Rear Lower Control Arm Snapped
10-21-16, 06:52 AM
#16
Yeah possible the upper pivot bushings are on the way out. And notice how those bushing eyes area factory welded on. That is a better picture of the lower arm, and it does have a bunch of rust pitting that could have caused a stress riser that a crack could start at, but still. Why not make it stronger? If you compared those parts to an old 50's chevy these pursuit of perfection parts are very lacking. Now body and paint and rust protection for the body Lexus wins big time. But with power train and suspension component materials and rigidity the old chevy wins. Lexus could have added another 100 or more pounds of stronger materials and better design to the suspension. There is a reason the suspensions do not last long in these cars, it is one of my major gripes about them. That control arm should be a safety recall item, a lot of people could have died if it wasn't for a good driver (you), that is depending on how crowed the road was when it happened. Having an issue at speed with the rear end is the worse thing that can happen. That is why police do that pit maneuver to spin the cars out when chasing them. I've had a front tire blow out years ago the front tire is a better option than the rear to have a problem with .
I'm going to have to check mine out and see if they are similar.
I'm going to have to check mine out and see if they are similar.
This component lasted 21 years without issue or 100% maintenance in the rust belt. I think it was designed and manufactured just fine.
10-21-16, 07:24 AM
#17
" Visual indicators are useless in engineering" Are you an engineer?
So then lexus employed blind engineers to design the suspension components? Sorry that was a funny statement you posted. I'm just wondering why they would used NDT on some of the parts we make, since that is all "Visual". The engineering data is the failed part and the low mile worn out suspension components and proof that accelerated tests don't weed out all the problems that actual time can, so yes its data just like it would be data during and after the accelerated test program was completed. You say the component lasted 21 years, so? There are some old engines that have parts in them that have lasted way over 100 years and are not broke, and they didn't have FEA in those days. And yes same old stress coat is used now as it was back then, and it is totally a VISUAL INDICATOR.
So then lexus employed blind engineers to design the suspension components? Sorry that was a funny statement you posted. I'm just wondering why they would used NDT on some of the parts we make, since that is all "Visual". The engineering data is the failed part and the low mile worn out suspension components and proof that accelerated tests don't weed out all the problems that actual time can, so yes its data just like it would be data during and after the accelerated test program was completed. You say the component lasted 21 years, so? There are some old engines that have parts in them that have lasted way over 100 years and are not broke, and they didn't have FEA in those days. And yes same old stress coat is used now as it was back then, and it is totally a VISUAL INDICATOR.
Last edited by dicer; 10-21-16 at 07:37 AM.
10-23-16, 10:16 AM
#18
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: PA
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i need help
I CANNOT get this stupid bolt out for the life of me. Nut is off. Tried heat, oil, sledge hammer, yelling at it, etc. It will NOT budge. Am I missing something???
Anyway...Yes it is a poor design. My FSAE car probably had a thicker wall on its control arms. Gen 1s have a better design in my opinion.
Can't speak on the wall thickness of the tubing, but the diameter certainly is larger on the replacement.
Anyway...Yes it is a poor design. My FSAE car probably had a thicker wall on its control arms. Gen 1s have a better design in my opinion.
Can't speak on the wall thickness of the tubing, but the diameter certainly is larger on the replacement.
10-23-16, 11:27 AM
#19
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: PA
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think i need to cut this bolt. I need to get this done. I'm going on vacation Wednesday and I need my car. Anyone know the dimension of the camber bolt? Hoping i can get something at parts store.
10-23-16, 02:04 PM
#20
Camber bolts usually have an eccentric and that is needed for adjustment. I agree about the gen 1 design much stronger, shows how advancing in years can sometimes mean a regression in design. Does the bolt turn inside the arm?
10-23-16, 02:12 PM
#21
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: PA
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am able to turn the bolt in a full rotation, but I cannot get the thing to move axially. The bushing on the control arm is preventing me from moving it, I think. Either I can blast it with a ton of heat, and melt the rubber entirely (seems unlikely) or cut the bolt off.
I am trying to source a camber bolt, but am striking out. I can't wait for something to ship.
10-23-16, 02:17 PM
#22
I haven't done anything with those before so not real sure how it is constructed, do those side plates come off? Maybe the bolt needs to be in a certain position to remove it, have you tried that? If it turns freely in the old arm then something else is stopping it.
10-23-16, 02:23 PM
#23
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: PA
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I dont think the bolt needs to be in a special position. It also may be that the bolt is bent inside the bushing sleeve, preventing it from moving. I've been hitting this bolt hard though. Surprised its not moving. Wish I had an air chisel or something of that nature.
10-23-16, 02:34 PM
#24
Have you tried an air or electric impact on the bolt? The constant impact along with pulling/pushing on the arm at various angles might help break the bolt loose from the bushing sleeve. Soaking in PB blaster for a few days (several applications) before hand might help as well.
10-23-16, 04:25 PM
#26
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: PA
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have you tried an air or electric impact on the bolt? The constant impact along with pulling/pushing on the arm at various angles might help break the bolt loose from the bushing sleeve. Soaking in PB blaster for a few days (several applications) before hand might help as well.
10-23-16, 04:47 PM
#27
Okay a thing to try is a thick steel flat bar maybe 1.5 wide by 1/2 or a bit more thick and for length what ever will fit up in that side plate, use a spacer like a big nut on the upper end and put the other end on the stuck bolt, then use a very good c clamp as close to the stuck bolt as possible, tighten the clamp to hopefully push the bolt out. Just trying to figure a way to help ya.
10-23-16, 04:58 PM
#28
The general rule is to beat on what the bolt goes through. I'd take a BFH and go at it right in the center to break it loose.
