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The seals and grommets were all rock hard , took all of 10 minutes and $16 to rebuild them. This is the least of any concern when changing the starter.
Have you ever heard of anyone complaining about how expensive or difficult it was to rebuild injector seals and grommets?
Odd how that is the focus of your post....Yet you recommend bending the EGR pipe which is known to be very brittle.
Just pointing out you don't have to take off the fuel rail. For me, the less you have to disassemble, the better. I had the intakes off 4 times this past summer and never took off the fuel rail. And to be clear, I don't recommend bending the upper egr pipe- just said I had to at some point for the intake to go back in. It is a tight fit.
Just pointing out you don't have to take off the fuel rail. For me, the less you have to disassemble, the better. I had the intakes off 4 times this past summer and never took off the fuel rail. And to be clear, I don't recommend bending the upper egr pipe- just said I had to at some point for the intake to go back in. It is a tight fit.
gotcha,
taking off the intake 4 times and replacing the starter are very different jobs
like describing how you change the oil in your car to someone who is trying to replace their crankshaft
i have never heard of someone replacing the starter without removing the EGR piping. so why bend it if you have to unbolt and remove it?
anyway
this thread has got me wondering if it is possible to remove the rear coolant bridge with the lower EGR pipe still connected? if so that would be a huge time saver.
OP I would remove the coolant piping above the coolant bridge to give yourself move room to work
the lower EGR pipe nuts that connects to the back of the bridge are going to be your nemesis
OK i am stuck here still. I had a guy come to remove the starter, he tried but then told me he cant do it because apparently there is a chipped out bolt - See following picture with red circle.
My question is: Is this a bolt? Is it chipped out? and was it the last bolt to be removed to remove that metal piece to finally get the the starter 2 final bolts OR he did not know how to do it?
Thanks!
Last edited by arnaudfabs; 06-08-16 at 08:59 AM.
Reason: better picture
OK i am stuck here still. I had a guy come to remove the starter, he tried but then told me he cant do it because apparently there is a chipped out bolt - See following picture with red circle.
My question is: Is this a bolt? Is it chipped out? and was it the last bolt to be removed to remove that metal piece to finally get the the starter 2 final bolts OR he did not know how to do it?
Thanks!
Your helper is clueless.
The coolant bridge is connected to the lower EGR from the REAR. If it were accessed from the front why would we all be telling you it is very difficult. ......
Yes that is the end of a bolt. Not a head that has been chipped out.
The first time I looked it was a huge blank box. It is there now. Maybe the band width of the site was being hogged up or something at the time.
And to the starter, you could probably leave the coolant crossover manifold in, if you get the car up high enough and then remove the rear mount and possibly have to deal with the drive shaft too, as well as exhaust etc. then you lower the transmission and rear of engine down enough to gain access to the 2 very nasty starter mounting bolts. Anyone that says they can just zip through the job is telling stories. If I remember that unless you are a 2 year old you can't even get your fingers on the bolts to turn them. So if someone does brag about how rapid they are at getting that starter out, they have hands the size of a 2 year old.
On the 90 that I did about 5 years ago, I could not get that manifold out of the way I could slide it up a bit and put a block under it to hold it up, the wire harness would not allow it to go up. I can't wait till I get to do one again.......... next time I will deal with the wire harness, or just take the engine out and deal with anyother thing that can leak, and clean things up like new.
The coolant bridge is connected to the lower EGR from the REAR. If it were accessed from the front why would we all be telling you it is very difficult. ......
Yes that is the end of a bolt. Not a head that has been chipped out.
Indeed he was clueless... thanks!
Second helper who fails me. I don't get it, i will really have to complete the job by myself and i am not a mechanic but i started to get into it with this car.
Second helper who fails me. I don't get it, i will really have to complete the job by myself and i am not a mechanic but i started to get into it with this car.
You are going to need to get that wiring harness out of the way, then pull the coolant bridge, before you will be able to get to the two back bolts out of the starter.
[QUOTE=brybo86;9505931]gotcha,
this thread has got me wondering if it is possible to remove the rear coolant bridge with the lower EGR pipe still connected? if so that would be a huge time saver.
(that's what I did. You just take out the two bolts where the egr pipe goes into exhaust. When you lift up on the coolant bridge, you can get it up the few inches you need to get to the back two bolts on the back of the coolant bridge. But, for me to do this I had to remove the plastic channel of the wiring bundle, and I think that is one of the worst parts of doing this job. Really time consuming.)
06-02-16, 06:21 AM
