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i have a question, does this mean the camber is off by + xx rather than running - xx? meaning the tires are pushed in from the bottom? like this \ / ?? coz im in need of arms too for the rear since my stock eccentric bolts are now busted and id like to know if these godspeed can give me -2 camber at the back.
\ / is positive camber looking from front or rear at the tires. / \ is negative camber. If you want more negative camber you need longer lower control arms. And that is where the camber adjustment eccentric is located for stock applications.
Really very sorry to bring back an old thread... but I have a question about how to secure the control arm to the subframe...
It appears that the Godspeed control arms do not include any hardware. How are you supposed to the arm attach to the slot in the subframe? I had to cut my camber bolt when removing my old control arm, and right now I just have a regular grade 8 bolt holding the control arm on (just temporary so I can have my car on four wheels).
Are you supposed to use the OEM camber bolt? Then adjust camber accordingly with the threaded rod? Really don't want to buy the $30 bolt for this lol.
i literally just ran into the same problem. Check the date on the receipt lol. I got febest bolts for my 95. The part number for ucf20 is 0129-001 and if you order them from the sears website (weird ik) they are $7 a piece from people called "Finest Auto Parts".
They also sell on fleabay but they're $11 a piece there.
The eccentric bolt is required for any arms back there. I dont suggest driving on incorrect bolts. I am installing these cranked to the least amount of camber because I want less camber.
i literally just ran into the same problem. Check the date on the receipt lol. I got febest bolts for my 95. The part number for ucf20 is 0129-001 and if you order them from the sears website (weird ik) they are $7 a piece from people called "Finest Auto Parts".
They also sell on fleabay but they're $11 a piece there.
The eccentric bolt is required for any arms back there. I dont suggest driving on incorrect bolts. I am installing these cranked to the least amount of camber because I want less camber.
Awesome, thanks for the reply. Do they include the eccentric "washer" for the nut side too?
the bolt seizes solid to the factory arm. you cannot remove the arm without cutting the bolt.
The washer on the other side is a seperate part. Febest sells it too. It will come right off even if your car is rusty. My car has been in IL and driven for every 20 winters and the washer came right off.
the bolt seizes solid to the factory arm. you cannot remove the arm without cutting the bolt.
The washer on the other side is a seperate part. Febest sells it too. It will come right off even if your car is rusty. My car has been in IL and driven for every 20 winters and the washer came right off.
I was actually able to free the bolt up, but unfortunately the lock washer snapped in half. It got wedged between the bolt head and the slot of the subframe, so cutting it was the only option.
I threw my washer part out, I assumed it would be sold together. But I was wrong haha.. Do you know what the bolt specs are so I can grab a lock nut somewhere?
i literally just ran into the same problem. Check the date on the receipt lol. I got febest bolts for my 95. The part number for ucf20 is 0129-001 and if you order them from the sears website (weird ik) they are $7 a piece from people called "Finest Auto Parts".
They also sell on fleabay but they're $11 a piece there.
The eccentric bolt is required for any arms back there. I dont suggest driving on incorrect bolts. I am installing these cranked to the least amount of camber because I want less camber.
09-08-16, 05:31 PM
