swap into a ucf10 cost me $1500
full 6speed swap on my ucf20 cost me $2000
i also have a close friend with the same swap and his ls only cost $500 with a salvage title
it is now a full drift car for under $4000 that out drifts any local 240sx or bmw that cost more and the lexus is way more reliable.
with solid bushings coilovers a standalone ems intake exhaust welded rear differntial hydro e brake and stripped out interior/sunroof delete my ucf20 drifts great and is very easy to learn with and impossible to break.
my ucf10 is turbo with pretty much the same setup but is a pain to drift if you dont know what you are doing. i am currently swapping in a 500hp 1jzgte
also
ive had rx7 sc300/400 y33 240sx miata supra bmw and volvo drift cars.
i personally love drifting my ls's and wouldnt be interested in drfiting any other car unless it was a 1jz cressida. ls400's are cheap as dirt , bulletproof solid easy to work on and never overheat or burn oil even in 100+ heat.
mine has never broke in 5 seasons of drifting it with basic maintenance and 300+ hp
BTW
the stock car is pretty fun to drift with just a stripped interior welded diff and hydro e brake
id say do that and learn to donut around a cone and do figure eight drifts with 2 cones to see if you even like the car before spending money. drifting has a lot to do with driver/car feel and not one setup will work for everyone thats why we all use different cars. using an ls you will get tons of practice time and not always be fixing broken stuff like on other cheap drift cars.
good luck if you want a full part list or anything pm me
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2CupJ (02-16-22)
#10
a parts list would be useful. I have a hard time believing you did a CD009 swap for $1500 for all the parts without labor. The trans and a decent clutch kit is nearing a grand alone.
If you could post it up that would probably be best.
If you could post it up that would probably be best.
#13
another option not mentioned is a tremec 6 speed. Should be super common for you guys in the states. You can buy adaptor plates quite cheaply. Flywheels and clutch kits are also available threw NPC (Australia). These boxs also use a 3prong driftshaft as standard, so the lexus item could be very cheaply shortened to suit.
im doing the conversion to my 2jz cressida.
im doing the conversion to my 2jz cressida.
#14
another option not mentioned is a tremec 6 speed. Should be super common for you guys in the states. You can buy adaptor plates quite cheaply. Flywheels and clutch kits are also available threw NPC (Australia). These boxs also use a 3prong driftshaft as standard, so the lexus item could be very cheaply shortened to suit.
im doing the conversion to my 2jz cressida.
im doing the conversion to my 2jz cressida.
#15
hey, i used the 350z transmission with collins adapter in both my manual swapped ls's.
i got the frist one off craigslist for only $500 and second one cost $650 with an upgraded clutch. adapter plates were $300 a piece.
I think you wont find a lot of info here because most people just buy the parts and take it to someone who knows what they are doing. i have several local drift garages shops to do my trans work for me so i couldnt post you a step by step but i could send you a full part list if needed.
quick info
full 6speed swap into a ucf10 cost me $1500
full 6speed swap on my ucf20 cost me $2000
i also have a close friend with the same swap and his ls only cost $500 with a salvage title
it is now a full drift car for under $4000 that out drifts any local 240sx or bmw that cost more and the lexus is way more reliable.
with solid bushings coilovers a standalone ems intake exhaust welded rear differntial hydro e brake and stripped out interior/sunroof delete my ucf20 drifts great and is very easy to learn with and impossible to break.
my ucf10 is turbo with pretty much the same setup but is a pain to drift if you dont know what you are doing. i am currently swapping in a 500hp 1jzgte
also
ive had rx7 sc300/400 y33 240sx miata supra bmw and volvo drift cars.
i personally love drifting my ls's and wouldnt be interested in drfiting any other car unless it was a 1jz cressida. ls400's are cheap as dirt , bulletproof solid easy to work on and never overheat or burn oil even in 100+ heat.
mine has never broke in 5 seasons of drifting it with basic maintenance and 300+ hp
BTW
the stock car is pretty fun to drift with just a stripped interior welded diff and hydro e brake
id say do that and learn to donut around a cone and do figure eight drifts with 2 cones to see if you even like the car before spending money. drifting has a lot to do with driver/car feel and not one setup will work for everyone thats why we all use different cars. using an ls you will get tons of practice time and not always be fixing broken stuff like on other cheap drift cars.
good luck if you want a full part list or anything pm me
i got the frist one off craigslist for only $500 and second one cost $650 with an upgraded clutch. adapter plates were $300 a piece.
I think you wont find a lot of info here because most people just buy the parts and take it to someone who knows what they are doing. i have several local drift garages shops to do my trans work for me so i couldnt post you a step by step but i could send you a full part list if needed.
quick info
full 6speed swap into a ucf10 cost me $1500
full 6speed swap on my ucf20 cost me $2000
i also have a close friend with the same swap and his ls only cost $500 with a salvage title
it is now a full drift car for under $4000 that out drifts any local 240sx or bmw that cost more and the lexus is way more reliable.
with solid bushings coilovers a standalone ems intake exhaust welded rear differntial hydro e brake and stripped out interior/sunroof delete my ucf20 drifts great and is very easy to learn with and impossible to break.
my ucf10 is turbo with pretty much the same setup but is a pain to drift if you dont know what you are doing. i am currently swapping in a 500hp 1jzgte
also
ive had rx7 sc300/400 y33 240sx miata supra bmw and volvo drift cars.
i personally love drifting my ls's and wouldnt be interested in drfiting any other car unless it was a 1jz cressida. ls400's are cheap as dirt , bulletproof solid easy to work on and never overheat or burn oil even in 100+ heat.
mine has never broke in 5 seasons of drifting it with basic maintenance and 300+ hp
BTW
the stock car is pretty fun to drift with just a stripped interior welded diff and hydro e brake
id say do that and learn to donut around a cone and do figure eight drifts with 2 cones to see if you even like the car before spending money. drifting has a lot to do with driver/car feel and not one setup will work for everyone thats why we all use different cars. using an ls you will get tons of practice time and not always be fixing broken stuff like on other cheap drift cars.
good luck if you want a full part list or anything pm me