Uiriamu

Hey there. I've been driving for 3 years now (no accidents nor citations ) and I've been driving a 92 LS400 this whole time.
I have a great feel for the car and can tell when something is wrong, but to be honest there's a whole lot I don't know about my car or cars in general. i know how to change a tire, check the oil, etc, but I don't know all the things that should be common sense. I plan to buy a 2000 LS400 in the near future and that one I plan to take care of it from day one but for that I have to learn with my current one.
I drive 350+ Miles per week; 95% for work.
I live in sunny, smoggy LA.

The things I want to know are:

• What things to inspect every day before I drive
• What things to inspect every week
• What things to Inspect every month or so
• How often do I need to put coolant in my vehicle
• When do I flush it all out and put new coolant
• What type of coolant
• Same things for transmission oil and engine oil and not sure if it applies but power steering and brake fluid as well
• When to change oil filter
• When do I replace my brakes
• When do I replace my suspension
• When do I replace my shocks and struts

Thats all I know that are things I need to be aware of but I'm sure there's other things I'm missing which I would appreciate if y'all let me know. I plan to do an inspection checklist when I routinely check my vehicle. Also, which type of motor and transmission oil is best as well as coolant. Oh, also, I don't know if I'm over thinking it, but it's been a very long time since I had to put in motor oil in my vehicle but everytime I check the needle it says full, but when I smell it, it gives off this burnt oil smell, but the car itself is fine and whatnot.

Thanks in advance.

Losiracer2

not to be rude, but the drivers manual is a good start. I know everything you asked is in there so make sure your new LS comes with it.

djamps

+1 on the manual for fluid intervals. For me I inspect regularly for any leaks (drips on driveway, ect), oil level and tires. The rest is whenever I get around to it or notice an issue.

UNCNOR

iTrader: (1)

A brand new FREE owners manual is available directly from Lexus.Visit lexus.com/owners and follow the directions.

Mcsea91

thanks for the tip only crappy thing you can't ship the manual to Canada. But the online pdf version works well. Thanks again.

Banshee365

While those who already responded have very valid points, I'll try to actually answer some of your questions. I'll bullet some items as I am reading what you bulleted:

• At the most I only visually check tire inflation daily. I can't even say that I do that. Every day I just get in and drive. But it's a good thing to try to notice any fluid leakage as you back out of your spot at home or anywhere you park really.
• I wouldn't really have certain things to inspect every week, I would check certain things at the gas station instead.
• The same goes for monthly checks. You should be keeping an eye on oil level, transmission fluid level, and coolant level the most. Those are really the most important. If you don't notice your car leaking on your parking spots it's probably not losing fluids. BUT, you should be checking your tires pressures AT LEAST every month. Set them to what the sticker on the glove box door says. And do NOT forget to check your spare. Everyone forgets about the spare then wonders why it is flat when they need it. Because it hadn't been checked in 15 years.
• What I can recommend for your gas station checks is this: Pull up to the pump, leave the car running, pop the hood, check the transmission fluid level, shut the car off, fill it with fuel, and check the engine oil and coolant. Obviously the coolant check is just visual, leave the cap alone. Also lay your eyes on the brake fluid level.
• You do not have to add coolant unless it is low.
• You can flush/change your coolant at timing belt intervals, or right now if the wrong coolant is in there. Most of us use Toyota Long Life Coolant which is red in color. The 98-00 LS400 will actually specify that. Technically the service interval is still every 30k miles with the Long Life Coolant but I think that's a little silly. I would go AT LEAST 60k between changes. Personally, in my climate, I would just do it every 90k with the timing belt. The red Toyota coolant is fairly pricey but it's the right stuff for your aluminum engine. I've worked on cars that have alway's used this coolant and they are so much cleaner than engines that use ethyl-glycol coolants in my experience.
• Use Mobil 1 5W30 oil and a Toyota oil filter. Use Toyota T-IV (Type-4) transmission fluid. Use Dexron III ATF for the power steering fluid, DO NOT use fluid bottled as power steering fluid. That's the WRONG stuff. Use DOT 3 brake fluid for the brakes.
• Oil filter is obviously changed with the engine oil every 7,500 miles.
• Replace your brakes, shocks, struts and other wear items as they are needed.
• When you purchase any used car you need to have it inspected by someone if you are not experienced. You also need to catch up all of the maintenance items if you do not have record of when they were last done. If there is no engine oil change sticker or documentation of the last one, change it and the filter when you buy the car to start fresh. If the transmission fluid isn't bright red, drain the pan and refill with roughly 2 quarts of new T-IV ATF during your oil change. Don't pay for an agitated or hot flush at some mickey mouse jiffy lube. If the fluid in the trans is old and neglected at all any of that will shock the unit and you will have problems when you didn't before. Just change the fluid a few quarts at a time spread between every other oil change or so. It's easy.
• If there is no timing belt service sticker or documentation for the last timing belt service, change it with the water pump to reset your service interval. If the timing belt is inspected and visually looks very very new then you can use your own or a professionals judgement there.
• As for the brakes, they should be inspected prior to or right after you purchase the car. This should be included in the inspection mentioned above that anyone should do anytime they purchase a used car, unless you're handy and do it yourself. The LS400 has brake wear sensors but if you get that light in the dash you must replace the sensors as they have been worn through to trigger the light. Change your brakes before the wear light comes on. I like to use OEM parts everywhere on these cars, including brake pads. They are usually $50 per axle from the discount dealer parts sites. They are made by Sumitomo.

