A question about alternator
#1
A question about alternator
90 LS400, my Reillys rebuild ps pump blew the upper plug and snap ring up and of course dumped the fluid. So I'm wondering if anyone has ever run the engine in an LS with the alternator out, I need to move it after taking things off. Just wondering if any of the electronics is going to not like that. And yeah tape the wires etc. Thanks.
#5
it'll just run off the battery and not charge it. I wouldn't drive it more than a couple blocks and limit the electrical usage on it. Turn off all accessories and you should be able to run it a couple of minutes no problem.
#6
When my alternator went bad on my last road trip, I ran 50 miles to the next town on a new battery I bought. My bad alternator wasn't putting out anything, so wouldn't be much different. Have to watch cooling however.
#7
90 LS400, my Reillys rebuild ps pump blew the upper plug and snap ring up and of course dumped the fluid. So I'm wondering if anyone has ever run the engine in an LS with the alternator out, I need to move it after taking things off. Just wondering if any of the electronics is going to not like that. And yeah tape the wires etc. Thanks.
Failure of a power steering pump is a major safety issue.
If this forum cannot address safety risks of using random replacement parts from questionable sources , then what's the point??
Safety is worth it.
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#8
I was concerned about any electronics connected to the top plug, I'll have to study it a bit. But yeah I know it will go ok with no belt been there done that. I just know how fussy some electronics can be when they don't have a resistance and have to dissipate power with in themselves, but if designed correctly they should compensate for the loss.
I've had good luck with most non oem parts, I don't know what happened why they didn't get the snap ring seated right or maybe the casting was broke there I don't know yet. The mess it made is a huge pain, and the cost to tow it too. I first thought it was a high pressure line, it popped when I turned to park and bumped the stop. And gee when I originally installed it I was going stop to stop to bleed it. The fixed idle air valve is holding good. Anyone know what a reman at lexus would cost?
I've had good luck with most non oem parts, I don't know what happened why they didn't get the snap ring seated right or maybe the casting was broke there I don't know yet. The mess it made is a huge pain, and the cost to tow it too. I first thought it was a high pressure line, it popped when I turned to park and bumped the stop. And gee when I originally installed it I was going stop to stop to bleed it. The fixed idle air valve is holding good. Anyone know what a reman at lexus would cost?
#9
I was concerned about any electronics connected to the top plug, I'll have to study it a bit. But yeah I know it will go ok with no belt been there done that. I just know how fussy some electronics can be when they don't have a resistance and have to dissipate power with in themselves, but if designed correctly they should compensate for the loss.
I've had good luck with most non oem parts, I don't know what happened why they didn't get the snap ring seated right or maybe the casting was broke there I don't know yet. The mess it made is a huge pain, and the cost to tow it too. I first thought it was a high pressure line, it popped when I turned to park and bumped the stop. And gee when I originally installed it I was going stop to stop to bleed it. The fixed idle air valve is holding good. Anyone know what a reman at lexus would cost?
I've had good luck with most non oem parts, I don't know what happened why they didn't get the snap ring seated right or maybe the casting was broke there I don't know yet. The mess it made is a huge pain, and the cost to tow it too. I first thought it was a high pressure line, it popped when I turned to park and bumped the stop. And gee when I originally installed it I was going stop to stop to bleed it. The fixed idle air valve is holding good. Anyone know what a reman at lexus would cost?
#10
I think most stuff is rebuild in Mexico and I would bet even the more costly ones from Lexus too. Things are just way different now for car parts you may think your getting some top quality deal, but in the end it could be that both the non oem and the oem come from the same place.
#12
I think most stuff is rebuild in Mexico and I would bet even the more costly ones from Lexus too. Things are just way different now for car parts you may think your getting some top quality deal, but in the end it could be that both the non oem and the oem come from the same place.
A form certifying what parts were replaced and rebuult, relevant before/after tolerances/dimensions on wear components provided and affirmarively whether OEM including parts (and P.N.'s) used..
Otherwise, buy new, or have your existing part rebuilt using OEM parts..
This will actually save money., promote safety and provide peace of mind.
Otherwise continue to buy rebuilt P.S. pumps, steering racks, alternators and non OEM waterpumps, starters, wheel bearings, radiators, Hoses, Oxygen sensors, engine sensors, gaskets, seals, bearings, brake parts, etc. from the O'Reillys and AutoZones of the world to insure you have something to complain about
Rarely, if ever, has anyone told me they acquired a better aftermarket part than Toyota /Lexus...save for spark plugs or tires.
Last edited by YODAONE; 09-01-16 at 06:34 AM.
#13
Lesson learned on buying from the auto parts rebuilt stock. Short term "fix" or those dumping the car off seem to be the usual motivators. Just enough to run then the next owner has the fun in replacing these short lived components. When the alternator in ours died, the car drove about 1 mile before dying in a parking lot. It was a good battery but the deep discharge killed it. After the alternator fix and battery recharge, it lasted one month before giving up. (The battery was maybe 3 years old.) I wouldn't do more than move the car into or out of the garage. The Optimas may be pretty robust but I still wouldn't test them that way.