Legender

Banshee...
Congrats and thanks on a very nice and informative post. It's forum members like you that take the time/effort to share good information that makes this forum stand out from most.
Great advice for any new driver...
Thanks.

dicer

X 2 for Banshee, How nice and thoughtful to do that, and look how much nicer and informative that is, than saying "Just search".

jaaa

Let me add one more thing that Banshee didn't list and I think is the most important thing of all. Keep a booklet of maintenance with both mileage and date each time you do something to your car(one for each car you own). Receipts get lost and fade. And memory fades most of all(especially for us oldsters). It is also invaluable when you do your own maintenance and have to prove it for warranty work.

wolfy53

All above is great advise. Another thing is to hand wash your car once a week or at the minimum every other week. Really that is 2 times a month. That lets you touch literally every inch of your auto. Lets you see any changes and get a better feel for what you have. Say you notice the left front wheel gets much more brake dust on it. Possible sticking caliper. Just one instance.

Also do the interior at the same time. A quick vacuum and wipe down is all is needed. Once you keep up on this every week or so it won't be a big deal to keep up on it. Super easy. Put some wax or better yet some synthetic wax / sealant on. Carnuba wax realistically only lasts a few weeks. Some good sealants will protect for 6 months to a year. Same thing with the leather. Keep it clean and put a good conditioner on it.

This level of care will get you in tune with your car. You will notice small changes in how it drives and the sounds it makes. Pay attention to how it handles. Does it wonder or grab groves in the road. If it clunks or makes noises. Its time to get it up on jack stands safely and check the components. If you don't know what to look for, basically anything that is loose. Yeah that is generic I know. Go to youtube and search for automotive repair videos Eric the car guy, South main auto repair, even wheeler dealers, there are many others. These guys at least have good videos. And also go find a good mom and pop shop that will let you see what the problem is. If you take it in somewhere and they say "hey you have bad tie rod ends" Simply say "show me". Have them show you what is wrong. Great way to see and learn.

dicer

I agree about keeping some good wax on the paint, and more of a UV protectant cleaner for the interior stuff. I don't see how a conditioner helps the leather since its all coated by essentially paint.

wolfy53

I thought the same thing before. But I do have a buddy that is a huge car nut, more so than me He runs a high end automotive detailing company as well. Even as it is sealed and painted it still breathes. Maybe not the right term... But I have seen peoples cars that aren't cared for and the leather is cracked and dry.

For example:
I have seen in the same exact climate, both cars were the same make and model. My parents car was well cared for, not great but well. Leather cleaned and conditioned. The other car was actually 1 year newer and treated like most people treat their cars. Yeah one of those where you are scared to sit in it due to how filthy it is. Neither cars sat in a garage and neither has window tint. My parents car the leather is still in great shape. My parents car actually has more miles on it. Not a bunch but more. It has aged nicely. The other car. Well the leather is cracked and split and looks awe full.

Both cars are 12 and 13 years old now. Same with the exterior both the same color, black. The exterior of my parents looks great. The other car, most of the clear coat is faded or missing. Looks terrible.

Now that is just one example. Definitely not a full blow scientific test case Way too many variables that none were controlled. This just a simple observation...


Some web sites about this. But the detailing forum http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ is a great resource.

Here is the best explanation I have found as to why clean and condition your leather.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...er-care-2.html


http://www.autogeek.net/leather-car-care.html

Not saying any of these things are right, thats just the way I do it. Just like the outside of my vehicles I like to have my interiors get the same treatment. Maybe some to all of that is just my feeling

What wax do you use? I have had unbelievable results using a product called Zaino. It is a very sharp crisp bright shine to it. Not like the warm glow finish of caruba wax gives. As you can probably tell I'm a nerd when it comes to this stuff. There is nothing like driving a clean shiny well cared for car.

dicer

I'm not a liquid wax person, I like the Mequires High tec yellow paste, and may try the new one they have out. So what is best for the leather seats? I got some Lexus cleaner and conditioner along time ago is it any good? Everyone seems to like Lexol gosh that should work great on a Lexus ???

Banshee365

I would say Connoly is known to be one of the best for really any leather interior. Except the older unsealed King Ranch Fords.

oldskewel

iTrader: (1)

It might be important to not fool yourself into thinking that keeping your car _looking_ good is the same as keeping it running well. But it does help in the bonding process, especially if it's your only car, and definitely if it's your first one.

On a 1992 like the OP has, striving for a perfect appearance may not be time or cost effective. The original question gave no hints of any concern regarding the appearance of the car.

On my 1991 LS400, and most of my cars, I actually tend to spray more water through the wheels to clean the brakes, and under the car to clean the wheel wells and under-engine (so leaks, etc. can be spotted), suspension parts, etc., than I do spraying the painted surfaces. The car is running great, and it looks ... OK. Fine with me. (Also, here in CA, we are transforming into a desert and water conservation is a priority)

Regarding the mechanical advice above ... all good, but like checking most things, after you check 100 times in a row with no problems, you will probably adjust the check frequency accordingly based on common sense. I think that is fine.

For example, checking engine oil every time you get gas? Sure, I might have my butler check it for me, if I had a butler. But even better - these cars have engine oil level sensors and indicators. Mine has gone off a couple of times in my ~10 years of ownership, which has prompted me to check carefully almost immediately. When doing that, I have confirmed that it is extremely accurate - the light starts to flicker when warmed up at freeway speeds, at almost exactly when the oil level (when checked carefully with the dipstick) is closely approaching the lower dipstick mark. Yes, the oil level sensor could fail and then not alert you when the level drops, but if it dropped too far, the oil pressure light would alert you to a problem. The two systems are different enough that it would be unlikely for both faults to happen at the same time. So, knowing all this, I only check oil level when doing related maintenance or in preparing for a long trip.